Hpa An (28-30 Jun 12)


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June 28th 2012
Published: July 1st 2012
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Freedom is...Hpa An on a MotorbikeFreedom is...Hpa An on a MotorbikeFreedom is...Hpa An on a Motorbike

Even if it's a real sh*tty one!
This is the first time I couldn't find a location pre-loaded in the website's database! I must really be travelling now...😊 For the obsessive-compulsive types, I'm afraid the best I can do is indicate Mawlamyine since it's the next closest I could find.

Anyway as mentioned in my previous post, I couldn't take a boat so had to be satisfied with a (faster) 2.5h bus ride instead to the small town of Hpa An just north of Mawlamyine, still along the Ayerwaddy River. Definitely smaller than Mawlamyine, Hpa An is set in the midst of plains of rice paddies, and hemmed in by several hill ranges, all making for some truly picturesque landscape.

The beautiful scenery aside, this little relatively unknown town is actually of some significance to me. Let me explain.

Several months ago when I was reflecting over my job and life more generally, I came across a travel blog written by a Canadian ex-lawyer named Jodi Ettenburg. One specific entry of hers talked about arriving in Hpa An and seeing a large fire break out in the middle of the night. The scurrying around by all the people who were losing their worldly possessions to
Safe Food, Good TasteSafe Food, Good TasteSafe Food, Good Taste

Yes I'm sure glad the chicken is SAFE!
the conflagaration was particularly poignant to her. And all I could think of was this:

What in the world was a Canadian ex-lawyer (read: ang moh, in Singaporean-speak) doing in this small town in Myanmar??!?!

In any case it certainly got me thinking, and there was definitely a sense of "if she can do it, why not me?" And to cut a long story short, months later, here I am, in Hpa An myself. It's quite difficult to explain the thoughts that went through my mind as I overlooked the Ayerwaddy and saw the surrounding countryside and hills from the Shweyinhmyaw Pagoda from the corner of town, and reflected over this reality. But I think perhaps, some six weeks now into my travels, and for just the briefest of moments, I understood.

I've never met or spoken to Jodi before, and I guess that really shows the power of the internet, where even otherwise innocuous-seeming messages can get sent with such influence halfway across the world.

Anyway, for those who are curious, here's the link to that post: http://www.legalnomads.com/2011/03/travel-and-perspective.html

It's a great travel blog actually, with lotsa professional-looking photos, useful travel tips (safety whistle!), and
Inside a TempleInside a TempleInside a Temple

Murals on the walls explain Buddha's story.
some inspiring stories too 😊 She also mentions staying in one of the only-two licensed guesthouses for foreigners in Hpa An, so I figure I'm fifty-fifty staying in the same one.

So Jodi, if you're reading this, thanks. And were you at Soe Brothers too?


Additional photos below
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Hpa An Breakfast!Hpa An Breakfast!
Hpa An Breakfast!

No you don't have to eat everything! Just pick whatever you want, anti-histamines not included. I also discovered Singaporean yu zhar kway (dough fritters in Hokkien) in Myanmar is called, wait for it *drumroll* yu zhar kway!
Mt ZwegabinMt Zwegabin
Mt Zwegabin

About 10 km south of Hpa An, and apparently a 2h climb up. I skipped the climb this time.
Concealed Mines in Hpa AnConcealed Mines in Hpa An
Concealed Mines in Hpa An

I was riding along and saw some locals stopping by the side of the road looking at these rocks. They muttered something in Burmese of course incomprehensible to me so I continued but somehow intuitively decided to stop. Good idea! Suddenly heard a loud BOOM, before the locals continued of their way too. Turns out they were trying to tell me to stop cos of mine blasting activity!
Myanmar Girl Who Fried My NoodlesMyanmar Girl Who Fried My Noodles
Myanmar Girl Who Fried My Noodles

I stopped for lunch (fried noodles) along the way, and turns out this girl who fried my noodles spoke Thai! She lived in Thailand for three years, apparently not uncommon in this region near the Thai border crossing at Mae Sot. Tried communicating with her with my very limited Thai, and I asked if she could write Thai too. Yes she could, and she demonstrated writing LOVE in Thai. Hmmm... For some reasons she also kept insisting that Hpa An was dangerous after dark (wha?) and that she should chaperone me around. And I swear I heard her say "I Love You" when I left. Haha.
Hpa An Fire DepartmentHpa An Fire Department
Hpa An Fire Department

Jodi will be thrilled they have one now!
Royal LakeRoyal Lake
Royal Lake

Farewell Hpa An. Thanks for the memories...


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