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Published: March 3rd 2008
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A symbol "perverted" in recent history.
The main statuary and representation of the Buddha in the enormous Tan Zhe Si Temple looks down on pilgrims and visitor alike, gracefully and calm. It displays an ancient Buddhist symbol on its chest, that takes many Western visitors by surprise. In this third and final installment of some of Beijing' great temples, permit me to introduce you to the sublime "Tan Zhe Si Temple", located beyond Beijing. I found this Buddhist temple to be one of the most beautiful I have visited in all of China, one I will always remember and hope to visit again. This is due mostly to the temple's scenic, mountain location, its grand display of temple-structures containing some of the most exquisite gilded statuary, among spectacular trees and foliage; and on clear days with views toward the grand capital of China.
The Tan Zhe Si Temple's nomination and preparation as a "World Cultural Heritage Site" is well deserved, and visitors to the Tan Zhe Si Temple will surely applaud this nomination and depart the site, hoping for its success. I hope you enjoy this journey beyond the city of Beijing to one of Buddhism's great holy shrines:
Traveling less than 30 miles West of Beijing, set in beautiful, forested mountains, where the air is "fresh", though scented by burning incense, sits one of China's greatest, ancient temples called Tan Zhe Si, the Temple of the Pool and Wild Mulberry.
Its location and hights
The ancient gilded Buddha atop the plinth at the Tan Zhe Si Temple
The altar at the main temple displays spectacular Buddhist statuary. Carefully cared for, it can be admired by visitors and is worshipped by the Buddhist faithful. are reached by a winding road, which passes the Ordination Terrace Temple. (The Ordination Terrace Temple, Jie Tai Si, was the second of Beijing's great temples I had presented in my last entry #94, and the first, the Lama Temple of Beijing, in entry #93).
The drive to reach this temple is simply exceptional, and for any visitor to China's capital will be a journey to be remembered, providing some glorious scenery and surrounding. Its peaceful mountain-location is not overwhelmed by tourism, and offers a wonderful change and repose from Beijings multitudes of people; though it does require some foot-work and the climbing of a number of steep terraces.
At this temple-shrine, one is more likely to share the paths with devoted pilgrims rather than throngs of foreign visitors.
Hardly changed for centuries and very popular with the local devotees of Beijing, it is a temple that had also received substantial, imperial support, especially from the Qing rulers, China's last imperial dynasty, who preferred Tibetan Buddhism.
The meaning of the temple's name is: "Dragon Pool and Mulberry Tree Temple", due to the Dragon Lake near the temple. The spring water from this pool has a special
"My likeness is only on the outside."
Buddhas can be admired as large wood-carvings at the temple's entrance and are for sale. The even larger Buddha behind me displays a sign, reminding an admirer, that one must pay 2 Yuan to take a photo with the larger and happier Buddha. quality, which enables objects to float upon the surface easily. On the third day of the third month people used to gather here for the "purification of the fermented wine". Brimming wine-cups were floated down the stream and only when they stopped moving was the wine drunk.
The many Mulberry trees that grow in the surrounding hills are majestic and add to the peace and tranquility of the temple's surroundings. The leaves of the Mulberry trees are the "only" food that silk worms will feed on, and so the admiration and importance of these grand trees can be better appreciated, remembering the role silk has played throughout China's long history and the wealth it helped bring to China's great, successive dynasties.
The Tan Zhe Si Temple pre-dates the founding of Beijing. A temple has existed on this site for over 1,600 years, and has been known by various names. There is a local saying:
"First there was Tan Zhe Si, and 'after' there was Yu Zhou." (Yu Zhou is an ancient name for Beijing and permits an understanding to the temple's longevity).
The present structure, laid out on traditional geometric lines, though on a mountain side, is
"Two plus One does not make Three Buddhas!"
Each of these large "happy" Buddhas is carved from one block of wood. Paying the fee to take a picture with him, the larger seemed to laugh even more when I tickled his stomach. I wanted to take him home with me. typical of Ming- and Qing architecture, the same architecture so familiar to visitors to China. Within its compound and court-yards are structures with names such as: Hall of Abstinence, the Ordination Altar, and the Hall to Guan Yin, the Goddess of Mercy.
The temple area covers over 41,000 magnificent square yards, and is not only one of the oldest, but also the largest in- and surrounding Beijing. The greenery of the temple's surroundings is spectacular, more during the spring when the fruit trees are in blossom. The lush bamboo gardens are also very famous.
The largest buildings are in Ming- and Qing style architecture, the most typical style of architecture of China's last two great dynasties and most familiar to visitors of the West. It is the same style and layout offered in the Forbidden City in the center of Beijing.
The most famous buildings for pilgrims and visitors within the temple-compound continue to be the Hall of Abstinence, the Ordination Altar, and the Hall of Guan Yin, the Goddess of Mercy, striking structures as these pilgrims and visitors wander through the extensive expanse of the temple's grounds.
In the main courtyard on the central axis
The Emperor Tree
The Tan Zhe Si Temple is especially known for this huge and majestic Ginkgo tree, known as the "Emperor Tree" reputed to be up to 1,000 years old. It is carefully cared for and its base is surrounding by red and gold prayer cloth, offered by the pilgrims to the temple. are a pair of towering and majestic 100-ft. high Ginkgo trees known as the "Emperor and Empress", planted over 1,000 years ago. They and other beautiful trees have acquired some strange shapes. Apricot trees, cypresses, peonies and purple jade orchid trees are also profusely represented on the temple grounds.
The "Emperor Tree" was christened the "King of Trees" by the great emperor QianLong.
The "Emperor's Wife Tree" is rumored to produce a new branch every time a new emperor is born.
The temple-complex is extensive, and is said to have provided a model for the "later" layout of the Forbidden City in the heart of Beijing and former royal residence.
Below the main court-yard lies a stupa-yard established over several centuries, housing the remains of eminent monks, often missed by visitors.
The Hall to Guan Yin (Goddess of Mercy) is associated with princess Miao Yan, the daughter of Kublai Khan. Legend has it, that the princess entered the nunnery here in the 13th century. Within the hall, indentations can be found in the stone on which she always knelt to pray in her devotion to Guan Yin. It is said, that she is buried within
The Emperor's Wife Tree
A second Ginkgo tree, is known as the Emperor's Wife Tree, and is shaped with many more branches. In fact legend has it, that a new branch grows with the birth of each new emperor. It too is appreciated for its age, maintaining within the spirit of centuries of history. the temple compound and a graceful statue of her is on display.
The Tan Zhe Si Temple is a typical Buddhist temple and was the first temple, that appeared in the area of China's capital, Beijing. The magnificant architecture could rival any of the imperial palaces and halls. It was built, when Buddhism began to spread throughout Eastern China.
These magnificent temples, where images of Buddha were enshrined and eminent monks from India stayed, were regarded as sacred places similar to government offices and their size attest to their importance.
The Tan Zhe Si Temple is now celebrating its 1,700th anniversary and so has become the oldest and most influential holy place in the capital, after weathering rises and falls with the numerous changes of the dynasties in China.
Recently, and preparing for the cultural relic protection progam to welcome the 29th Olympics to Beijing, tens of millions of Yuan ($1.00 = 7.3 Yuan) have been invested in the rebuilding and maintenance of this, one of China's greatest, most beautiful, historical temples, and the temple compound and its surroundings have been recommended as a candidate for the World Cultural Heritage List, a certification this Tan Zhe
A sparse number of visitors to this site make a visit to the Tan Zhe Si Temple a special and more spiritual experience.
This path leads toward the main building within the Tan Zhe Si Temple-compound. To the left emerges the Emperor's Wife Tree and to the right, the Emperor's Tree is in sight. Two stone steles help guide the way. Si Temple greatly deserves.
By enlarging the photos in these journal entries, your appreciation of the details will be increased. If you have the time, I encourage you to take another look. Your comments and suggestions are so much appreciated, and I hope to hear from you, especially since I miss you all so very much.
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Tracy Wang
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admire
I am one of your students in China. I admire your diverse experience ,that is really a big fortune.