Africa - Part 3: Kilimanjaro the Great August 21-24

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Here’s what it was like climbing up Africa’s highest mountain... The longer version of Ironman that I forgot to train for.



In the week leading up to the climb I organized the date of my climb and booked a team of professionals to accompany me. Normally this is done months in advance, and for a much higher cost than the total $1000 it would cost me (Normal prices range from $1500-8000), but because I have African friends, I had some help.

Aug 21: I took a bus to meet me tour guide near the mountain. “Guide Richard brotha“, he called himself. He is 50 years old and has climbed Kilimanjaro to the peak 81 times. He helped me get a great discount on the equipment, and get to the entrance of the mountain park quickly. I also had a personal cook and porter as part of my team. On the waiver form, there were two options for climbing pace: 5 or 6 days. I was hoping to do it in 4. When I asked Richard how fast we could climb the mountain potentially, he said 3. “Lets try for 3 then“, I told him. We left at about 12:00.

By the end of the first day we had hiked with loaded bags uphill for 7 hours through jungle like trees, an area of short trees, and then upto the level that has no trees. I got Richard to teach me some swahili, spent some time listening to Buckminster Fuller on my ipod, and spent some time in silence looking at the beautiful scenery around me. By 17:00 I started anticipating rest & dinner. I had no energy for conversation. We hiked on until we reached the second camp, “Horumbo“, at 19:30. I was exhausted and devoured dinner. Mmmm... sleep.



Aug 22:I awoke at 7am, ate breakfast, and we began our climb at 8:30am. Today was a sinch. Makoze, my porter carried my backpack on top of his head, and I had fun taking detours off the path to climb some rock faces while everyone else moved in one dimension. As we neared the third camp, “Kibo“, I started getting cold. That’s when I made a big mistake. Thinking about my upcoming rest, I deliberately kept myself cool because I thought it would help me sleep. After eating a snack my lips were blue from the cold and I was tired. I thought sleeping would solve my problems, but instead things only got worse.

Kibo is the last camp before the peak, and most people spend a full day there before ascending to give their body time to adapt to the increased altitude of 4700m. Then on the next night, everyone leaves at about 11pm and hikes up in the dark. I was going to leave the same night. But as I layed in my sleeping bag and put on layer after layer, I couldnt sleep or warm up. When my head started hurting I realized I was in trouble. I became sick with a fever and couldnt eat or even drink anything. No dinner tonight, but I told Richard that I wanted to continue... I layed there shivering till 21:00 and then fell asleep for about an hour. When I awoke I forced my body out of bed, walked outside, and vomited all over the place. I could see that I wasnt fit for climbing a mountain. I took altitude sickness pills, and vitamin C with water, but later vomited those up too. At 23:00, it was time to leave for the final stretch to the peak. I watched everyone gear up, and then Richard came and asked me if what I wanted to do. To fight or to flight... I told Richard that I wasnt ready, but to come back for me in a couple hours. And then I was alone. Again I walked out into the night, sat on a rock, and vomited. When I looked up at the mountain I saw the headlamps of the other hikers about 1/3 the way to the top, and I thought “How can I do this? God, please help me.“

Aug 23, 2:00am: When Richard came to wake me, I was already awake. I had slept for about half an hour. “Are you able?“, he asked me. “Lets go“, I said nodding. I couldnt eat the food he offered me, I wanted nothing, but had a cup of tea with extra sugar. I took a few small sugar biscuits in my pocket too. I went outside to vomit again, but found that I didnt need to. I saw that the hikers had spread out now and most of them were about half way up. “1 km of elevation to go,“ I thought, “thats like the grouse grind... Could I do that right now like this? ...I don’t know, but Im going to give everything I have to make it to the top.“



Richard & I began to ascend a steep rocky slope at about 2:45. “Pole pole“, he told me, which means “slowly slowly“. The mountainside was steep now, and the path zig-zagged up the rocky slope. It was completely black except for the stars and my headlamp. The night was totally silent except for the crunch of rocks as we walked. One more step... One more step... Each step I took was only the length of my shoe but required more air than one breath could supply. Every 2 seconds – I timed it. I was dead tired and wanted to collapse from fatigue. “If only my head would stop throbbing,“ I thought.

Sometimes a difficult physical challenge forces me to ask how hard Im willing to push myself. Then I tell myself that the measure that I give here is the measure that I will give in life. So despite the mountain rules that said anyone experiencing altitude sickness descend immediately, I put everything I had into another step towards the peak, the highest possible end to be achieved. I kept my heart rate at 120-130, and listened constantly to what my body was telling me. And I forced a buscuit into my stomach every hour or so, and some water, tea, advil, altitude sickness pills, and vitamin C.

The sun came into view when we were almost halfway to the top, illuminating Kenya below us. So beautiful. Soon we were 2/3 the way there by the looks of it, and some people were already on their way down from the summit. “2 hours to go“, Richard told me. “It looks as though I am going to make it“, I thought. Then 1 hour, 30 minutes, and finally we were at the top... of the rocky slope. I saw that it was not the peak though. “Congratulations“, the sign said, “you’ve reached Gilmans point, altitude 5670m“. I was immensely discouraged. It would be another 2 hours to make it to the actual peak, which is 5895m. By now most of the other hikers had passed us on their way down, and I had been so eager to get down to lower altitudes & recover.The last thing on my mind was to keep going deeper into this hole I was digging... or rather mountain I was climbing. It was 9:30am. Richard suggested we descend now because of how late it was and my condition. I still had a headache, weakness/fatigue, and couldn’t eat. Another group of people passed us on their way down and their tour guide suggested to us that we stop here. I told Richard that I was thinking the same thing. “I’ll confirm my choice after a cup of tea though.“ Looking forward at the peak, I wondered if my body was able. And what would happen if it was not.

“Lets continue for 15 minutes, or until we get past that rock, and then decide whether to turn back,“ I said. Once we began walking, another passing tour guide said I should turn back. I didn’t know whether or not to take the advice, but kept going until “Uhuru Peak“ was in reach. I could see glaciers beside me, clouds below, Tanzania on one side, Kenya on the other. There were a few others arriving at the peak before me. When we approached it I stopped 20 meters before the sign and let the realization of success hit me. It was as thought suddenly all the pain I had endured & the questioning of whether Id make it, had been worth this moment because I had conquored every hurdle, mentle & physical. I let the emotion run through me. Id earned it. I was crying now. My head was throbbing with pain and I was weak thoughout my body, but I was intensely happy. After collecting myself, I walked up to the sign at 11:42 and shouted “Bwana Safiwe!!!“ as loud as I could.

After 20 minutes of soaking in good vibes, tea, & sunshine, we left at 12:00. I was the last one to leave the peak. Richard & I took 9 hours up (2:45-11:42) and 1.75 hours down (12:00-13:45). We practically skied down the grainy rocks with our boots. We reached Kibo huts and I ate watermellon & fries. I was feeling much better. Then we walked 3 hours to the next lower camp, I had a few bites of dinner, and then slept solidly. It was a long day.



Aug 24: I had a headache & was exhausted when I got up today, but Richard & I managed to run downhill most of the way to the bottom of the mountain from 7:30-11:00. The total time to finish was just under 72 hours. Then we ate lunch together & had a cheers Richard was a great guide, and he gave me great discounts. If anzone want’s to climb with him, tell me. Ironically, I completed the Ironman Triathlon 4 years ago today, August 24th. Kilimanjaro was harder. Maybe Ill train for it next time... I learned at least 2 things that I’ll share here: 1 – if you want to climb Kilimanjaro fast, expect altitude sickness. And wear your clothes. 2 – sometimes everyone, even the experts, tell you that you cant do it. Consider what they say, but look within yourself and trust your own convictions too.

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Photos

Horumbo huts
About halfway up the mountain

Uhuru Peak
Richard, my tour guide, & I were both very happy to reach the top

tip toes
every inch counts!

Start climbing
walking in bare feet

Day 1 afternoon
starting to get tired

too cool
This is how I started to get cold

fresh
This time of year had less snow.

Kilimanjaro's sunset
let there be light...

...one more step
up the Hill