Seychelles Syndrome


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Africa » Seychelles » Mahé
July 7th 2009
Published: July 7th 2009
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Landing in Seychelles is fab, flying in low over the water, islands all around. I had this sense of Magnum PI the whole time. Strange. Would hate to think Magnum PI was formative for me, but i guess there were a number of monday evening TV dinners watching it when i grew up.

The international airport represents one half of Seychelles - small and modest. The other side (or other half) lives a different life. For tourists, or semi-permanent residents, life is large, with yachts, private islands, helicopters, and luxury. I hope they keep the 'small' Seychelles - the landscape is more than enough, and the trappings of the mega-wealthy are not necessary to enjoy the country. Having said this, it's not cheap to visit - a fair distance from most places, and food and everything else is imported, so pretty pricey.

My work didn't let me explore as much as i would have liked to but a drive around Mahe gave me a feel, and a helicopter ride gave me a bird's eye view. If you like humidity and endless rolling ocean, and perfect bays, lots of verdant foliage, small roads (bad driving), then it's up your alley. I managed one fantastic swim although the waves took me by surprise. I happen to like them too (when it comes to the ocean, small isnt always best), fortunately, although there are many bays with hardly a ripple for those less keen to be chucked around (and sandy afterwards).

I hear there is a tourist promotion campaign called Seychelles Secrets, marketing the smaller and less upmarket offerings. Worth checking out.

Seychelles doesn't have the same kind of deep poverty as many other African countries. The official line is that there full employment. But I dare say that the cost of living is high for locals, with most stuff imported. But i didnt get the sense that life was that bad (perhaps a little boring if you are adventurous). Also there seems to be some property protection, which is good, so hopefully the island won't be bought up and turned into the Florida Keys, or something else with no character.

As a tourist I reckon the great thing would be that Mahe (I didnt get to explore Praslin or La Digue) is big enough to explore, but not huge. I reckon a few days driving around trying out different restaurants, hanging on the beaches, and generally taking it slow, would be great. Combined with snorkeling, scuba, yachting and so on, you can keep busy. There are turtles too, a big attraction. Just watch out you don't bump up against the rich and famous, i hear they like their privacy.


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