Escape From Harare

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You believe in fate and that everything happens for a reason. You remain in high spirits even though everything seems to be going wrong. You begin to feel trapped and wonder why you can’t escape the city.

Traveling through Africa without a plan or set itinerary is the only way to travel a continent where political unrest, riots and problems can happen at any moment. But poor public transport, now that's another story.

With exploding engines and wheels falling off the axle, transportation in Zimbabwe is both daring and chaotic. In a country where car and bus wrecks are a common site, they serve as a sharp reminder of the risks you take while traveling Africa.

After failing to leave Harare over the last eight days due to bus breakdowns, you try again, not expecting to find yourself stranded at the road side.

The bus company was called Malasha. They had a brochure showing off their pristine buses. the photos looked great and they even allocated seat numbers. This was an attractive option, a complete luxury in Africa.

On arrival at the bus station, everyone climbed on-board while it was overloaded with chickens and rice bags to a toilet bowl and the kitchen sink.

As the engine started with a splutter it was clear there was a problem. As the engine died, passengers shouted, disembarked and sat in the dirt, looking on while the driver dismantled the engine as part of his daily routine.

As bus terminal officials followed bureaucratic rules telling people not to sit outside, a passenger riot kicks off. You find yourself sat in the dirt, trying not to laugh at the mayhem that unfolds.

Climbing back on-board and finally leaving the city is a temporary relief from the scorching heat. As a large woman squashes you into the window seat, her 2 year old proudly sits on your lap comparing skin colour while saying Mzungu over and over again.

While locals watch you’re every move, you casually lift rice bags above your head as passengers squeeze past to embark the overloaded bus.

When you begin to relax and take in the scenery there is a sudden explosion. Carbon monoxide fills the bus while people panic and climb through the windows.

As the smoke clears you are stunned, wondering if you are still alive. You look on in amazement realizing the front of the bus is missing. The driver left sitting in the isle. Women screaming and children crying. Everyone shocked, lucky to be alive.

Looking at the map you soon realize it’s a long way to Blantyre. It's 5pm and dark in an hour. You know another bus will not arrive until morning. You know camping at the side of the road is dangerous. You decide to play it safe and hitch-hike back to the city, the city where you started, Harare.

This ain't no hangover, this is Africa.

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Photos

Malasha bus
The bus before the incident!

Combi (Mini Bus)
The Combi to the bus station

Streets Of Harare
Undercover camera work where photos are illegal!