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Dani and Goatsmilk
Thanks to Longtooth Dani never had to wait long for some goodies! We'd heard from one or two travellers about a place called Bulungula that although run by a white guy, was owned predominantly by the local community and in addition to only using gas and solar power, were 100% eco friendly. We decided to check it out and needed to pre book a shuttle as once again it was in very remote 4wd territory. The shuttle ride lasted a couple of hours and along the way Dave, the "whitie" told us very interesting stories of his extensive travels and of how he came to be at Bulungula including the walk along hundreds of km of coastline to find the perfect spot and the years of working with, training, educating and convincing the locals that this was a great oppurtunity for them too. We stopped to collect some other guests who had driven their car as far along the "road" as they could, and also to get some stout for the last part of the journey. Throughout the hills, fields and villages all the kids ran to the road to wave and practice their hellos including one boy of only about four who simply stood leaning in the doorway of his family hut,
Rocket Shower
Pour parafin into the spout, light it and let the games begin! puffing on a cigarette and giving us the thumbs up. One of the things Dave had told us was that we wouldn't come across people asking for handouts as they had learnt the value and importants of providing goods or a service in return for money. This was refreshing as we were already beginning to tire of the countless numbers of women and children asking for sweets and or money. One of the local staff showed us around the premises showing us how to use a long drop toilet and the amazingly colourful rocket showers, recycling bins, all important self serve beer fridge and what we came to know as "The window to the World." Located in a corner of the kitchen, the window to the world seemed to be the only place for miles that received mobile reception and at all times there were no less than a dozen phones lined up along the window sill and at least two people talking on their phone whilst dodging frying pans and potjies! Once we settled in to the rustic and bare bones feel that made this place already seem so special we were invited to a party in the village.
Crayfish Haggle
These guys wanted R20 for five of these bad boys. What a bargain! About eight of us took up the offer and on the hike into the village learnt that we were actually going to a wake. We squeezed into a hut with the family of a deceased girl and although a bit uncomfortable at first got into the spirit of the rituals, dancing, music and praying that was taking place. It wasn't long before the ceremonial goats milk, beer, tequila and ganja were being passed around. When in Rome! One lady in particular who we came to know as Longtooth, took a shining to Dani and made sure she never went long without one of the goodies that were doing the rounds. The next morning we were still in awe of what we witnessed and took part in the night before. For me in particular, the trainee songormas dancing in a trance was a highlight. We walked for miles along the beach sharing it's rugged beauty with only a few locals fishing, picking oysters and catching crayfish, a heap of cows, donkeys, goats and sheep. Another of the locals took us to visit a few of his friends in the village including a herbalist in his workshop and a young boy tending
Wake Dancing
Getting into the swing of things. the family plot whilst the adults celebrated at the wake which we found out first hand was still in full swing. We were ushered back into the same hut as the previous night and immediately all the goodies were passed around including meat from the ceremonial goat whos bloody carcass was lying on the floor next to me. After an hour of them sharing with us all that they had we tried to leave but they were having none of it and formed a dancing wall around us with Longtooth at the helm preventing us from going anywhere.The next day was spent swimming, playing with the local kids and collecting firewood for a full moon bonfire we were planning to have that night. Before the bonfire, and with Kris and Laurel, we grabbed a stash of beer and headed back into the village, this time with the aim of sharing what we had with the locals. The beer, tobacco and ganja went down a treat, particularly with Simon, our new friend and guide who was hopefully going to get us safely to Coffee Bay the next day via a thirty km eight hour hike. The full moon bonfire was amazing
Dani with some local kids
Took along time to convince the locals the water was safe, but once they were in... and we sat up 'til the early hours probably drinking a bit too much (except goodie two shoes Henderson of course!) considering the scale of the day we had ahead of us. Although he promised a seven AM start, Simon arrived at half eight (Africa time!) looking almost as seedy as a few of his new followers. Many emotions took hold that morning as we stole our final glances of Bulungula. Predominantly ones of disappointment at having to leave such a special place, but also a mix of excitement at the adventure that lay ahead, wonder and awe (and a touch of jealousy) at the simpleness of the lives of our new friends and how they managed to live them with so much faith, heart and generosity and finally some guilt for all the things we have in the first world to which we dont even give a second thought. We felt that every rand we spent here was directly helping someone in the community, and that made us feel good!
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Emma
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bulungula memories
Wow...i really enjoyed reading this so much-- i stayed at bulungula last august and have to agree with everything you say. it was one of the most beautiful places i have ever been! when we were there we were treated to a party thrown for dave's fiancee (now wife i think!) and also to celebratory drinks for a man returning from the mines...singing "shosholoza" until quite late... hope the rest of your travels go well! thanks for the stories!