China 2013 Day 14

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The Victoria cruise line we are on is a family-run business based in New York. Each of the boats is named after a female member of the family, and ours is called the Victoria Jenna.

The Yangzi River, at 6300 km the 3rd longest river in the world, is one of the two major rivers of China, along with the Yellow River. The Three Gorges stretch of the river is revered in Chinese culture and immortalized in Chinese song, poetry and art. The Three Gorges dam project, begun in 1997? and now 95% complete, is, according to the Chinese, the largest engineering project ever undertaken. It is certainly the world's largest hydroelectric power generation project. The secondary reason for the dam is to tame the devastating floods that used to yearly ravage the area.

Depending on whom you ask, the Three Gorges dam project is either one of mankind's greatest feats or greatest ecological disasters. Both are arguably true. The dam has certainly had a huge impact on the Gorges, raising the water level some 170 m upstream of the dam. Our route starts in Chongqing, takes us downstream to the dam, through the locks of the dam to the other side, and ends in Yichang.

We wake up at 6:30, a little groggy from the night before. In the night, the ship has docked at Fengdu. We enjoy the buffet breakfast on board, which offers both Chinese and North American fare. After breakfast, there's an excursion up Ming Mountain, home of the so-called "ghost city." A lot of climbing up ancient stairs is involved, so Violet opts out.

Fengdu is one of the many cities that has been relocated above the rising waters. It is now across the river from where it originally stood. The original city is completely under water except for the "ghost city" that stood on the cliff above the city and which remains perched on Ming Mountain.

For centuries, this ghost city was regarded as the place where spirits went after death to be judged and sentenced either to reincarnation or to torment for their sins. It consists of a long series of Buddhist and Taoist temples strung up the mountain. Unfortunately, all save one were destroyed during the cultural revolution. In recent years, every one has been pain-staking restored. The sole remaining original temple is the one sitting on the very top of the mountain, presided over by the King of Hell, poised to pass final judgment on the destiny of your soul.

Our guide Merry explains many of the rituals that have come to be associated with each temple. One of the recurring themes is choice; for example, pray to this Buddha for long life, this one for happiness, or this one for wealth, but you have to chose; chose one of three bridges with similar significations, etc.

The recreated temples and statuary are stunning. It strikes me that we are seeing the site the way it looked to its original creators: new with vivid colours. When we view antiquities, we necessarily see them weathered and blemished by the passage of many years or centuries, so it's enlightening to remember that they once were new.

Among the many, many things to see, one highlight for me was the 18 demon statues ensconced along both sides of a long staircase, each one ready to torture you for a particular sin. The statue for promiscuity was a particularly fetching demon, who would seduce you, then disembowel and behead you. That'll teach you to get fresh.

Once back at the bottom, we endure the long gauntlet of storekeepers. I buy a panda t-shirt (asking price 90¥, negotiated down to 30¥) and a pink pummelo for Vi.

After lunch, we enjoy an excellent presentation on the Yangzi and the Three Gorges by a charming young man whose English name (intriguingly) is Luther.

Our afternoon is free. I try to catch up with the blog, and occasionally watch the unfolding scenery. It is growing more and more foggy and more difficult to see much on the shore. There are certainly lots of commercial ships of various sizes going both up and down the river, carrying all kinds of cargo, from gravel to new automobiles.

In the evening, there is a welcome reception with drinks and appetizers hosted by our Captain Lee. Luther is the interpreter. Then it's off to dinner. As part of our upgrade package, we get à la carte service for supper in the "executive" dining room. It's too bad we are separated from our friends, but it's lonely at the top and the special menus and bottomless glasses of wine help ease the pain. My entrée selection is rack of lamb (!), which turns out to be just two chops, but still tasty.

Later in the evening, there is a "Chinese Dynasties" show, featuring colorful costumes and energetic dancing.

After the show, Vi and I descend to steerage to mingle with the hoi poloi. One of the peasants has offered his room as a gathering place. We drink a fair bit (I contribute my scotch) and have a grand time. The finale is a couple of rounds of "bijo," distilled Chinese liquor. After that we stumble off to our respective beds.

Much talk today about the Tianamen Square incident, especially since random tourists were injured. Not too many days ago we were standing at that exact spot.

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