In search of the Golden Fleece

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July 7th 2006

Published: August 12th 2007

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His Dudeness

Batumi

Church of the Virgin Mary

Like Jason and his Argonauts in times past I went to Georgia to seek out the Golden Fleece... Unlike Jason I wasn't successful but I did find a country full of very hospitable people who enjoy feasting and who will take very well care of their guests! I also found the last Stalin fans in the world... He lives on in Gori his birthplace!!

I entered Georgia at Batumi which is the country's main seaside resort... It's full of charming run down buildings from the turn of the century... Near by is Gonio a more or less intact Roman fortress.

After this I went to Kutaisi, the second city of Georgia and what is thought to be the town where Jason found the Golden Fleece. I stayed with Giorgi and his family who took good care of me. From here I went to Gelati monastery which was and is a very important religious centre. After getting some advice from Giorgi I decided to go to Svaneti, a region in the Caucasus Mountains. Mestia is the biggest town here. After an entertaining 9 hour ride in old soviet busses and some great scenery along the way I arrived in Mestia

Batumi

Roman Fortress of Gonio outside Batumi

in the evening and couldn't find a place to stay. But than Udo and his family took me in and gave me food and wine and vodka! I had many a toast, which means I was downing a lot of wine and vodka (after a toast you are expected to down your glass). Svaneti is a very beautiful region where every home has it's own defensive tower!

Than I had to rush back to Turkey to see how my visa for Iran was going and to my great joy I got it!!

So after that I went back into Georgia and stayed in Akhaltsikhe from where I visited Vardzia a cave complex not unlike Cappadocia in Turkey.

And yesterday I went to Gori and looked at the sights around it and of course I went to the Stalin museum! Got a guided tour with a suitably KGB'esque guide who never smiled and looked like she wanted to kill me... I had many a toast on Stalin with my host and taxi driver. Yes they still love him here! I toasted to Stalin with wine and to Putin with beer (you only toast your enemy's with beer and