Safari self drive self catering just us and the animals - Kruger

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Kruger

Heading south and our self drive Safari-Kruger

After our 4 hour Rwandan flight we taxied into Tambo International airport at Jossie in South Africa.
Bought a nice big bottle of Absolut, changed some dollars for Rand and jumped the shuttle to our overnight accomodation.
Caught up with Rita and Ros, two of our fellow tourers from our Morocco tour and it was really good to see familar faces.
They took us on a city tour of 'Jossie' short for Johassesburg which looked a bit old and yes dark in spots, but did have some beautiful old heritage buildings and it was a great opportunity to get a locals insight into living in South Africa in 2010. We crossed the Nelson Mandella bridge to a local Portugese restaurant (ex Mozambique) - probably the best meal since arriving in Southern Africa. As we drove around the sububurbs to and from the restaurant we did both feel quite awakened by all the fences around houses, often accompanied by broken glass or razor/barbed wire. Made us think of how accessible our homes are in Australia and we hope that never changes.
Next morning, partly because we felt so relieved not to be on an organized tour, (which we had been for the last month) our pack up skills seemed to be on 'Slowmo' and our intended 8.30 departure became 10.30! But, as we got into our little rental car with our '29ers', our Absolut, and Barb version 2 (GPS) we both just felt a lovely sense of relief and freedom. We were off to the famous Kruger for 9 days self drive Safari. Stopped off at Nelspruit for a grocery shop which is a challenge in this country for us non red meat eaters, passed by many black townships (shanty towns) - where the original indigenous South Africans live, got pulled over by a black police woman for a document check, and then hit the Orpen gate of Kruger with 2 minutes to spare - they close from 6-6 each day and lock you In/out.
Checked into our en-suite Safari tent at Tambotti rest camp on the edge of the Tambavati river for 2 glorious nights with our tent overlooking the dry fenced river bed and from our balcony we were able to see Kudus, Hyenas, monkeys and Lion tracks in the morning. At night with a full moon and a glass of Absolut we had many sightings and much "roaring". The next morning we were greeted by the Hornbill - 'for the morning report' - and an attempt to steal breakfast between it and the vevet monkeys.
Our drives out each day gave us closeup and timely sightings of Giraffes, Elephants, Cheetahs, a large pride of Lions setting off on sunset predation, the striped back Jackel and a range of colurful birds - PLUS a rare sighting of a pearl spotted Owl in daylight by 'hawkeye Corrie'
Having purchased a second pair of Binnocculars the next leg was a long slow Safari drive to our own clock to Oliphants, just so good to be able to spend concentrated amounts of time observing the animals and their behaviour pattens. Our highlighst were early in the morning we stopped for another Leopard up a tree and this was closest ever sighting and we sat 10m away for as long as we wanted, next was 30 Hippos arising from siesta on the bank and progressing to the river for cool off, and then spotted a rare and endangered family, only 90 existing, the saddle billed stork male and female with chick to boot.
During this enjoyable leg with time to stop and observe for longer, we did appreciate the knowledge gained up in East Africa from the guides and it did allow us to now have a fuller appreciation of how to self Safari.
Oliphants camp was perched high on a cliff edge overlookings the Oliphants River and from our rooms we were able to have our sundowners and watch Hippos, Waterbucks, large herds of Elephants making their way across the river beds protecting their young from potential predators to the night stop under the Mopani trees, Giraffe, and Baboons. We would spend hours spotting game in the river through our Binnocs., the Lilac breasted roller, michievious Vervet monkeys who could open a fridge in 30 secs - even with 2 chairs in front of it  - so each sleep it was turn the fridge to the wall time. These were three wonderful days with a return to relaxation and siesta overlooking the spreading trans-border park into Mozambique which is the major threat for Ivory poaching and in the last month one Rhino a day had been savagely dispossed of it's horn while still alive.  
Up early at 6.30 we departed for 227km drive to the South east corner of the park and Berg en Dal camp. Kruger is in all 350km long and 60km wide and the speed limit is 50kph which leads to travel at radar controlled speed plus anywhere up to 2.5 hours more for stopping to look. The weather through these days was bright and sunny and averaged 25 degree C - perfect for Safari and us. Our morning began quite slowly with the sun just coming up we spotted a few of our favourites here and there but tried to keep on the move due to long day ahead and had decided just to stop for extra specials. First of those, one hour along was our first ever lone Oribi, a small fawn coloured deer/antelope  character and managed a few close face on photos. Happy with that we moved on to be confronted with a turning car whose occupants had spotted a Cheetah with her cubs. We watched as she interacted with the cubs for a while and then she began sniffing the air and started in the direction of the Oribi speeding up her jog with the two cubs playfully following 50 metres back. Occasionally she looked back to make sure her cubs were following but her main attention was the upwind Oribi. We turned and followed and in a short time she accellerated into full speed for our first observed chase and possibly kill. Our eyes were darting between each of the four animals each for different reasons and it was incredible to watch each and every one of them. At this time, no time for photos, no getting out of the car, just peer into those binnocs and enjoy nature while it imprints your brain. Much to our surprise the Oribi sidestepped the Cheetahs first lunge, and the Cheetah can run at 110kph but only over a short distance. We were later told that the Oribi can also run at high speed but for longer and this day it ran for it's life, sidestepped the second lunge and the Cheetah was done------ we were so excited by nature at work and Corrie thought she was going to have the last photo of that Oribi - so on we drove leaving a very disappointed, shoulders down Cheetah mum with no lesson or breakfast for the cubs --------- and still no kill for us.
Our other new sightings for that day was a group of Sable Antelopes and a pair of Great Southern Hornbills. 
At 2.30 after a picnic lunch stop at Skakusa we reached Berg en Dal - only 8 hours to do 227 km!
Now for the next different experience we had booked a three day wilderness bushmans trail which involved Safaris on foot.
Loaded up with two armed guides, Oris and Rodney, and 6 other safarietts - family of 4 from UK, Caroline, David, Alec and Tab, a local from 'Jossie', Dean, and a Brazilian doctor, Enrique who had just spent 6 months in Mozambiquie fighting AIDS with Doctors Sans Fronteir.
As we headed for our camp the first stop was for a guide to remove a large Leopard tortise safely to the bush and then on to the granite hills of the South west edge of the park. We were told we could expect sightings of Rhino, Buffalo, elephants but because we would be on foot their was new rules and Etiquette to observe. A great experince to top all the others we had enjoyed, and a fun group with good personalities and everyone including Tab would enjoy the 20km+ walks we would do in the cool of the morning before Brunch. Our 2 highlights were coming very close and being able to observe for a long time, the behaviour of the White Rhinos and the Water Buffalos but always downwind and with the rifles in sight. "'hawkeye C" also spotted a rare leopard in this area as we drove out one night for sundowners - guides were most impressed.
Henry,  our camp chef/carer cooked great meals, cleaned, made beds and looked after all our needs. Good chats around the camp fire at night under the amazing Milky Way and snakes in the toilet all added to a healthy and fun experience.
Finalized Kruger with a last night in Pretoriaskop camp and a full private, 5 metre from, baby Rhino and mother out Corrie's car window WOW- we did not linger as the baby approached the car and Mum (twice as big as the car) jumped and puffed on all fours at once - bye for now as we headed back to safety of fenced camp by 6 and the next day to Pretoria for our next leg of the adventure.

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Photos

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Our Safari tent at Tambottii in Kruger

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Corrie is really enjoying her new camera

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Kudu from our tent balcony Kruger SA

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Keeping an eye on our breakfast.

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Ready for the chase - Cheetah

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Lovely long eye lashes

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Majestic profile

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Reticulated Giraffe

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Always large herds of Gazelles

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"Bums of Africa"

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An Elephant eats half his weight every day taking 16 hours.

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White Rhinos are fairly non agressive unless with Baby.

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Ready to depart our Straw roof hut on the Wilderness Trail.

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A beer and Absolut atop a rock in Kruger Wilderness trail.

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The magic of sundown in Africa.

Comments

[Janet Vanson]

OMG
Simply amazing.... the appeal of moving to Tassie has totally been lost in your amazing adventures. While packing cardboard boxes has it's moments I know where I'd rather be. The highlight of my day is finding another roll of packing tape and for you..... wow!!!! Keep those newsletters coming, stay safe and enjoy, enjoy, enjoy. Love Janet