Johannesburg

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Upon arrival into Jo'burg, I head out on a driven tour of Soweto (i.e. South Western Township) - this being a 'drive' as we are not allowed out for our own safety. However, safety is not so much a concern as I am taken by surprise by how little poverty there is in the Township. Of course, there remains pockets of deprivation but noweher near on the scale that there was 5 years ago (this being confirmed by a friend who had visited 5 years ago). Where there was once wrinkly tin / zinc sheds is now small single storey well equipped houses. I would even go as far to say that I have seen worse esattes in England! One place where we are allowed out of the van is Nelson Mandela's house. Despite being a small site, it does have a great sense of history and depicts the troubles that both Nelson and his wife, Winnie, suffered over the years. It lies on the only street where two nobel peace prize winners have lived - Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu who lived across the road!

The following day, Dan (Aussie guy off our overland trip) and I decide to stay three more days on Jo'burg - at the Acoustix Hostel in the Ramburg district. This isn't the most pleasant district and are advised not to go out at night and even avoid certain parts of Jo'burg during the daytime. So, we decide to ignore this advise and head out to the apartheid museum using only public transport. Such transport consists of small unmarked 'sooty' vans, which you hail down on the street. We succeed and are crammed into the back of these vans (up to 17 people at a time). The vans operate quite a co-operative payment system; you have to arrnage it all between yourselves so chaotic changing of money ensues as soon as you get into the vehicle! We get dropped off at the almost incomrehendable main terminus in Jo'burg - throughout our journey we don't see one white person...sticking out like two sore thumbs is an understement. However, we don't get any hassle and some of the locals seem pleased to see some 'outsiders'. The journey is well worth it as the apartheid museum is an enlightenig place highlighting the struggles that have gone and those that remain. This is emphasised further during the following night when Dan and I join two locals from the hostel for an evening drink at an Irish bar; this requires walking over two parks at night, perhaps not the best thing to do but all is safe and sound!...the walk was required owing to a burst water main at the hostel then the water authority cutting through the electric wire! The two locals chat to us about South Africa and their fears of a coming civil war - their fear originates from the current president and the ANC youth leader who are both encouraging hatred amongst the differing ethic groups; mainly black South African, Zulu origin and white South Africa. It's such a shame that most I have spoken to throughout the trip are fearful of South Africa falling into disarray, particularly when so much good has been done over the years. Hopefully, they will be wrong.

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