This is Livingstone, I presume

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We just haven't had many opportunities to use the internet on this trip; even writing post-cards is challenging because with only 12 hours of daylight every evening at the campsite, it's too dark to write. But here now in Livingstone we have two full days with lots of time off and internet at the campsite.

We left Swakopmund and headed north in a truck that didn't work to Etosha National Park. We had to be rescused by a bus to get into the park before night fall when they close the gates . Our driver spent the night at a mechanic shop fixing the truck. Then slept in the truck outside the park gates. That next morning in a truck that finally worked properly, we when on a game drive. We saw springbok , zebra, giraffes, lions, oryx and elephants. The salt pan at Etosha is astonishing , in every direction as far as you can see, the land is flat, white and baking hot. At the campsite there is a watering hole for the animals . We saw a rhino, and a huge procession of elephants plod up to the water and drink . Perhaps as many as 40 elephants, mothers and their small babies in tow. The whole show lasted perhaps 40 minutes from the time they came from the dark landscape, drank under the lights for our benefit, than wander back into the darkness. One of the greatest experiences to see so far.

Then we were driving a lot, but by then the truck was consistently working. We drove south to Windhoek to drop off a few people and pick up some more. We drove into Botswana and the Kalihari . We were treated to bushman singing and dancing in the evening and the next morning a survival walk in the bush. In their language, there really is a series of clicks. We needed a translator.

After the bushmen of the Kalihari we moved north to the Okavango Delta . We took canoes (mokoros) into the delta for two nights of bush camping, no running water, no toilets and no electricity. This was a fabulous experience. As we set up camp, in the distance about 500 m away two elephants were walking. We camped among the elephant dung so they certainly had been there recently. We walked into the park and came across a bull elephant pushing over trees. It's thrilling to be walking with only your guide as protection only a few meters from a completely wild and unpredictable elephant. Later in the evening, we took the mokoros out to see the hippos .

Chobe National Park was our next destination. The sunset river cruise was great, so much variety in such a short time: elephants, hippos, crocodiles, lizards, baboons, vervet monkeys, birds, cape buffalo and the most fabulous sunset yet . The next morning we set off at 5:30am for a game drive. Lions were the big attraction here.

The most interesting border crossing so far was across the Zambezi from Botswana to Zambia. It's a ferry crossing. Trucks are the last priority and there is a very long line, possibly two weeks long to cross the river. Tourists and overland trucks are first . We walked onto the ferry. As we were climbing on the ferry the captain started to raise the gangplank so we had to jump up and run - thrilling. It's hot, chaotic, dusty and so much fun. On the Zambian side we all had to pay for a visa, different amounts depending on nationality - Canadians $50 but the British on the trip had to pay nearly $150. The whole border crossing took about three hours, although the river is only about 200 meters wide.

We are now half way. Livingstone, Zambia. Here we drop off a few passengers and pick up a few more heading north to Nairobi. Later we'll see Victoria Falls and tomorrow I'll ride an elephant. We went shopping today at the market - let's make a deal .

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Photos

Victoria Falls
Ever seen a sideways rainbow?

On a mokoro
Okavango Delta, Botswana

Sunset on the Okavango Delta
Botswana

Riding the elephant
At Victoria Falls, Zambia

Elephant at the Watering Hole
Etosha National Park, Namibia

Giraffe
Etosha National Park, Namibia

It's hot out there
Zebras in Etosha National Park, Namibia

San Bushman
Botswana

Comments

[Chris and Nikki]

Amazing picture!