The Palace and Real Life in Phnom Penh


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Asia » Cambodia » South » Phnom Penh
February 16th 2010
Published: March 10th 2010
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For breakfast, Julie and I headed down the street to the cafe we discovered our first day here. We feasted on bagels with cream cheese and chocolate milk shakes, two foods we can't get in China. I call it a balanced breakfast.

Our tuk-tuk driver was busy for the day--much to our disappointment--but he called his father to drive us instead. It was wonderful to know we would be getting someone who was most likely kind and unlikely to try and rip us off. His father turned out to be more helpful because his English was much better. He made sure our shoulders were covered, etc, before he dropped us off at the palace.

While we stood in line at the Royal Palace, I donned the tshirt I had in my purse. It's too hot to wear it any more than necessary. If you've forgotten to bring sleeves with you, you can buy a souvenir shirt by the ticket booth for what I imagine is a slightly more than reasonable price. Julie rented a skirt since her shorts didn't quite reach her knees. My shorts were just long enough. I also found that sucking in my stomach made them sit lower on me and thus look longer. I had learned in Thailand that rental skirts can be difficult to walk in.

Inside the palace was beautiful. It reminded me a bit of the palace in Thailand, but it was distinctively different. They are in the process of renovating and repainting parts of the palace. It was fun to see the old and the new side by side. I was happy things were as preserved as they were, all things considered. (The Khmer Rouge's plan to start over at Year Zero including destroying the past.)

Some of the areas were off limits--which was frustrating--since those areas looked really interesting and the construction inhibited my ability to take better photos outdoors. Scaffolding doesn't look regal.

The jade Buddha was glowing green and all around were other relics and artifacts. Other buildings had weapons, including a crocodile spear! Julie and I theorized how it worked since the hook on the end was unusual looking!

It was a hot day and shade was hard to find. We did find some next to what looked like a garden. We rested a bit before finishing the palace. I was almost happy to be on my way just I could take off my extra shirt and cool down.


We went to the Russian Market next since I had to get tshirts for my friend's parents. As a trade-off, she's bringing me a few things from the US. I managed to find them easily and only paid about $2.50 each. I debated getting one for myself, but since Shenzhen is so hot and I look forward to tank tops, I decided I wouldn't be able to wear it as much as I'd like. Besides, they didn't have the color I wanted in my size. No, really, brown is not an okay alternative to blue. And yes, I'm sure I won't fit into that.

I did, however, manage to find the perfect souvenir. I love jewelry since it lasts for a long time and every time I put a piece on I remember where I bought it. I bought a silver bracelet with tiny elephants on it. I feel confident in the quality of it, too, since it was in the locked case and she had to weigh it to determine the price. I paid a bit extra for it, but knowing it wont' rust or tarnish makes it money well spent.


We asked our tuk-tuk driver to take us to a restaurant since we were getting hungry. I finally tried one of Cambodia's signature dishes, Amok shrimp. It's a variation on the more traditional dish Amok fish. The shrimp was topped with a thick, curry-like sauce and served in a banana leaf. I also had a pineapple shake and we shared another order of vegetarian spring rolls.


We went to the National Museum next. The building was beautiful and easily recognizable. And as I later found out, the outside is all you are allowed to photograph. Not that that stopped very many people. The museum was smaller than I expected but the treasures were amazing. There were lots of stone statues from the seventh century in near-perfect condition. There were also formal crowns and headpieces from over five hundred years ago. I wandered through, in awe, stopping to take it all in. It was almost overwhelming, but very well done.
And then, suddenly, the museum was done.


We asked to be taken back to our hostel since it was nearly nap time and we
I got a new job!I got a new job!I got a new job!

The Royal Palace
were hot. Our driver agreed and en route asked us if we wanted some sugar cane juice. Normally I'd say no thanks because I'd think this was an unsafe idea. But for some reason this seemed like the best thing I'd heard all day and we quickly agreed. He took us to his neighborhood (not far from our hostel) and a woman he knew pressed the cane, releasing the juice, and put it into tall, carved glasses. It was served warm, because as he explained more than once, the ice in Cambodia isn't safe. We sat in the shade of the building talking with him while he told us some history and about his job and about life in Phnom Pehn. We were only there about half an hour, but it was one of the high points of my trip.
Lesson learned, again: not everyone is out to take advantage of you when you are traveling. You need to trust.


After our naps we checked our email at the place down the street again. Each time we leave they yell, "See you next time!" so we have to keep going back! Midway through the power went out and
The Silver PagodaThe Silver PagodaThe Silver Pagoda

The Royal Palace
that was the end of my internet for the day. We paid and left, while many of the regulars sat around outside--some on their motorbikes--waiting for the power to come back on.


Julie wanted to get her nails manicured since the polish was pre-Bangkok and horribly chipped. We set out with a woman from our hostel. We didn't go to the river area (where there are probably some very expensive salons) but rather to where our hostel worker gets hers done. We followed her into a shopping area that sells everything--you can tell by the smell. The walls looked like corrugated metal held together with screws. Julie's nails were painted green with yellow flowers.. and it was done by pseudo lantern light, the fluorescent light, both, and then back to the lantern. We moved into the "hallway" (with pavement beneath us) where there was some more light. Crazy. But Julie's nails turned out just fine.


We made our way to the river for one last dinner. We went back to the place we ate at the first night and sat on the balcony again. We shared a bottle of wine and feasted on pasta. Julie got dessert, but I was too full. We relaxed, took in the people-watching, and talked about the trip so far and the trip yet to come.




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The Royal Palace


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