Antarctica! - Day 8, Breaching Whales and Orne Island


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Antarctica » Antarctica » Palmer Station
March 13th 2024
Published: April 18th 2024
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I woke fairly early and was finally starting to feel better after my pesky cold. Thus, I started my new routine: I would get a cup of hot chocolate from Paula's Pantry when it opened at 7am, then go up to the Dome Observation Lounge to read and relax for an hour on my own before we would get breakfast. I am pretty sure we were in Neko Bay that morning, though, as usual, plans change and did that day as well. Typically, I had the lounge to myself and today I was the only person up there, about to go back to my room, when I saw some swimming penguins. I enjoyed them for a couple of minutes, then I noticed something out of the corner of my eye. Did I see a whale breach in the distance? I waited and Yes! I had! I took a few photos and watched as we and it got closer. Then I ran down to my room to get my fancy camera and observe from our balcony. There were two! I got a few more amazing shots before they passed behind us. By now, the crew announced it to everyone and I ran up to the track on the 8th deck where we could see them just breaching constantly from the rear of the ship. It was absolutely incredible and honestly I think this was my most favorite part of my entire trip. It was just so quiet and peaceful to start and then seeing them so frequently showing themselves, I was just in awe.

The day was not over yet, though!

It was also the day of the Polar Plunge, which about half of the people participated. They call those who wish to jump by group, open the mudroom door, and each person goes out with a rope harness around their waist to jump and quickly come back in. We did not. Do I regret not doing it....? Nah. I was super happy with my whales. We enjoyed from Deck 7 watching everyone jump and also seeing penguins in the distance.

On the way out of this bay, we passed super close to a massive iceberg, slowly, and we got to see so much detail of the iceberg it was incredible. Everyone just about was outside on either Decks 5, 7 or 8, trying to get the best view and some good photos. As usual, mine do not it justice.

We returned to near a bay we had visited previously and visited Orne Island to see some more penguins. However, after our group was called down, we got suited up, and approached the zodiac loading area, things were not working out. Each time you go on an excursion, they scan your individual card to keep count of who goes in and out. It is also apparently used to deny entry for various reasons, one of them being alcohol consumption. L was stopped first and was told it was due to alcohol. We had to wait for the cruise director while everyone else boarded, and he asked us how much we had drank today. Um, nothing! We were so confused! We were definitely not the party people and really only drank wine with dinner and occasionally up in the lounge before dinner. After a few minutes, they let us through. I believe it was due to our nightcap of Amarula from the previous evening. We left the glasses in our room which was not cleaned until we were at lunch; I think the glasses from each bar area are unique and are returned to reception and then they marked our room as having alcohol THAT day. So, moving forward, when I did my morning routine, if we had brought glasses back the evening before, I just dropped them at a lounge when I went to get my hot chocolate.

Anyway, Orne Island was also incredible. We saw fur seals as we walked up from the zodiac landing site. However, the highlight here was to see both the chinstrap and gentoo penguins. And boy did we! Immediately, we saw a penguin cross right in front of L, who just stood still so as not to spook it. It looked like a typical penguin 'highway' where penguins follow the same travel patterns.

There was a short path to the left from where we landed which was up a slight icy incline. From here you could get fairly close to the gentoo penguin colonies that were sitting on the rocks. I got partway up, but decided to go back down. I wanted to enjoy the penguin highway and I was lucky and correct! I was there by myself completely for about 5 minutes where i got full view of three penguin amigos who seemed to stick together the whole time I was on the island. I was maybe about 20 feet away as they moved forward. It was honestly magical. I was so happy! Then an older guy approached from the other direction and was seeming to enjoy the moment as well. He took a picture and then started walking right across their planned path, which spooked them and they turned and ran (well, quickly waddled) away. I could have clocked him. I mean, is this not what you came here for?!?!?

Whatever. I stood my ground for a few minutes more, as they slowly approached back to towards me. I also saw a fur seal in the background who was a bit active. There were also a couple of skuas nearby, nasty big birds who prey particularly on penguin eggs and maybe even little penguins. Thankfully, the one I saw was just chilling nearby on the slope.

L joined back up with me and walked to the right to see even more penguins, especially the chinstrap penguins. There was another group of three of them just sitting on the rocks and chilling. They were very different looking to the Gentoo penguins, so you can immediately know which is which. I got so many photos of penguins, I hope they came out well. Again, it's the overall experience that you really just can't capture.

That night, I had eggplant for a starter and pork loin for dinner. Yum. Another Amarula nightcap. At some point later that night, I looked outside and saw giant fat snowflakes which was just mesmerizing against the dark night backdrop. Incredible.


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18th April 2024

What a delightful adventure recounted in "Breaching Whales and Orne Island"!
Your vivid description of their morning routine aboard the ship, complete with a cozy cup of hot chocolate and tranquil moments in the Dome Observation Lounge, sets the stage for an unexpected encounter with nature's wonders. As you witness the playful antics of swimming penguins, your attention is suddenly captured by the majestic sight of breaching whales in the distance. With keen observation and quick thinking, you manage to capture the breathtaking moment on camera and share it with us, the readers. This charming narrative not only transports me to the serene beauty of Orne Island but also reminds me of the unpredictable and awe-inspiring encounters that await me in the natural world. Thank you for sharing this enchanting story—I eagerly await your next adventure!
25th April 2024
Iceberg

Beautiful photo
Fantastic.
25th April 2024
Whale Breach

The whales
The whales are so cool and give us hope.

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