Day 8: Monkey business in Phnom Penh

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Geo: 11.5588, 104.917

No-one else heard it - but I did. At 4.17 am I was woken by monks chanting. I put on my robe and scurried out to the sundeck to see what was going on. It was pitch black and not another person was n sight. And despite everyone I have met today if they heard it - not one other soul has confessed to hearing the chanting.

And continuing the theme of being on deck in PJs, got a call from Richard saying that the view from the front of the ship was worth the trip down the hallway. So once again, wrapped in the white AMA Lotus gown I was on deck. Despite assuring me that no-one was there, think that everyone from the third floor was out and had a comment about my robe.

LO_RI and Mac headed to breakfast but I gave it a miss. A woman's work in Vietnam is never done - I used the time to declutter the cabin, re organise my belongings and to do the hand washing. Reports from the dining room were that choices were just as broad but our group went ultra light with just cereal, fruit and toast. For the first morning so far, the Vegemite didn't make the table.

Loraine opted for a guided tour of the dazzling white and gold Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda. The tour guide shared the imperial history of Cambodia and which is located on the south side of is group spent 90 minutes ambling in the palace's grounds in the searing heat. The palace complex houses many national treasures and Loraine commented on the diamonds that encrusted the female Buddha and the temple with the solid silver floor.

We were loaded onto the decorative purple bus and headed 90 minutes out of town with Tinnie to discover some of Cambodia's sobering history with a moving excursion to the infamous Killing Fields followed by a stop over at Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, located on the site of the Khmer Rouge's notorious Security Prison 21 (S-21).

The bus ride out was slow. Traffic chaos was the order of the morning and the proliferation of cars and buses mixed in with the scooters, bikes and tuk tuks definitely ensured we travelled at a snail's pace. And Tinnie (just like the beer and the boat), our local Cambodian guide, talked non stop for the duration of the journey explaining democratic elections, prime ministers and government and the rise and fall and rise again of Cambodia under the watchful eye of the hero king.

Tinnie is a wife and young mother, whose husband works for the government and whose 20 month old son is cared for by the mother-in-law. Tinnie is planning for a second child, but this is delayed till 2019 on the advice of the fortune teller - apparently, a child born in the Year of the Pig would be "lucky" from her family...,guessing superstition is a very strong method birth control. Tinnie is extremely proud of the struggle of her country, she values education as the savour of her nation and is acutely aware of the hard work that is needed to bring salvation to her people and to convert her population of dependant world importers into a leading agricultural and manufacturing nation of Asia.

We are convinced that Tinnie could be a politician - but even with 15 million votes behind her she would not be elected - somehow, despite the number of votes and the will of the people, the People's Party candidate always ends up in office! And in the words of Tinnie "Can you believe that?"

The Killing Fields were just that. A large area with mounds that resembled bomb craters which featured a board walk and included signs that warned you not to step on the bones. The centre piece of the field was a five storey Buddhist tower that festered tall glass window. Every window displayed a stack of whir bleached skulls piled in ordered rows. The victims of the Pol Pot regimes massacre of the residents of Phnom Penh and surrounding villages.

Estimates of the number killed by the Khmer Rouge between 1975 and 1979 range from 1.4 million to 2.2 million (staggering numbers given the total population nudged just around 7 million.) pol Pot has been described as the "Hitler of Cambodia" The genocide programme non discriminately executed anyone who was identified as an intellectual (pale skin and glasses) or anyone who was suspected of connections with the former government or former governments. The political prisoners were referred to as CIA because of their political connections with the US. Torture methods were insanely simple and intensely cruel. Paintings septic children being thrown in the air and shot like clay targets and swing by their legs to beat their head against a tree trunk. Men and women alike were electrocuted, lashed, eviscerated, dunked to near drowning point in human excrement and starved to death in incarceration.

We were introduced to two survivors of the S21 Detention Centre and it is impossible to imagine what these men have endured both physically and mentally. To be honest, the reality of this cruelty is chilling and mind numbing. Laid out in endless rows of black and white photos and piles of skulls, teeth and bones, this will surely haunt our nightmares. And again, LO_RI can't help but draw comparisons with the current world flash points. Today's chilling lessons seem to be the lessons we don't learn as Loraine's single human raced. Lorraine's "human race" keeps playing the same old game but seems to expect a different outcome. That is truly "dumb."

Enough.

Have definitely declared today alcohol free. Those glasses were just endless last night. Still on my strict one coffee a day regime and today have been overdosing on the peach tea and soda water. Beautifully refreshing. And coincidentally, opted for all the vegetarian choices on the menu. Feeling better for the experience and have to report that GI (Gut Infections) are knocking over many passengers. There is even a side menu to support this group. Touch wood - not us although we did notice our English anniversary couple were absent today. Mac did learn they were squirrelled away in their cabin close to the loo!

Time to go solo this afternoon. The boys negotiated a price for a tuk tuk and with arms and legs definitely inside the vehicle we merged into the flow of traffic and headed to the Central Markets. We resisted the fried tarantulas, cockroaches and beetles piled high in baskets ("No photos please"😉 and the silver and gemstone jewellery of the specialty store but did dive into the piles and piles and piles of clothing.

On reflection, 30 minutes here was not enough. Was just so alive and vibrant and the stuff on offer was amazing. The sheer volume of goods was mind boggling and it was pleasant shopping. Stall holders were attentive and interested but not pushy and persistent. Shoes, bags, socks, dresses, shirts, trousers, suits and souvenirs mixed in with flowers and food. And money was changing hands! Sure there are many more of these to come.

Unfortunately, the metric measuring tape of Cambodia is a little different from the Aussie version and the trousers and shirt are about 15 cms shy of a good fit. We are going to check out their exchange and refund policy tomorrow. Watch this space.

Each time you leave the room, housekeeping takes over and tidies up and restores order, along with preparing the origami decoration. You definitely don't see them but it is nice t know they have a sense of humour. Richard opted for his dark glasses for the tour to the Killing Fields and on return was in a "turn the room upside down frenzy" because his clear glasses were missing. In total frustration he collapsed into the chair and glanced up and caught sight of his glasses, perched precariously on the face of the origami monkey! Got to love the housekeeping cheeky monkeys.

Rounded out the evening with a show from a Cambodian dance troop, lingered over an on board dinner, (and found time to give a rose to our beautiful evening dinner hostesses Leah and Chenda) chatted and laughed with some regulars and sorted through the school materials in preparation for a visit to a village school tomorrow.

Richard opted to leave the boat for a walk to the night markets and broke all the rules because he escaped without taking his room number! Thank goodness we didn't have to send out a search party or rescue him from jail!

Drifted effortlessly to sleep accompanied by a spectacular light show and the steady thrum of rain.

Steps: 6 479
Temperature: 32 degrees with an evening storm (this Nader, lightening for hours followed by a deluge of water)

PS We are hearing stories of Brisbane been awash as Debbie drops bucket loads of rain and believe that school has been closed and early holidays have been declared. Stay safe everyone. Trust our little home is locked up and sealed dry as a drum! Got some updates from @Michael today as the internet miraculously kicked into life.

PPS @Aunty Gail and Paul - yep, river cruising is perfect! Even the shower has LOADS of room.

PPPS Finally, at 11.15 pm, my story of the monks has been vindicated. Eleanor and Michael have a recording! The non-believers in LO_RI are going to hear this one tomorrow.

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Comments

[Aunty Gail]

Another day of many different experiences....I like the sound of the markets!!......and yes, all is good at home.....Ruby & I did a thorough 'house check' after the storms had passed.....the letter box stood the test!!!