PE Lessons, Pirates and in to the Transkei


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Published: June 3rd 2006
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Another place, another city, another abbreviation - PE, Port Elizabeth, the "friendly city". As it was a compulsory stopover for the bus, we had no choice but to stay - however, it was hardly the most inspired venue we've visited. We'd been the only two on the bus and being 2 hours early, we were treated to an impromptu city tour. It was only 8 o'clock, but the undesirables were already out and about and there was a Moss-side feel to the streets - on reflection that is a little unfair to Moss-side. We stayed by the beach - clearly a reasonably desirable suburb when Fedders was seeking his coastal entertainment in these parts! However, a promenade, a boardwalk and performing dolphins are hardly the stuff world travelling is about.

We were glad to leave PE behind us and equally glad to have chosen not to stay at East London, which appeared to have all the same scary mary qualities and arrived in Cintsa.

Cintsa has been a good base for a few days - Buccaneers was a sort of backpacker village arranged in various chalets on a hillside overlooking the beach and lagoon and being further north it's warm. We ended up in a 3 bedroom seaview chalet to ourselves. After a few days without a planned activity, Miranda was a bit restless and so it was horse riding on the beach. Miranda's horse, Umphiti, had a passion for being last in the field and a desire to lie down in the lagoon water, which was exactly what one horse did despite contrary instruction from a more experienced rider. Meanwhile, John overcame the initial assessment of the guide who thought that he wouldn't be able to "hack it" (which was a bit harsh with all that 2004 Arizona experience) and survived.

The Transkei former homeland was our first taste of real Africa on this trip, leaving behind White Man's Africa (at least for a day). The old South African regime conveniently forgot to build any roads before handing the land over, nor many bridges and so it was an excuse for a ferry over a river allegedly full of 3 metre bull sharks. A different world of mud rondavel houses, Xhosa villgaes, open grazing, 4WD tracks rather than roads etc. The area is full of old folk and kids - the adults all away working in the
John and KelaJohn and KelaJohn and Kela

Ready for the 1.30 at Redcar - I don't think so!!
big cities. A day full of open spaces, gorges, waterfalls and the Wild Coast - seriously wild coast as the ship wreck piccies show. The weather back in Cintsa started to get really warm, the mozzies came out and when we failed to win a free breakfast in a backpacker treasure hunt, we knew it was time to move on - only 10 hours to Durban!!


Additional photos below
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Ferry across the KeiFerry across the Kei
Ferry across the Kei

Please don't sink - there are Bull Sharks in here!!
TranskeiTranskei
Transkei

The former border post with RSA
TranskeiTranskei
Transkei

Traffic Jam
SuntanSuntan
Suntan

Miranda's tan is coming on nicely!
Xhosa VillageXhosa Village
Xhosa Village

Another rondavel
Transkei WaterfallTranskei Waterfall
Transkei Waterfall

We want to be together!
ShipwreckShipwreck
Shipwreck

The wreck of the Jacaranda
TranskeiTranskei
Transkei

Nelson Mandela's pad in the Transkei
Morgan BayMorgan Bay
Morgan Bay

It's been a hard day!
Wild Coast AdventuresWild Coast Adventures
Wild Coast Adventures

The travelling group


17th September 2023

PE and the Wild Coast
Gosh, even nearly 20 years apart, our trips were so similar! I too gave PE and East London a wide berth, and headed straight for Chintsa. I also felt the huge difference heading through the Transkei. I get, and love, your humour by the way - Moss Side comparisons, and "We want to be together!" - hilarious! 🤣
19th September 2023

PE & The Wild Coast
Thanks for the kind words. The PE comparison with a suburb of an industrial city in North West England derives from 3 years at Uni in the early 1980s ... a comment that some of the reading audience would 'get", but my late parents would not (and therefore not worry)!

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