Angkor Thom & Angkor Wat

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As our tuk tuk driver, Verak, drops us off on Saturday he says "ok, so I see you 5 in the morning for sunrise?" We really are going against the standard approach, but we think the kids would last maybe an hour after sunrise so we tell him to hold off.

A day off! We swim in the pool and go for coffee and Vegemite toast at a little Australian cafe, it's so good we go back for another coffee and lunch (Els is coping well with her molars but mum's in need of coffee). We wander through trendy and expensive shops and head out to a flash restaurant set amongst restored wooden Khmer houses for dinner. We even manage to go to bed early.

At 5 am we roll out of bed, bundle sleepy children into their clothes, pick up our hotel arranged takeaway breakfast and slip out into the night.

Verak is waiting, and is again shocked to hear we don't want to go to Angkor for sunrise we want to try bayon. "Are you sure? bayon is shady" he says "we can check on way past". As we approached Angkor we checked the sky, still cloudy from the rain yesterday, we paused to watch hundreds of people picking their spots in the dark hoping to see the sun breakthrough the thick cloud. We know we've made the right call and continue on through the gates to bayon.

We climb the darkened steps into this temple of endless carved faces, slowly coming to life and light in the half dark. We are the only ones here and it's magically quiet and still, cool and dark. We watch as everything changes with the rising sun, the dawn sounds (mixed with tuk tuk and motorbikes) and our own company.

The clouds have not allowed a colourful sunrise, but the quiet changing shadows across these huge stone faces, all to ourselves, was so special. We sat down and ate breakfast watching the faces of Avalokiteshvara light up.

Bayon is part of an enormous complex of temples and ancient city, we walked slowly through beautiful ruins, past temples, old walls and bridges, to a massive elephant bridge. Then it was on to the finale.

Even after all the temples we have seen, Angkor did not disappoint. The ultimate of Khmer genius, is simply staggering and is matched by only places on earth such as Machu Pichu or Petra. It's a long approach across the moat to the massive and imposing gate, then a further 350 metres of raised and balustraded stone walkway to Angkor. The carving in these alone is impressive, but all the while your eyes are drawn to the massive carved stone structure looming ahead. Agus feels the need to fully experience this place and sheds his shoes (we are impressed that he's worn them the whole trip so don't argue with him).

It's designed to be approached anti clockwise, so we begin by flanking around the lower floor to study the immense story wall carvings from floor to very high ceiling. It becomes irresistible to head in and up as we circle each level with Agus shouting excitedly "this way, follow me". Up we go and join the queue to the very highest level, only to find kids aren't allowed. So we take it in turns to visit the highest level and marvel at the views.

By now the day is getting really hot and we're starting to think about lunch and not overdoing it. So we gradually make our way back along vaulted corridors, down steep steps, past vast (now empty) pools and endless carvings to the bridge, the gardens, the gate and home.

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