Siem Reap

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I flew into Phnom Penh on Saturday, May 26 - an early flight - I arrived around 9 am (it was only an hour flight from Bangkok). I traveled light so I got on a motorbike at the airport and had him take me to the bus station. I took the bus to Siem Reap, unbeknownst to me I paid double - $7.00 - to sit on a hot bus (air con was on low), under the speaker (evidently, Khmer's like to listen to TV very very loud!). We left at 10 and arrived in a downpour at 3:30. I had a tuk tuk drive me to my hotel. I couldnt see out for the rain but I could see under- the road was full of potholes the size of small lakes. The hostel was full but right down the road a lovely hotel called The Temple had beautifully decorated rooms for 8-12/night. I showered and ate and then followed the sound of a loudspeaker. Evidently, a marriage was taking place. I walked down the muddy, lake-filled road and stared in with the other onlookers. The bride looked like a princess. I couldn't see the groom.

The next day I went to Angkor Wat by tuk tuk. I explored Angkor for about an hour and then was harrassed by children selling items - they stick them in your face and will not take no for an answer. At the next temple my driver told me to visit 3 sites and then meet him at restaurant #22. I must have been to 5 sites. Often I was intermingled with tour groups of Koreans! I can't escape! I overshot our meeting place -- hot, sweaty, exhausted. The driver was swaying in a hammock. THen he dropped me off at the next site - there I was lost for over an hour - the temple was like a maze. Someone finally lead the way and I tipped him gratefully. My driver was lounging under a tree. I got fed up with the children - there must have been over 100 during the day - I never experienced such aggressive tactics! and the heat and the climbing/walking. It was only 1:30 in the afternoon and I asked him to drive me back to the hotel. No doubt Angkor Wat was gorgeous and truly inspiring, but the heat and the hard sells ruined the experience for me.

Day 3 - "fast boat" from Siam Reap to Battambang
The ticket agent said I would arrive at Battambang by noon. Yeah right. I got picked up in a crowded van at 6:15 am. We picked up a few more unsuspecting tourists and then hit a dirt road with shacks. It was depressing. Got to the dock and could barely stand on my leg - it had fallen asleep. Children there sold us bread, cheese, and cold water. They didn't stick anything in our face or make a hard sell. They were very kind. I swear tourists change local people and I should make it a habit to avoid touristy places. Just see local life. We got on a long boat with wooden planks down both sides. After the captain got the boat straightened out - 20 mins or so- we were on our way - to a never-ending boat ride! Wow, at noon we were just stopping at a floating store/cafe for lunch. I couldnt find anything to eat and I didnt want a drop of liquid (I was afraid to use the bathroom). We hit rain around 2:30. With the tarp over the windows, we were hot, tired, sweaty, and getting smellier by the minute. Nonetheless, life on the river was passing us by. Kids were swimming, adults in tubs taking their morning bath, fishermen fishing, women rowing boats, kids swinging in hammocks - it was fascinating and very beautiful. It did have great scenery, it was just longer than expected. We finally arrived in Battambang at 4:20 - 8 or 9 hours on that boat!

Day 4 - motorbike to temples
Met some interesting people here at the hotel. Will tell you about it later. Today I hired a motorbike & driver and went to 2 temples. The ride through the courntryside was beautiful. The road was a bit bumpy. I was shown the "highway" - a dirt road. I cannot even believe the lack of paved roads and the amount of landmines still buried here. One of the temples was near the "killing cave" - it is where Pol Pot ordered men, women and children thrown into a cave in order to save on bullets. THere are still skulls in the caves. Tomorrow I will head to Phnom Penh and visit two museums to learn more about the Khmer Rouge and the killing fields.

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