Gorgeous George’s Gorgeous Gorges in Wushan

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We cleared the five locks of The Three Gorges early into the morning. Because our entry was after 10pm, there was no shipboard narration for passengers. Although some might have been disappointed by the limited visibility at the Three Gorges Dam, it needs to be taken in perspective that we were pretty fortunate since many previous tours are unable to see the dam at all. We did look outside our cabin before we turned in, and saw that we were in the process of going through one of the locks. The entire transit takes about four hours. We felt that sleep was probably a better use of these hours.

The morning onboard scenic cruising through Wu Gorge and the view of the Goddess Pic was rescheduled for 7:30am; so we decided to grab breakfast first. I decided to try a white melon-like fruit that is speckled with black dots, which someone told me was dragon fruit. One of our tablemates said another unusual looking fruit was delicious and sweet, so I tracked one of those down. Before returning to my table I asked one of the servers what the name of the fruit was, and he replied something like mango lysine, then took it from me, squeezed it, and twisted it splitting it in two halves. He told me to eat the white parts. I found the dragon fruit a bit tasteless; but, the fleshy mango lysine was indeed sweet (although from the way my tablemate was carrying on I was expecting something much sweeter and juicier). My other new culinary experimentation was to try cucumber juice, which wasn’t bad but I doubt I’ll be rushing to try it again.

We excused ourselves from breakfast and went up to the sundeck to take some pictures and do the scenic cruising. After the Wu Gorge, which starts out in the Hunei Provence and winds up in Chongqing, we made our way through the Xiling Gorge and docked for our shore excursion in Wushan. It was a short walk on the docking platform to our smaller craft with two levels for an up close viewing of the Three Lesser Gorges. The water in these gorges is 160 meters deep and lining both sides from the water up is 15 meters of bare limestone rock, marking the season high water mark of 175 meters. Our tour guides were Mike and Linda, and as you must know by now, these were not their real names. Our vessel had a distinctly Chinese look and would be sailing for 3 hours through the three lesser gorges. Mike informed us that the vessel also had one western style and three Chinese style restrooms, and assured us that they were clean.

Mike gave us the history of Wushan, which translates as “Witch Mountain”. About 2,000 years ago there was an emperor and a local herbal doctor named Wu. The emperor was suffering from severe headaches, and no medicine and no doctor did any good for him. Wu offered an herbal tea that he concocted and the emperor’s headaches were cured. The emperor was so grateful that he gave title to Wu of the mountain where he got his herbs. From that point forward that mountain became known as Wushan. The city today springing up at the base of this mountain on the Yangtze also took on this name.

After passing beneath a couple of very modern bright red arches providing the support for quite high suspension bridges, we made our way to the Dragon’s Gate Gorge, the first of the three lesser gorges we would go through. Local farmers have their homes perched on the steep hillsides. They moved here after being displaced by the Three Gorges Project. Also on the hillside are the terraced hillside farms where they work, and some farmers were spotted working the steep hillside land. In addition to various vegetable crops, the farmers produce green tea so important in Chinese culture. We were also alerted to be on the lookout for the famed wild monkeys that inhabit this area. At one time they were endangered because local farmers would kill them to prevent them from damaging their crops; however, China now protects these monkeys.

The second lesser gorge that we reached is the Misty Gorge. From the weather that we experienced, it is appropriately named. Low hanging clouds shroud the ridges of the cliffs lining the gorges, and wisps of fog hang in the air. As we came around a bend in the river we were told to look on the cliffs to the right for the hanging coffin. The hillside was once covered with caves used to bury the dead on the side of the mountain; although, today nobody knows how or why these coffins became suspended in the indentations of these cliffs. Today, this is one of the few remaining burial sites that is still intact out in the elements. Sharon took several clear pictures of the hanging coffin, which appears horizontal in the right of two cave opening high on the mountainside. Some of the lower coffins were moved to museums as part of the relocation effort for the dam. The coffins are believed to be from the Ba people who believed that it was more respectful the higher up you were and also closer for the soul to get to heaven.

The third lesser gorge is the Ever Gold Gorge. The weather was starting to turn foul and sprinkles made it quite cold out on the windy forward deck. At the halfway point of the journey the boat made a U-turn and headed back up the river. We took shelter inside on the lower deck. Approaching the Dragon’s Gate Gorge, I spotted a monkey’s face turning left and right high in a tree on the shore, and I could see some commotion in the treetop. Then a monkey appeared hanging by one hand to a branch and his whole whitish body clearly visible. The top of the tree was shaking violently now and I shouted “Monkey” for Sharon to try and get a picture; but, by the time she was looking the monkey had either fallen or let go and the commotion in the treetop stopped.

All along the gorges the steep cliffs falling into the water are bare rock up to the high-water mark. In spring, as now the hillsides above this band of rocks is a lush green. I’m told that in autumn the color changes to a bright red, and this area is a popular destination for the Chinese to see the changing colors.

We returned to the Viking Emerald and went to lunch. Sharon lamented, that she couldn’t believe that they haven’t served anything yet that she can eat for lunch, not counting the very good fresh bread that she stocked up on again. I had the vegetarian French Onion Soup; but, I’m pretty sure that French Onion Soup is supposed to be a beef bouillon based soup. I also had the Wiener schnitzel which I enjoyed.

We went up to Deck 5 to spend some time in the lounge, where Sharon hoped the Wi-Fi would be available and allow her to upload yesterday’s blog and pictures. We decided to share a Coca-Cola; but, then I thought I’d try their gin and tonic, which I enjoyed. Sharon got things caught up on the internet and I continued working on today’s blog. While we were there, a group came in to watch the Chinese painting demonstration. Sharon had seem some bottles for sale on board that are meticulously painted on the inside of the bottle, using slightly curved single hairs of various animals. Sharon went out on deck to take some more pictures as we began the transit of Qutang Gorge. When she came back it was time for our Mahjong lesson with Arnold, so we made our way up to the bar on Deck 6.

Sharon had played Mahjong before, but she wasn’t sure if the rules her first husband and his family used were correct, but they played on a very nice ivory Mahjong set. It’s believed that the current rules for Mahjong were adopted in China in the nineteenth century. They weren’t written down until an American who brought the game back to America. The game was outlawed in China by Mao Tse Tung as a capitalist pursuit. It became legal again in the 1970’s. Arnold went over the three suits that are used in the gamblers preferred version, using dots, bamboo and crack (Chinese characters). The full version also has the winds and dragons. Each tile has a suit and a value from 1 to 9. The object is to obtain four sets of three tiles in the same suit that either match or form a numerical straight (e.g. 4-5-6) and to have one’s final two tiles match exactly. This is called Mahjong. There’s a complex set of rules to start the game, turn over all of the tiles, mix them up, build a wall of tiles in front of each player, declare the dealer by who rolls the highest starting with the one sitting in the eastern most seat, the dealer then rolls the dice to determine who should then roll the dice to identify where the break in the wall is, and then the sequence for players to take tiles four at a time until everyone has thirteen tiles. The dealer, who starts instead with 14 tiles, must then discard a tile. The next player can then say “chir” and claim that tile for a straight; or, any player can say “pong” to claim the tile for three-of-a-kind; or, any player may say “dong” to claim the tile for four-of-a-kind. If a tile is claimed by a player, the resulting straight, 3-of-a-kind or 4-of-a-kind must be turned over; otherwise, the next player draws from the wall of tiles. If some player does say “pong” or “dong” then the player to the right of that player becomes the next player in line to draw a tile (some players may have lost their turn). Sharon and I each had two chances to play; and, she even managed to mahjong with a strong hand… she ponged and mahjongged at the same time.

Sharon then went to the Daily Briefing for tomorrow’s excursion, but didn’t stay for the video promotion for this cruise’s video DVD/Blue Ray taken by the ship’s photographer Dmitri. And surprise of surprises, “Dmitri” really is his real name, but then again, he’s not Chinese! He’s been going on all of the tours from the Viking Emerald, and we’ve seen him around the ship taking pictures at the shows. Sharon’s already placed an order for the Blue Ray.

Here we are almost at the halfway point of our trip, and it looks like Sharon’s not going to completely waste away for lack of nourishment; but, it’s a good thing she brought those Special-K Chocolate Pretzel Bars! We sat down at a table where one other couple was sitting, then another joined us. The first was from Scotland, and this was apparent the moment he spoke in that distinctly attractive dialect. The other couple that sat down after us was from “just north of Chicago”. When I asked how far north, they replied Wisconsin. I marveled how this was the first time we’ve sat at a table with no Canadians. Dinners are always preceded by an appetizer served on a toast crostini: tonight’s was a tasty bit of roast beef. All of the first courses looked fantastic to me, so I ordered both the shrimp with split peas and the pumpkin with coconut milk soup; while, Sharon ordered me the Chinese spring roll. All were very good and very tasty and pretty much what I expected; except, perhaps the first that had two bay shrimp atop dabs of what appeared to be split pea paste. The word “mustard sauce” in the description for the rack of lamb scared Sharon away, and she opted in the filet standby with baked potato. The word “curry” attracted me to the vegetarian curry with carrots, potatoes and eggplant. We both enjoyed our entrees very much, and I’m thinking mine might be my favorite on the cruise so far. And we both enjoyed the coffee ice cream for dessert.

On our way to tonight’s crew cabaret show, we passed the Chinese painter we’d seen earlier working on a painting on paper done with black ink. Sharon showed me some of the colorfully painted bottles that she had told me about, and one of two pandas immediately caught my eye. We decided it would be perfect for our shelf in the great room. We took our acquisition back to the cabin and headed up to the show.



We got there early enough to get our favorite seat on the side, the second enclave from the front about a small table arranged around a small table for drinks from the bar. We may have to reconsider how close to the stage that we dare to sit. The folks that sat with us for Bingo joined us; well, the two men did while their wives preferred to sit in chairs arranged in the center facing the flat stage. It’s hard to see from these seats because they’re not staggered, so you have difficulty seeing past the person in front. Both lady’s did come over to chat, one to ask her husband if he’d remembered to take his pills. He said he had. The other asked if she could get anyone anything to drink. Her husband said gin and tonic. She recognized us from bingo, and had played two packs of three cards each, the same as she had bought her husband to play, all trying to win the massage. After the winner had come forward, she realized that one of the squares on her husband’s card was also a bingo. The other winner had already left with her prize. This left Bob with a dilemma. Someone had asked the question about ties, and he had said that for the first two games, he could provide for a duplicate prize, but for the massage there would need to be a tie-breaker, each wannabe winner would get one number and high number would win. Bob conferred with his boss and was allowed to award a second massage, a prize which she’d already claimed and said was wonderful. Both women returned to their seats. The one husband then excused himself for a bit, and said he had to go take some pills. I’m not sure if he noticed the daggers his wife was shooting him from the center section. He returned shortly and the show started. The show started with a dance number in fanciful Chinese costume. The second number was also a dance number, and four women were on stage, as were three men. Bob came out and asked one of the men dancers where the third dancer was. “Ill” was the reply. Bob informed the audience that one of the dancers was sick. He then asked for a volunteer from the audience. When nobody came forward, Bob asked the lady dancer that was missing a partner to go out into the audience and to pick somebody. It didn’t take her long to zero in on our little enclave. I’m thinking the odds aren’t good; but, she selected to one with the gin and tonic. Reluctantly he joined her on stage, and really did a great job trying to mimic the others on stage. At the end of the routine, Bob announced that they were extending a job offer to him to perform with the group. Bob then announced what we all heard was “a music act”; but, it soon became clear that what we were watching was “a magic act”. It started with some sleight of hand razzle dazzle. He then dropped a silk handkerchief in an empty top hat, and poof, out flew a live dove. The dove flew out above the audience, seemed a bit confused by the bright overhead stage lights and circled back. That’s when we all watched, seemingly in slow motion, as some white bird poop left the bird and plopped on the. Those in the front row must have felt nothing but terror as the bird circled back for a second pass, and as we all held our collective breath, it was indeed bombs away again. We weren’t sure if any targets had been hit, but later when Bob appeared with some paper towels it appears to have been at the feet of those sitting at center stage. Sharon turned to me and marveled, “I wonder if they train the bird to do that?” There was also a memorable skit, which Bob introduced as a typical example of social interaction in a Chinese men’s restroom. Arranged across the front of the stage, is a barrier about three and one-half feet high, draped with a red curtain. The first man comes in steps on stage, walking up to the barrier, which is between him and the audience, and from the motion of his hands it appears that he’s unzipping. His face and eyes are very expressive and it appears that he’s a bit impatient to finish his business. A second man enters and takes his place to the right of the first. There is some embarrassed acknowledgement of the other, and both take their turns casting a quick glance down at the other. Dmitri now enters, and takes his place to the left of the first. It now becomes apparent that the second Chinese man has a beer with him and he starts to drink. The first man now has an urge to smoke and takes out a cigarette, which he manages to remove from the pack with one hand, while the other hand is keeping things under control out of sight. With the cigarette in his mouth he takes out a cigarette lighter, but it soon appears that the lighter is not working. He nods to Dmitri, drawing attention to the cigarette, and indicating he needs a light. Dmitri shrugs his shoulders and shakes his head. The first man, goes through the same thing with the other Chinese man, and again all communication is done in mime. He indicates that he has something to light the cigarette with, that it’s in his front pocket, but alas with both hands occupied, he will need to get it himself. He is somewhat hesitant; but, he must really want that drag. He gingerly reaches over and after some squirming retrieves a book of matches. He now realizes that with one of his hands occupied, he will need some help, which he seeks from Dmitri. Alas, he doesn’t have two free hands to strike a match. The center man then has a great idea. He nods his head towards Dmitri’s free hand, then nods down towards his own occupied hand, and gives that head gesture and wink to use his free hand to do what his own is taking care of. Dmitri reluctantly obliges, which allows the first man to strike the match and light the cigarette. (No they didn’t really light the cigarette.) With the guy on the right contently now drinking his beer, the one in the middle contentedly puffing on the cigarette with long exaggerated drags, and Dmitri rolling his eyes, there was the occasional glance and smirk before one by one they finished, then with an upward thrust of the shoulders each stepped away from the makeshift urinal wall and exited the restroom.

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