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Published: February 22nd 2015
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They say... we should not speak about this place, let's keep it for us....I tell them...don't worry, with the mess in Russia, this place is not going to see serious investments any time soon....Welcome to Gudauri, the best ski secret on earth....by far! (Disclaimer at the end of this entry)!
Gudauri is 120km North of Tbilisi....so a pretty easy access. Gudauri is also next door, or rather next mountain to South Oscetia...and it's only 6 years ago since the last fights happened between South Oscetia and Georgia. Gudauri is also just 30km south of the Russian border...and yes, just 190km from Grozny too. If you are young you won't remember...but if you do, you remember...Tchetchenia! Not long ago!
So Gudauri today is pretty interesting...while Russia and Ukraine are not friends anymore....in Gudauri, Russians and Ukrainians ski the same tracks! Warning, if you do not like Ukrainians or Russians, this is not the place for you. But if you know me...well....you know...
So from the hostel, we took the metro to Didube Metro station. Slight issue about Georgia, you won't find much accurate info in English on the net...so it can look a
little adventurous. I love this, for once! There is 120km to Didube...and after negotiating a little, we paid 25usd for private taxi ride....no kidding!
I wasn't sure where to sleep in Gudauri....there is not a lot of choice, specially if you do not speak Russian or Georgian! Some basic homestays look like ridiculously expensive...same thing for basic hotels...so for two nights, we went to what is officially the best, the Marco Polo hotel. Looking brand new....swimming pool, Jacuzzi, very nice staff. A great 3-4 stars hotel by any worldwide standard, they call it five! Only low point, it's half-board automatically, and the dinner was really not the best buffet I ever seen....good we had proper breakfasts ever morning! And the Jacuzzi was more than welcome after few hours on the slope!
So you are going to ask...and the ski? Well, you already saw the pictures! We did three days....first one in pure sun...next two, in pure snow...
The slopes are between 2000 and 3300 meters altitude, we skied mainly between 2000 and 3000 meters. Gudauri is surrounded by peaks reaching 4000 meters, and the top one in the area is just
above 5000 meters...so trust me, they have snow....a lot of it!
The damages....we paid 210usd....ready...this is for 3 days skiing, including equipment...for 3 of us...total! Yes, that's less than 25usd per day per person. I know I do this with two teenagers, but trust me, I though Lebanon was cheap...this is insane....13usd ski pass per day....no...serious! Oh, a huge hotdog on the slope is less than 3usd, a bottle of soft drink is 1usd....and the list goes one! I don't drink vodka on the slopes....neither at home!
If you want to spend money, you can...there is paragliding, minimum 75usd a 20 minutes flight....still pretty cheap compare to Europe. But wait, Gudauri is with Canada, one of the world capital of Heliski....yes...you jump in an helicopter....to go to ski all day long on your own mountain. Good news...I'm not a huge fan of off-track skiing....damage would be, 550 euros a day per person...told you, you can blow it if you want!
People here are very nice, they are cold, and keep for themselves....so don't expect a hello...or a smile.... This could be simply summarizing the place. But the last afternoon of skiing,
Tiffany had the great idea to miss a turn....and she landed in a pool of snow....so it took us a good 30 minutes to find her second ski. But Andrei, from Russia...stopped and give us a serious hand. Cold people....but nice people! Thanks Andrei! Another day, I needed some info about where we were....a guy stopped...great English speaking. I asked him where he was from...answer...Ukraine....my answer, ok, but that's a big country...where about....he told me, Crimea! So I smiled...we all know what happened to Crimea this year....so I replied with a simple....sad, I still haven't done Kazantip...and I received the biggest smile ever! My way of doing politics! If you don't understand, google Kazantip!
People here may seem tough, or simply rough...and what about the slopes? Well, their green would be a blue in Europe...an their blues....most of them deserve a nice "red" stamping. So this place is not really for beginners....better if you have some practice ahead. Point of warning too....why would they need to provide nets, or sign posting for the slopes...and why really should we have somebody next to you when you get on a chair lift...so small warning...knows what you do...before you reach
this amazing ski place!
So if Russians or Ukrainians are not your cup of tea...don't come here. But they are my cup of tea. Average age around is in the early thirties, and most of these people ski pretty well....really fun. We had also few expats around, from Kiev...or Dubai. I also met a senior guy from Austria...and I asked him...why do you come here...answer was simple...young man, for the heliski, nothing else, this place is amazing! Next warning...not everybody wears a helmet here....but few carry guns...and you can see those...no kidding! I still love the place, even with teenagers!
Put is simply, with flights from Europe starting at just above 220 euros, if you come from London, Frankfurt, Amsterdam or Paris, five days of skiing here is cheaper than skiing in the Alps...and for sure, way less crowded...with some nice wine, brandy or vodka on top of it!
Our first day, we had some amazing sun....and we spent time skiing...and skiing...and skiing till the last chairlifts closed. Sadly they tend to stop pretty early here (an hour ahead of sunset)...would it be to avoid to have too many people on
vodka using the tracks? Smile! Next two days...lots of snow! On the second day, in the morning, we ended up skiing in knee high powder snow...on the tracks. I'm not a big fan of off-track...but from time to time, a not groomed slope can be a lot of fun! Slightly slower to ski, way more difficult to find our way...and landing from time to time in a meter of snow....because you cannot see a meter in front of you....can be pretty fun!
This obviously, till Tiffany decided to miss a turn, landed in snow deeper than her size...and that we had no idea where was her second ski. Snow digging for a ski, a first for me too! Took us a good 30 minutes, and one more time, thanks to Andrei!
On our way back, we took the local minibus...that's a full 3.5usd per person for the two hours ride back to Tbilisi!
Next time, because there is a next time, the plan may be to rent an apartment for few days, to make this place a truly cheap one....to eat pelmenis in the evening (and way more nice local delicacies)...and
to bring with me some gorgeous company who speaks Russian...and Ukrainian! We all have the right to smile!
Disclaimer: So little fun fact, as of today, I have had the chance and pleasure to ski in...USA, Argentina, Chile, Dubai (yes, many times...), Lebanon, France, Switzerland (I know...that's it in Europe...for now! Belgium doesn't count!), Australia, New Zealand, Japan and Korea. Still to come in 2015...South Africa...if there is snow...no kidding...and Canada....finally on the slopes! Than later...Iran, Morocco....for sure one day...China, Kazakhstan...well, maybe...India... once the infrastructure improves....and yes.... later on Austria, Slovenia, Slovakia, Ukraine, Bulgaria, Spain, Andorra and even Germany...and maybe Norway too....
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D MJ Binkley
Dave and Merry Jo Binkley
Ski, ski, ski
Fantastic