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Published: December 13th 2009
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If you think of 'Cambodia' - what do you think of? For me I think my word association generally consisted of words such as 'war', 'orphans', 'poverty' and of course 'Angkor'. Apart from having a marvel of the world bringing Angelina Jolie enhanced fame to the nation all it's other main attractions are about the recent history of violence and destruction. I'd been having such a lovely, relaxing time in Thailand I barely wanted to cross the border. I thought it was only momentum taking me forward.
As I walked towards the border crossing into Poipet the morning was just beginning. Scores of people were coming through, no doubt for work. Large mobile ponds full of fish were being pushed on trolleys by eight or so barefoot men to the markets and restaurants of Thailand. There was an incredible buzz to the area.
I walked through, absorbing the scene and taking in the noticeboards denigrating people who gamble. How it's destroys families and the like. Another stamp in the passport later I was walking under the gateway welcoming me to Cambodia and was straight away scooped up by an official there who guided me from building to building (and
past a vast range of casinos!) to complete the visa process. Minutes later I was in a taxi towards Siem Reap.
Some of the first sights that I saw are sights that will persist in me as my image of Cambodia. The long straight tarmac road vanished off into the heat of the horizon ahead of me, with its frayed edges to either side melting into the red earth dust of the land. The mopeds and occasional car that populate the roads become invisible to me as I become absorbed in the image of Cambodias beautiful children. Some children all in their white shirts and navy skirts or trousers on bikes far too big for them were cycling along. They see me and their eyes and hearts just open into wide smiles and they begin to wave. I think I melted for the country in that moment.
By sunset that evening I was ensconced in a lovely guest house and heading off to see the sunset at Angkor. Sadly that was a little disappointing. There were a good 300 or more other people vying for space at the top of a hill to try and get a nice
picture. I hoped that the dawn I would witness when the sun was next returned to us involved slightly less competition and headed back for a very early night.
When my alarm went off at 4am I had to remind myself several times that this was something that I
wanted to do before setting off on my dodgy looking mountain bike to Angkor Wat. Answering my prayers it was nowhere near as busy as the sunset and provided some beautiful silhouettes as the world once again became illuminated. Thinking that the sunrise was 'finished' I headed towards the building - somewhat confused that no one else seemed to be doing the same thing. I turned out to be delighted with that situation - I had the whole building to myself - whole corridors were empty and I was free to sense the calm and serenity of this, the largest temple in the world. The rest of the day was fantastic and despite being exceptionally saddle sore 30km later I returned the bike exhausted but very content. Bayon, the temple with the four sided faces everywhere ... in total 216 of them smile benevolently down at you; and Ta Phrom,
the 'Tomb Raider' temple, green with lichen and being reclaimed by the forest in spectacular style were my two favourites.
Before I knew it though it was time to leave Siem Reap - towards the capital - Phnom Penh - this time to delve into the darker aspects of Cambodias history.
From my understanding it was a combination of a deposed king and the Vietnam War spilling over into Cambodia that enabled the Khmer Rouge to slide into power in 1975. 3 years 8 months and 20 days later approximately 1.7 million people of a population of only about 7.5 million would be killed - and killed by their own countrymen.
One of the books about Cambodia I've read is 'First they killed my father'. It's the survivor story of a girl that was five years old at the start of the Khmer Rouge rule and lived through the atrocities. It's a beautifully written book by a woman with an incredible strength and it gave me such a lot of food for thought. Firstly this is history so recent that both my brother and I would have been born during those times - would we have even
survived as helpless babies? She tells of her time being indoctrinated in the teaching of the Angker and how some of these child 'soldiers' would be made to do things as horrific as swinging babies by their legs against trees to cave their heads in. And this took me to one of the thoughts that really stuck with me - that whilst all victims of the system there must be so many people who live forever as either the tortured or torturers of the era. How many people here live with the knowledge that they have killed?
All in all, all these thoughts, my visit to the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek - with its pagoda of 8000 skulls, the S21 prison of Tuol Sleng where it's estimated that 20,000 people lost their lives, left me in a pretty morose place. I was struggling to find positivity I was so lost in feelings of sadness for the country. And then I opened my eyes! Businesses, families, houses, communities all rebuilding. Young people hanging out with friends and craving the latest moped. Children smiling and dreams being dreamt. Humanity rebuilds and that was Cambodia is doing and I realised that
I had no right to spend my time moping about in a country that wasn't busy feeling sorry for itself. And it was as I turned this corner that I went to one of the orphanages.
Lighthouse is an orphanage about 20km out of central Phnom Penh and where I went last Sunday and was fantastic. What a gift these children were. Open arms and open hearts, excited to have you help them with their studies or play football. Some were open with their stories others quieter, some just plain mischief! I didn't want to leave and certainly can't wait to go back!
My last stop in Cambodia was Kampot. It's a few kilometres from the beach but on the south coast and near the border with Vietnam and I seem to have met quite a few people here who just never seem to get away! This sleepy town has been fantastic. I have met great people, enjoyed incredible countryside, laughed till I cried and made meaningful connections with new friends - all against the backdrop of the river and tumble down French architecture. I've hiked until sore and then had the aches massaged away - or snooze
them away in a hammock. Cambodia has the tourist slogan 'stay another day'. I've stayed an extra few!
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Dad
non-member comment
Another Michael Palin in the making?
Prose-delicious!