The Land of Limestone

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As we approached Guilin rock formations mushroomed out of the land. We saw an even stranger sight, Chinese cyclists wearing helmets! Two days later, riding next to the famous Li jiang river, we met an American and a Chinese English teacher, also riding bicycles. They were a little concerned that we were taking the back road to Xingping, as we had not had lunch. Apparently there was nowhere on route to get food. So Bob (the English teacher) approached a shop owner at the small village just before the turn off and asked him if we could cook at his place!
He closed up his small shop and led us to his home. Then Bob cooked for us a delicious but simple meal of noodles with egg and spring onion. Bob had not cooked in 5 years, preferring to eat with his in-laws, but now showed that when necessary he still could. During proceedings, piglets, chickens, and a small puppy had to intermittently be chased out of the cooking area. The cooking area consisted of a covered area with a concrete floor, with the wok mounted just off the ground on a gas element.
So by the time we got back on the road an hour or so later, our stomachs were suitably full of carbohydrates, a good thing too as the next 37km were on a rough dirt road through the mountains.
The rocky limestone protrusions that the area is so famous for wrapped around us and then unfolded in spectacular formations. Mandarin trees, heavily loaded with fruit, competed with jagged rocks for ground space.
Eventually we emerged at Xingping, where the road rejoined the river next to a stunning mountain vista. In the morning having declined the offer to have our bikes put on bamboo rafts or tuk tuks, we opted instead to ride the short 27km to Yangshuo. Yangshuo’s lively town was quite unlike the China we have come to know, having lost its innocence due to mass tourism. Its’ European style shops and cafes no doubt offer an antidote to those needing a break from Chinese food, but as it was our last day in mainland China, we consumed only Chinese food (delicious braised pumpkin, spring beans, and fried vegetable dumplings). Hong Kong, with all its’ trappings, awaits!

Dec 1
Longsheng to Guilin 92km (one pass climb in morning, head winds, otherwise easy going, good road and quiet. Nice mountain scenery entering Guilin and wide bicycle lanes to navigate the city).
Hotel 132
1 flat tyre Nigel front
Food and drink 146

Total = 276
Euro = 25.76

Dec 2
Rest day Guilin
Hotel 132
Food and drink 52.7
DVDs 24
Donation 10
Bike parts (new helmet for Nig, stand and chain for Sonya) 160

Total = 378.7
Euro = 35

Dec 3
Rest day Guilin
Hotel 132
Food and drink 125
Massage 25

Total = 282
Euro = 26

Dec 4
Guilin to Xingping 89km (missed turn off to Xing ping and had to back track 10km, meaning ride actual distance should only have been 69km)
Last 37km on a dirt road, very beautiful scenery.
Met an American and Chinese English teacher, had lunch with them in a small village before turning off onto gravel road.
1 flat tyre Nigel front
Hotel 40
Food and drink 81

Total = 121
Euro = 11.5

Dec 5
Xingping to Yangshou - 27km
Night bus to Shenzen 460 for 2 persons and 2 bicycles.
Food and drink 100
Souvenirs 40
Laundry 20

Total = 620
Euro = 58

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