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Published: December 3rd 2007
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Dinner for tonight
Bamboo rat being prepared for the pot We passed out of Miao territory and into Dong territory, eventually emerging back on the tourist trail at Zhaoxing. Dong woman wear a slightly understated version of the Miao traditional dress, the hemp with indigo dye is still used, but with less decoration. Here in Zhaoxing, the village resounded with hammering, not only were many new wooden buildings springing up amongst the age old ones, but hemp for traditional clothing was being beaten until it developed a sheen.
Away from the picturesque drum towers and bridges of Zhaoxing were narrow back alleys. In one I discovered a man blow torching rats in preparation for cooking them! The process of blow torching them removes their hairs. He proudly held up one for me to examine.
A final day of exquisite riding led us back to the main 321 highway, but we could hardly believe this was actually the road on our map. It was narrow and un-surfaced, awaiting upgrading. We were bumped and tossed around on river rock for the final 18km of our ride, which passed through a valley with a slow flowing river, surrounded by green vegetation, and jagged rocky protrusions. Surely it will be a stunning ride
when complete. As it was the scenery just made up for the rigours of the road. Things were only to deteriorate the next day. The scenery remained beautiful, but road construction had stepped up a phase and cliffs were being carved away by diggers in order to widen the road. The cliffs were made up of a kind of red clay which coated us and especially every time a car or truck passed and stirred up a storm of the stuff. When we stopped in a village we managed to buy dust masks which at least meant not quite so much of it was getting into our mouths and noses!
The following day we began to see the benefit of all the works completed to date, for much of the ride we had a newly constructed road to ride upon. Road building is carried out using many more manual techniques than we would see in the west. Sadly we saw some victims of China’s progress. Horses, often overloaded and with crude equipment, carry rocks dredged out of the river up to the new road, to form part of its surface. The dejected horses had severe open saddle sores. This
saddened us. Unfortunately the workers who are tending the horses are probably also almost slaves to the new road, living on low wages in poor working conditions.
By contrast, when we see working animals that belong to small family farmers, the animals usually appear healthy, so it is not a reflection on animal welfare standards in general. One of the most touching scenes we have observed is the relationship that Chinese farmers have with their ducks. The ducks are carried in a bamboo basket down to a rice paddy. The rice paddy is under water, and so is just the kind of conditions a duck likes. The ducks spend time paddling around here until the farmer gathers them back up to take back home for the night. I think this is possible because the ducks are hand raised and therefore very tame.
Nov 22 Day 219
Maogong to Liping 42.5km
Hotel 30
Laundry 20
Food and drink 118
Map 5
Other 6
Total = 179
Euro = 17
Nov 23 Day 220
Rest day Liping
Hotel 30
Food and drink 60
Internet 4
Total = 94
Euro = 9
Nov 24 Day 221
Rest day Liping (Nig unwell)
Hotel 30
Souvenir embroidery 9
Food and drink 80
Total = 119
Euro = 11
Nov 25 Day 222
Rest day Liping
Hotel 30
Food and drink 110
Laundry 20
Shoes 108
Watch 18
Internet 12
DV tapes x 2 40
Total = 338
Euro = 31.5
Nov 26 Day 223
Liping to Zhaoxing 73.5km 2 pass climbs, both short and steep.
Hotel 50
Food and drink 103
Internet 1
Shoes 30
Bike pump 15
Total = 199
Euro = 18.5
Nov 27 Day 224
Zhaoxing to Diping + 20km on Highway 321 59km
Road from Zhaoxing to Diping very beautiful and quiet and in excellent condition. Started with 6km climb from 350m Zhaoxing to 710m pass, then descended for the rest of the day to 115m. Road 321 in very poor condition, very slow going.
1 flat tyre Nigel front
Hotel 40
Food and drink 120
Total = 160
Euro = 15
Nov 28 Day 225
Highway 321 to Sanjiang 42km
Road under construction, coated in red dust by passing vehicles, needed dust masks and extremely rough and slow going. When completed will make a fantastic
ride as scenery is fabulous.
Hotel 70
Food and drink 125
Sunglasses 5
Total = 200
Euro = 18.5
Nov 29 Day 226
Rest day Sanjiang - visited Chenyang wind and rain bridge by bus.
Hotel 70
Sunscreen 54
Food and drink 67
Entrance to wind and rain bridge 45
Souvenirs 204
Internet 8
Total = 440
Euro = 41
Nov 30 Day 227
Sanjiang to Longsheng 60km (partly on new road, partly still under construction). Flat and scenic ride.
Hotel 50
Food and drink 81.5
Hairdresser 85
Donation 15
Total = 231.5
Euro = 21.5
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fabian
non-member comment
uhhhh
uhhh yumm......... not!!