Shanwei #2: Honghaiwan

---

Up and off to Honghaiwan (红海湾), which means Red Bay in English. Quite the pretty name. I had originally wanted to stay in this area, but couldn't find out if the hotel I wanted to stay at accepted foreigners and so decided to make my life easier and stay near the train station as I was only in Shanwei for two nights and didn't want to have to schlepp too far with all my stuff. I miss travelling light. Hopefully, I can correct that for my next trip. I first took the bus to the train station, which was quick as I didn't have to wait long and the journey is really quick too. Here I had to change buses to the 116, which I found no problem. The river was on the bus taking a break, so I got on, scanned my bus QR code and sat down to enjoy the air conditioning while waiting for us to depart. A couple of young girls got on not long after me. Just before we were about to depart the bus driver asked us where we were going to make sure we were on the right bus I presume. The two young women translated for me to the driver that I was on the right bus. This bus journey was about half an hour. There wasn't much to see on the journey as we just passed through a pretty rural area with some small roads leading off to the odd house or two. The bus terminated at the back of the Tourist Information Centre and I didn't really have a clue where to go or what to see. The beach seemed to be in pretty much a straight line so I walked down what I took to be the main street. I have to say I wasn't too impressed with the area and was glad that I had ended up staying closer to the station. The street had a bit of a grotty beach town vibe to it. The road was narrow and fairly choked with cars, crappy looking restaurants with touts and small shops lined it, and there were public bins every so often that were pretty ripe.

I came to the beach area and found that you had to pay to enter. I find this to be a good sign as it generally means the beach is well kept and with a lot less litter. I was able to buy my ticket with minimal fuss on WeChat and headed to the turnstiles to scan my QR code. It wouldn't work and the bloke told me to adjust the brightness on my phone and hey presto it worked. The first part was pretty grotty, it looked like a tatty abandoned looking building. The beach was on the opposite side and I headed past some statues and painted stones to reach the sand. The beach wasn't too big, as in it wasn't too wide but it did stretch quite a way along. However, everyone was clustered in one spot. It was a bit of a strange place as looking out to sea, there was some kind of warship (in my uneducated opinion) just chilling a few hundred metres off the coast and what looked like some kind of military base at the end of the beach with what I think was some kind of radar equipment. I took a bit of a walk along the beach, it was nicer way from the horde, and I enjoyed watching the waves coming in. I could also see around the bay and there was something at the end of the bay. I looked to see if it was accessible from here, but it looked like you had to walk around and through the town. I only walked a little way further as further along it looked like it might have been closed off like the beaches in Sanya had been by the military for their use. There was also some buildings just behind that beach that were falling apart, I think they were being torn down. I wondered what they had been. As I was walking along some fighter jets flew overhead making quite the noise. There must be an air base nearby. They had the prefect day for it as the sky was a beautiful shade of blue. I walked back along the beach and headed over to the other side. I found a map which showed me that there were two beaches here. I had been walking along East Beach and across the way was West Beach, so I headed over for a look at that. There were a few monuments spelling out ‘Zhelang' and 'I love Zhelang', is that what this area is called? Guess I will never know. I liked that on one of them some of the letters had fallen over, whether it was by design or by accident, it really fit in with the atmosphere of the area. The West Beach was dead in comparison to the East Beach. There were only a couple of people about. The sea on this side was really, really rough as the waves were crashing into the shore. There was a lifeguard/security guard (not sure which) in a beach hut to stop anyone stupid enough to think about trying to enter the ocean. There were some benches to sit on and I chose a spot under a tree and admired the view and read for a while. Looking along the coastline, there was some kind of pavilion further along, but the beach was closed off so you couldn't get to it. I looked online and there was a canon or something up there. I felt like there wasn't anything more to do at the beach so headed to the exit after braving the public bathroom. The fighter jets were still going overhead and I am sure they were getting lower. I think I could almost see the pilots' faces.

I decided to walk to the canon at Battery Park as it wasn't too far away, but I was a little unsure as my map app was saying that it may be closed. I started to make my way there but the route wanted me to go through some kind of guarded estate, so I nixed that idea and set off for the temple instead. My walk took me back through the town, which was a bit busier than earlier and then turn off the main drag and onto the road leading to the temple. The first couple of hundred metres or so were fine, but soon the path gave out and I was walking along the road. I was glad that there wasn't too many cars. I passed some military place and then another one. The second one was really funny as it just looked like a dirt road with a bar blocking its entryway, when all off a sudden a couple of soldier appeared in full camouflage gear with a net covered with leaves on their back to move the barrier to let a vehicle out. I did wonder as I continued walking if the surrounding bushes were filled with undercover soldiers. The walk to the temple took about 40 minutes and there wasn't really anything to see en route. I followed the curve of the road and could see the temple/scenic area ahead.

The sign welcomed me to Qu Guan Scenic area. Getting in was a bit strange. What looked like the main entrance was blocked off and you had walk into an empty building through one set of doors and out the next set of doors to enter the scenic area. It would have been much easier if the gate was open. I passed a Buddha statue and a smallish altar. There was a great doorway that made a great backdrop for photos with the blues of the sea and sky behind you and some girls where having a bit of a photoshoot there. I didn't know how long they would take and couldn't be bothered to wait. On the other side of the wall the views were great. I could see more Buddha statues, the giant rocks along the shoreline and the beautiful blue ocean stretching beyond with trawlers dotted along the horizon. I took a walk through the area where there were a lot of statues lined up. I loved how much expression they had in their faces and bodily gestures. I then headed in the direction of the temple as it looked beautiful sitting on the hill above the water. It reminded me a lot of Haedong Yonggungsa temple in Busan. There was a cute statue in the water. I headed into the shaded Sea View Lounge which was a nice place to rest for a while. The gorgeous sea views were very calming and I could have sat there for a lot longer than I did. As I was taking in the views, I saw the tower and old building that I had seen online that looked very insta worthy. However, I couldn't be bothered to walk back across to it so had to make do with some photos of it taken from a distance. Walking around the other side of the scenic area gave me some great views back along to Zhelang East Beach. I also had a quick look at the main Nanhai Temple building. I was so thirsty by this time I headed into the first shop by the exit of the scenic area to get a drink. I drank probably about three quarters of it before even leaving the car park. It definitely pays to drink fast in this heat as when I finished the rest off about ten minutes later it was already warm.

I wasn't 100% sure where to get the bus from as it had dropped us at the back of the tourist information centre and my map app showed that it would pick up from the main road, but I hadn't seen any bus stops. As I was making my way along there, I saw a bus heading off but didn't know where the stop was. Since I would have to wait half an hour for the next one, I had a little potter about, walking up one of the side streets and also taking a rest on one of the benches. I had a stroke of genius, I would go and ask in the tourist information centre where the bus would leave from. Went in and the bloody place was empty. It was a huge building and not a soul about. Sometimes I just don't get China. Anyway, I later saw the bus pulling out of the carpark and the security guard gestured to me that it leaves from in front of the tourist information centre so I had to leg it around to the front and made it onto the bus. The bus took a different journey on the way back. It was a little longer, but I didn't mind as the route was a bit more exciting as it went through a couple of villages and it was nice to see life going on as we passed by. At the train station I changed buses and opted to get a different bus back to my hotel. This bus was really busy. In hindsight, I should have waited for the bus I had taken before as this one didn't announce my stop and sailed past it and I was unable to get off until two or three stops later. Maybe I have been spoilt in Shenzhen and other Chinese cities I have been to and lived in, as bus drivers tend to stop at every bus stop and open the doors regardless of whether anyone wants to alight or not, and no one ever rings the bell. Not this bus, I heard someone asking the driver to stop so got off. This little jaunt had added about an extra 15 minute walk to my journey back to the hotel. I was gutted as I was tired and ready for a rest. When I got back the first thing I did was order a bubble tea as I really fancied one. I was boring and just went for a basic milk tea with boba. The tea didn't take long to appear at my door and was yummy. Since it was dinnertime and I was hungry, I ordered some food. I really didn't know what to have so after quite a bit of scrolling, I decided to just order from the same place as yesterday as I had enjoyed my food from there. I decided upon beef and cumin with rice and a cheeky fried egg, and also decided to get another beef bun as I had enjoyed my one the day before. The beef roujiamo was delicious as previously. The beef and cumin was nice, but not a standout dish. I think I have been spoilt as the chef at my (previous) workplace makes the best beef and cumin ever nothing can compare. I had wanted to go for a walk along the boardwalk again, but I was too tired after all the walking I had done so decided to make the most of my lovely hotel room as my next place would not be so flash. I liked Shanwei, there wasn't too much to do here, but I liked the temple overlooking the sea and the boardwalk at Binhai Park. And if I ever came back I would definitely stay at the lovely Atour hotel again. I need to remember this chain for when I'm feeling flush.

---

Comments

[Carol]

i was there!
I was there and it was really wonderful! I recommend you look at socks and gifts