Advertisement
Published: October 1st 2009
JYOTIRLINGA TOUR OF AN OLD COUPLE (5)
Dt.9th JULY, 2009 -- THURSDAY
At 7-00 a.m. Shri Shailendra, Pujari Guide met us outside Bhakti Nivas and accompanied us to the Omkareswar Temple. Before entering the temple and on the road leading to the Bridge over Narmada, there was a police barricade. The security man objected to the car proceeding on the road. From that point one has to walk nearly one k.m. to reach the Bridge. When requested to allow the car, the police man stated to obtain permission from the Police Station nearby. My pleas regarding our inability to walk for a k.m. and the pleas of the Pujari Guide have fallen on the deaf ears of the Police Man. His duty consciousness! I went to the Police Station along with the Pujari Guide and obtained permission for the car to proceed on the road. Near the Brdige there was a parking area for the cars. When enquired the Parking attendant regarding the objection of the Security Man, he stated that there are many Lodges near the Bridge and permission will automatically be given to the persons staying in those Lodges and there is no necessity to obtain permission separately from the Police Station. As I stated earlier, some of the Security personnel and the touts make it a point to harass aged Pilgrims one way or the other to show their existence and duty consciousness! When there was a paid parking area and several lodges catering to the needs of pilgrims, I do not see any reason for the Security Man objecting to a private car proceeding on the road.
From the Parking Area, we slowly walked to the temple enjoying the beautiful scenery of the Mandhata Mountain, in the shape of the Hindi Letter ‘Om’, encircled by Narmada River. A part of the river encircling the Mountain is called Kaveri. We have to climb nearly 50 to 60 steps to reach the temple premises. The main pujari who was present there took us directly to the Sanctum Sanctorium and helped us in performing Puja and abhishekam to the Omkareswara Jyotirlingam (all less than 5 minutes) and took us to the Hall adjacent to the Garbhalayam. Of course, there was rush of pilgrims. There he made us to sit and and then recited Sankalpam and Namakam. I requested him to allow me to recite Namakam, Sri Suktam and Purusha Suktam, etc. I did so for half an hour and later the Pujari gave us Prasadam and blessed us with his Aseervachanam. After that I again visited the Jyotirlinga icon and offered my prayers to Omkareswar. The Pujari stated that many a pilgrims perform parikrama to the Omkareswar mountain which will be about 7 km. I paid Dakshina to the Pujari and his brother-guide (Rs.400 to both of them put together). The pujari-guide showed us the caves of Govinda Bhagavatpada and Sri Adi Sankaracharya and from there he took us to the temple of Mammaleswar which is behind Bhakti Nivas, our lodge. After this he took leave from us and left. We spent half an hour in Mammaleswar temple and returned to Lodge by 12-30 p.m. and had lunch in the restaurant attached to the Choultry. In the restaurant while taking lunch we met one Shri Garimella Radhakrishna Kumar Sharma, said to be a retired Telugu Pandit, of Raolapalem village of East Godavari Dt., who is also on pilgrimage along with his wife and two other lady relatives. From Omkareswar he is said to be proceeding to Bombay along with his wife and the other ladies are returning to Hyderabad. He stated that he retired about 6 years back and is spending the retired life visiting punya kshetras. He envied about my visit to punya kshetras in self driving.
In the evening we again visited Mammaleswar temple and spent about two hours reciting stotras, etc. There, the pujaris were preparing parthiva lingas and worshipping in the pradosha kalam. I saw that one of the pujaris prepared more than eleven thousand parthiva lingas - all arranged in a rectangular form. On enquiry one of the pujaris stated that now and then they prepare parthiva lingas and after worshipping merge the same in the river. Most of the time they worship the parthiva lingas on their own and occasionally on sponsoring by devotees. This is the first time I witnessed preparation and worship of parthiva lingas and I determined to attempt sahasra parthiva lingacharna at home on return from the pilgrimage. I have a book in my house detailing the method of preparation, arrangement of lingas and worship of sahasra lingas.
We again met Shri Garimella Radhakrishna Kumar Sarma in the restaurant during dinner time. After dinner, he visited our room along with his wife and other relatives. During the course of conversation, he stated that Shri Chaganti Koteswara Rao and Shri Garikipati Narasimharao are his friends (who are now popular for their purana pravachanams in T.V., etc.). He further stated that after the age of 50 years, Goddess Sarasvati suddenly blessed Shri Koteswararao and Shri Narasimharao with dharana sakti and in making them deliver purana pravachanams in such an excellent way. While departing, he stated that his wife is sick and is suffering from severe joint pains and requested me whether I would be able to drop them near Bus Stand next day morning at 5 a.m., from where they will go to railway station-(Omkareswar Road Railway Station is at a distance of 12 km) in an auto. Service Autos ply between Bus Stand and Rly.Station and they will not come upto Bhakti Nivas. From Bhakti Nivas to Bus Stand is about 1 k.m., and transportation would not be available and one has to go by walk only. I told him that I will drop them in my car and requested them to be ready by 5 a.m. with their luggage.
10th July, 2009 - Friday.
By 5-00 a.m. they were ready and I dropped them near the Bus Stand. Mr. Radha Krishna Kumar Sarma and their family profusely thanked me for this small help. After returning to the Room, I had an idea that we should go to the bathing ghat and should have a dip in Narmada River. My wife expressed her inability to climb down the steps near the River and discouraged me also to go there. But I strongly wished to have a dip in the Holy Waters of River Narmada which is the birth place for Shiva Saligramams, worshipped in several of temples throughout India and several houses of Siva Bhaktas, and proceeded to the bathing ghat in the car. The bathing ghat is not a convenient place for old and disabled pilgrims. Some how, slowly stepping down, I entered the River and had three dips in the Holy Waters. When I returned to the steps, I found that my Yajnopaveetham has gone into the River while taking dips. I immediately felt whether it was a sign for me to renunciate and spend the rest of the life in the worship of God. But of course, so many permissions are necessary for this act which will not be forth-coming and so on return to the Room, I had taken a new Jandhyam which is available in my puja bag. After performing daily puja and Sata Gayatri, We decided to leave Omkareswar and proceed to the next Jyotirlinga Kshetram Ujjaini. The famous Ujjaini Kshetram, the abode of Lord Maha Kaleswar, Matha Bhadrakali, and Kala Bhairav is at a distance of 135 k.m from Omkareswar. After breakfast in the restaurant, we departed Bhakti Nivas at 9-30 a.m. and reached Ujjaini via Indore by 2-00 p.m. We have not entered Indore City and proceeded to Ujjaini through bye-pass road.
In Omkareswar we were advised that Ujjaini Mahakaleswar Devasthanam Dharmasala provides excellent accommodation and we can stay there. We directly went to the Dharmasala which is adjacent to the Mahakaleswar temple. At the reception, it is informed that no independent rooms are available and there is accommodation only in dormitory room with beds. The receptionist informed that all independent rooms were booked by reservation. I met the Administrator of Dharmasala (Mr.Bhatnagar) and introduced myself and requested for a double room. After enquiry he stated that one A.C.room(Rs.400 per day) is available and he offered me that room for one day. I requested him to provide the room at least for two days and he stated that he will consider later. I entered the room which is in ground floor and had lunch in the Dharmasala itself. The Dharmasala provides free lunch to all pilgrims till 2 pm every day.
After taking rest for an hour, we decided to proceed to the temple. At the reception I enquired about the procedure to witness ‘Bhasma Harati’ next day early morning. The receptionist informed that only limited number of persons (about 250 persons) will be allowed to witness Bhasma Harati which starts at 3 a.m. every day and prior permission is to be obtained from the Administrator of the temple; as next day happens to be Saturday there would be heavy rush for Bhasma Harati and the receptionist informed me to try my luck in the office of the Temple Administrator. I immediately proceeded to the Office of the Temple Administrator. The clerk informed me that required number of permissions for the next day were already over as there were more pilgrims. I met the Superintendent and requested him to provide me an opportunity to witness Bhasma Harati as we are only two people. He took a requisition slip from me and sent me to the Administrator. I met the Administrator and requested for permission for two of us. He graciously accorded permission and directed the clerk to issue the token. The tokens to witness Bhasma Harati will be issued without charging any fee to all pilgrims. Bhasma Harati is a speciality in this temple. The Bhasmam collected from the Burial Ground every day is used in the Harati to the Mahakaleswar everyday early morning. Then we leisurely had the darshan of Lord Mahakaleswar and spent upto 7 p.m. in the temple itself.
After coming out of the temple premises, as it is not yet dark, I had an idea to visit Bhadrakali temple. I negotiated with an auto driver for Rs.120 for taking us to Bhadrkali temle and drop us again at Dharmasala. We proceeded to Bhadrakali temple and witnessed evening Harati. At time of our visit, there were about ten telugu ladies reciting Lalita Sahasranamam. They were all part of a tourist bus pilgrims. We had the feeling that we are standing at a place where once Mahakavi Kalidas, Bhatti Vikramaditya and Bhojaraj might have stood and witnessed Harati to Bhadrakali. From there the auto driver took us to Kala Bhairava temple which is nearby where we witnessed Kala Bhairava drinking half of the whisky offered to him in a plate. The speciality of Kala Bhairava statue is that Whisky or Brandy is offered as Naivedyam and the statue drinks half of the same. Similar to Panakala Narasimhaswamy at Mangalagiri. We returned to the Dharmasala by 8-30 p.m. and after dinner retired to Bed as we have to get up by 2 a.m., to be ready to go to Mahakaleswar temple for witnessing Bhasma Harati.
HISTORY OF UJJAINI MAHAKALESWAR AND BHADRAKALI TEMPLES
Mahakaleswar of Ujjain is one of the twelve celebrated Jyotirlingas in India. The glory of Mahakaleswar has been vividly descried in various puranas. Many Sanskrit Poets including Mahakavi Kalidas eulogised this temple in their Kaavyams. Ujjain is treated as centre point of the calculation of the Indian time and Lord Mahakaleswar was considered as the distinctive presiding deity of Ujjain. The Tropic of Cancer passes through Ujjain. And hence astronomically also the place gains importance. The Mahakaleswar, the Destroyer of the Universe, dominates the life of the city and its people even in the midst of the busy routine of modern preoccupations, and provides an unbreakable link with past traditions. The Mahakaleswar Jyotirlingam is Swayambhu Lingam, deriving Shakti from within itself as against the other images and lingams which are ritually established and invested with Mantra-Shakti and Prana Pratishtapana. All Jyotirlingams derive Shakti from within themselves. The Jyotirlingam is worshipped throughout India as it symbolises Shiva’s incarnate power on earth.
BHASMA HARATI - A SPECIALITY IN UJJAINI
One of the rituals performed in this temple is the Bhasma Harati that involves smearing the Jyotirlingam with hot ashes from the burning cremation grounds. Shiva is believed to dwell in cremation grounds, and the ash smearing ceremony is a homage to the Destroyer of the Universal himself. This form of worship is symbolic of Death and Life being inseparable, an idea that is inherent to most of the Hindu Schools of thought. The Mahakaleswar temple is located near a lake (tirtha Pushkarini); it has five levels, one of which is underground. The original temple was destroyed during Muslim invasions, a common feature to all Hindu Temples in India, and the present temple was rebuilt recently by the Sindhias in the traditional Central Indian style. Above the level of Mahakaleswar temple, a temple for Omkareshwar was also there. In Omkareswar, above the level of Omkareswar temple, a temple for Mahakaleswar is there. The temple is located in a spacious courtyard surrounded by massive walls. Opposite Sanctum Sanctorium a very big hall is constructed where nearly 250 people can sit and witness in minute detail the Worship Karyakramam going on in the Sanctum Sanctorium. Besides, focussing a camera directly on the Jyotirlinga Icon, T.Vs are installed on all sides which provide an excellent view of every ritual performed to the Jyotirlingam.
MAHAKALESWAR ICON
BHADRA KALIKA TEMPLE
Ujjain is also famous for Bhadra Kali temple. Gadkalika or Garh Kalika or Bhadra Kali temple is situated about two miles from the Mahakaleswar temple. The deity in this temple is believed to have been worshipped by Mahakavi Kalidasu. The
legend goes that he was an idiot and it is by his devotion to Goddess Kalika, that he acquired great knowledge and skills in Sanskrit literature’
GADKALIKA OR BHADRA KALI TEMPLE IN UJJAIN.
SANDIPANI GURUKULAM.
Ujjain is famous for Sandipani Maharshi Gurukulam where Lord Krishna, Balaram and the famous devotee Kuchela (Sudama) of Dwapara Yugam studied. The Gurukula Ashramam is situated on the banks of River Kshipra.
11th July, 2009 - SATURDAY
We got up early at 1-00 a.m. itself and prepared for visiting Bhasma Harati. All pilgrims visiting Bhasma Harati are to be gathered in a Hall in front of the Dharmashala by 2-30 p.m. and gates are opened by 3-00 a.m. We are ready and are in front of the gate by 2-30 p.m. The gates were opened by 3-00 a.m., and all the pilgrims rushed to the temple premises. We slowly walked to the temple and entered the Hall before the Sanctum Sanctorium and comfortably sat witnessing the Panchamrita Abhishekam and Decoration of the Jyotirlinga Icon. Namakam, Chamakam, Purusha Suktam are recited during the course of Abhishekam and the icon was beautifully decorated drawing the facial features on the icon with Chandanam, etc. The Abhishekam and decoration continued for a period of one and half hours i.e, from 3-00 a.m. to 4-30 a. m. I also participated in the Abhishekam by reciting Namakam and Purusha Suktam a number of times. Then the Bhasma Harati started. There are different priests for conducting Abhishekam, Alankarana and for Bhasma Harati. After Alankarana, the icon was covered with a cloth and then smearing of Smasana Bhasmam started. The Bhasmam is sprinkled on the icon through a thin cloth, in the background of playing Dhamarukam, tal and other musical instruments. For a part of Bhasma Abhishekam lights were put off focussing the light on the icon only. An atmosphere of Pramatha Ganams dancing before Lord Eswara is created with the back ground music of playing various instruments and recitation of Shiva Strotras. This continued upto 5-00 a.m. All the pilgrims are in a trance feeling that they are all part of Shiva Pramatha Ganams participating in the worship of the Lord Maha Kaleswar. This is really a wonderful experience for the devotees.
After Bhasma Abhishekam and Harati, regular abhishekams and darshanams in the Sanctum Sanctorium started. With the help of Security Personnel, we directly entered the Sanctum Sanctorium and twice performed Abhishekam to the icon reciting the important anuvakam of Namakam and with holy water - courtesy the priests and the security man even in the midst of rush of pilgrims. We slowly came out of the Sanctum Sanctorium and spent another hour in the temple premises reciting our daily puja strotrams and visiting the other temples in the compound such as the temple of Omkareswar, Navagraha Mantapam, the temple of Hanuman, etc.
We returned to the Dharmasala at 7-00 a.m. and after breakfast, we started for visiting other places in Ujjain in an Auto. We visited the following temples and places:
(1) Bada Ganeshji Mandir which is opposite the Dharmasala.
(2) The Sandipani Ashramam
(3) Mangalnath Temple (temple for Angaraka graham).
(4) Bhatruhari and Matsyendra nath caves - we have to go down through 80 steps to visit the caves. Bhatruhari is the cousin brother of King Vikra Maditya, who renunciated and spent life as an yogiswara.
(5) Harasiddhi Matha temple (Annapurna icon between Mahalakshmi and Maha Sarasvati.
(6) Chintamani Ganesh temple
(7) Vedha Shala - the astronimacal observatory.
(8) The Chardham temple.
(9) Siddhavatam - A large banyan tree on the banks of Kshipra River where pitru tarpanams and panda pradanams for ancestors are performed.
We returned to Dharmasala by 12 noon and after lunch took rest in the Room.
OM TAT SAT OM TAT SAT OM TAT SAT
RAGHAVARAO U.V.G.V. DUGGIRALA
HYDERABAD, Dt.27th August, 2009.
Advertisement
Tot: 0.234s; Tpl: 0.014s; cc: 9; qc: 48; dbt: 0.1803s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.2mb
Venkat
non-member comment
Clarification
Dear Mr. RahavaRao Garu, It was really nice to see such a wonderful travellogue written by you. I had my doubts while reading this blog whether you are really old or not! I'am also planning for a trip to Ujjain in December and wish to know more details regarding the Basma Harati permissions. If you can provide with any phone numbers or contact details to get a prior approval for this darshan, it would be really great help. Waiting to listen from you. Regards Venkat 9866504206