Qiaotou

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Day 9

Qiaotou in the Gorge

Qiaotou is a small dirty town at the foot of the Tiger Leaping Gorge on the route up to Tibet and Shangri La. This is on the Road 214, which has always been a major trade route between China and Tibet, trading tea to the North and horses to the South. Now it is large red 8 wheeler lorries, driven by lunatic young Tibetans who sit on their air horns, bringing Yak meat South and all manner of goods North. We are in the Yixiang Hotel which seems just a little bit better than when I was here last with a clean, newly decorated room but with a wardrobe door leant against a wall. The journey out of Lijiang was a bit dusty and busy with a large hill to climb to about 2,800m before a nice sweeping descent to the Yangtze. On the way down we stopped when we saw a car neatly wedged on its side in the concrete ditch. We looked inside to make sure the driver was still not in when we heard a shout from above. It was the driver up on the banking waiting for a breakdown truck and looking in good health, so off we went. After lunch we headed north following the river and with a nice tail wind. The river at this point is very wide and a pale brown colour like the surrounding soil, spoilt to some extent by excavation for stone and sand for brick and concrete block manufacture. The new road north is also still ongoing up as far as the Iron Bridge across to,the West side of the river, which is adding to the quarrying, dust and general upheaval in the area. The road in some places is abysmal where the construction traffic have worn it away and where temporary diversions are in place. This is not like the UK. Irene fell off today on a piece of generally good tarmac road after she hit the only pothole for a mile at least. Luckily Angus was with her and he administered first aid and put a small wound dressing on her knee. She had bruising as well but bravely carrie on to the hotel. Today has been more like a preparation for joining the Rough Stuff Fellowship. Tomorrow will be no better on the road past the Tiger Leaping Gorge.

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