The wonders of Angkor

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Day 10- Tuesday

This morning we were awakened at 3.50am by loud explosions which continued every few minutes for about twenty minutes. I personally, in a room alone was not worried. They actually reminded me of the dynamiting sounds we used to hear every day when living in Seoul...they were always building and expanding things. And on arrival yesterday I saw massive evidence of Korean development projects. Eventually, in my sarong I went out into the hall where some others were gathered and they said "Fireworks!"so I went back to bed. As a Kirribilli resident I have become rather blaze about those. We get them every couple of weeks. No one seemed to know what it was all about. But later in the day we were talking to a "tourist"policeman at the actual temple which is Ängkor Wat"and he explained that at that exact time the Cambodian people had just heard on CNN TV that the dispute between Cambodia and Thailand about a temple which is across the border, (half in each country) had just been resolved in Cambodia''s favour. So the fireworks were a rather inscrutable announcement and celebration.

Then at 4.30 came my wake up call for our 5am tuk tuk departure to see the dawn at Angkor Wat. Off we set in the dark....crossed the moat which would put any European moat to shame and along the long causeway to the temple. Magnificent. There were lots and lots of buses and groups of tourists with the same idea. Unfortunately , like last night it was overcast, so we couldn't see the actual dawn. However, we got to walk into the temple alone or at least first, and take photos without other people in the way. It was truly worth the early start.

After that we went to a local restaurant for breakfast at the site. The drivers are fed free as a reward for bringing customers. Then we began our day's touring of various different temples and buildings of the Angkor complex.The inner circle, which we completed today between 5.30am and 4pm is about 25 kilometers in circumference. We had a great time scrambling up the unbelievably steep and high flights of very very small but steep stairs ascending many of
them through three levels. The best way is on all fours , like a monkey (wearing a backpack). My family will all be amazed as I have quite a terror of heights and moving through the air (the monorail, cable cars in San Francisco, Sydney Tower> But ancient monuments and church towers ( as well as the stairs to gods in various opera houses!) that have stood for centuries I don't mind. In fact I prepare for them by walking up the 9 flights of stairs of my apartment block every day.

We were amazed at the number and variety of tourists (we heard groups of Korean, Indians, Chinese, Spanish) all with local guides speaking their languages. UNESCO seems to have galvanised international support for restoration projects...different building being restored with teams from various countries...Japan, France, India , China, and Italy .The entire site is very well cared for and the only part of the country where people pick up litter. Beautifully landscaped too. Unfortunately there are lots of children, many barefooted, who surround us at every opportunity, trying to sell things.
There is a real boom in this town from tourism. A lot of luxury hotels.

The really regrettable fact is that the governement has leased /sold the rights to organising the site and admissions to a Korean development company which has also bought up the main beach at Sianoukville for a resort. The government just doesn't seem to have a clue how to get organised and make money. So much corruption. The most common type of car on the road ( not counting tuk tuks and bikes) is big black lexux 4wheel drives!
They do not even charge a luxury tax on imported good such as alcohol. You can buy imported gin cheaper here than in duty free.

After coming back we drank large volumes of cold water and had a showers and a brief rest. Then I went along the street to an optometrist I had seen offering eye tests and new glasses for $18. Having lost not one but two pairs ( of cheapies from the chemist) since I arrived here a week ago I ordered a couple of new pairs. The optometrist (young and female) spoke excellent English and tested my eyes in the usual manner with various cards and lenses and then a big pair almost like a diving mask. They would be ready in two hours.

This evening Connie and I went to a restaurant with a performance of traditional dancing and music.

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Photos

Beng Melia
about 65 kilometers from the town of Siem Reap is this temple which has not been restored from the encroachment of the jungle. It shows what the buildings of the Angkor complex must have been like.

Bantei Srey
Another temple near Siem Reap, but further from the Angkor complex. Here the carving is so fine and delicate it is thought it may have been done by women.