Trouble in paradise

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When you think of Mozambique, what comes to mind?

Never ending dazzling white beaches, gorgeous turquoise blue lagoons, coral reefs, magical old towns and prawns the size of your fist.

It doesn't? Why not?

Probably, because the only knowledge you have of Mozambique comes from pictures on TV disaster relief appeals.

Not only is Mozambique beautiful and the people welcoming, but it also has the added bonus that most of the world´s tourists haven´t made it here yet. A tropical paradise.

But... there is trouble in paradise. The food security crisis that I mentioned in Swaziland in my last blog is also a problem in Mozambique. The problem is a regional one. In Mozambique 400,000 are at risk, in the region up to 10 million are estimated at risk this December. The problem is as much about the HIV pandemic as the drought the region has suffered for the last 4 years. HIV removes the most productive members of society, reducing agricultural productivity.

"Rich countries are failing to learn the lessons of the Niger food crisis as up to 10 million people in southern Africa face severe food shortages...Money is desperately needed now from rich countries so that charities, governments and the UN can prevent the crisis from worsening."

OXFAM PRESS RELEASE 8th SEPTEMBER 2005 (www.oxfam.org.uk)

In Niger, nothing was done until pictures of starving babies appeared in the media. No more starving babies. It doesn't have to happen. Make poverty history.

At the end of the last blog I had just arrived in Maputo and booked into the IBIS Hotel. I then spent a few days chilling out in the city. I stayed in Maputo from the 24th to the 29th of August. I spent most of the day on the 25th working on the last blog. For the rest of my time in Maputo, I spent the time relaxing. I enjoyed soaking up the atmosphere of the city, the fine pavement cafe's, and excellent prawns. Despite Mozambique's poverty many people have a surprising amount of style. The city is still a bit run down and seedy, but that only added to its charm. On the 28th of August I moved from the IBIS to the Pestana Rovuma Hotel, it was closer to the cafe's and had an excellent view of Independence Square from the balcony of my room. The only thing that was a pain, was the 30 minutes queues for the cash machines.

TUESDAY 30th

I finally left Maputo. I caught a taxi to the bus stop at 10.30am. I was intending to get to Inhambane. At the bus stop I was recruited onto a coach that was going to Maxixe. The tout assured me that it went to Inhabane. I took his word for it. It left almost straight away, I was obviously one of the last passengers they needed to recruit. The roads were good for about 2/3rds of the way, but then degenerated. We were diverted onto dirt tracks because of road works. One thing I noticed which I thought was interesting, was that I noticed some women working in the road crews. It was a long journey, and it got dark fairly early. At 6pm, in the dark, we stopped at a road junction. The driver said that this was the place to get off for Inhabane. It looked like it was in the middle of nowhere, it certainly wasn't near the centre of the town. It was dark, I had no idea how far it was to the centre of the town. So, I decided not to get off the bus, but instead to carry on to Maxixe.

Half an hour later we arrived at the bus station in Maxixe. It's a small, dusty and ugly town. It's not a tourist destination. The place was dead. I wasn't met by loads of touts offering to guide me, as I would have been in a tourist spot. I wandered around the square near the bus stop, looking for somewhere to stay the night. Within a few minutes I found the Oceania Hotel, not far from the bus station, it cost me 400,000 Meticais (that's about 10 pounds sterling). It was a dump. The floor and the walls were dirty and the plumbing was dodgy, but it did have an on suite toilet, which to be honest was a bit of a mixed blessing! I dumped my bags and went straight back out to try to find somewhere to eat, as I hadn't eaten properly all day. The town appeared to be closed up, it was dead. Any street food stalls the town might have, had given up for the day. After wandering around for half an hour I eventually found a restaurant that was open, so I got myself something to eat. But it was dire, overcooked and tasteless. I returned to my room and had an early night.

WEDS 31st

I left Maxixe at 10am by ferry, having spent half an hour in a queue for money at the town's ATM. It was a short trip, and the sea was a flat as a pancake - there was no swell at all. At the other side in Inhambane I phoned Bomboozi Backpackers in Tofo. They had rooms available. I asked someone, where the chapa's (minibuses) left from. After a short hot walk I found the buses at the towns market. I was recruited onto the bus and waited for half an hour for the bus to fill. At 11.35 I finally arrived in Tofo. Tofo, is a village that has become a bit of a backpackers resort. The Lonely Planet describes it as a backpackers paradise. Personally I'm a bit leery of places that the Lonely Planet describes as great travelers hangouts. Maybe, I don't appreciate 'backpacker culture' (whatever that might be). Anyway, Tofo is still a nice village, with a great beach, good surfing and diving opportunities.

The bus dropped me in the centre of Tofo. I walked along the beach to Bomboozi Backpackers. I got there at 12.05. There was a man behind the counter of the reception talking into his cellphone, ignoring me. I noticed that there was a notice at reception saying that the reception was closed from 12 till 2pm. The man, who I think worked in the place (he was discussing bills), continued to ignore me, walking away from the reception desk and continuing his discussion for the next 20 minutes. I was a bit pissed with him. After 15 minutes I wondered off, and walked around the place. I found the bar. At the bar, I explained that I wanted to book in, and that I had even phoned in advance. The (white) woman said to wait in the bar till 2pm. I told her that if no one was prepared to book me in then I would go elsewhere. I walked out. As I was leaving the man who had been ignoring me at the reception, who had a South African accent apologized for ignoring me. I wasn't prepared t accept his apology and told him that I was going elsewhere. This particular backpackers is highly recommended in the Lonely Planet guidebook. I was in Mozambique, yet all the staff appeared to be white, except for the security guard.

So, I walked back down the beach into Tofo. At Tofo, I thought I would try a hotel rather than a backpackers. I walked into the hotel. They wanted 1,000,000 Mts for a room. I tried to bargain him down to 600,000 Mts (about 15 pounds). He wasn't prepared to budge very far. I noticed though that his room booking book had nothing in it. So, it's very likely that he was going to have empty rooms. The village was not busy. He was prepared to move a little on his price, but I stuck to my price of 600,000Mts. He pointed out that his price included breakfast. I told him I didn't eat hotel breakfasts, and that it wasn't a selling point. I walked out, telling him I would get a room elsewhere. He didn't run after me.

I walked back up the beach to Fatima's Nest backpackers. They didn't ignore me! Not only that, the staff were friendly, they were locals not white South Africans. I got myself a private bungalow on the beach with shared washing and toilet facilities for 350,000 Mts. The toilets though left a little to be desired - they were flooded. I chilled out for the rest of the day. In the evening I had an interesting chat with a group of English women and a Norwegian man. The Norwegian had spent the last 3 months travelling around the whole of the Southern African region on a push bike. He had also taken his bike in the past to many other remote places. I know that I wouldn't have the energy to bike around Africa.

THURSDAY 1st SEPTEMBER

I left Tofo at 8am, catching the chapa (bus) to Inhambane. As we were pulling away from Tofo, a woman ran to catch the bus. I noticed that she forgot to pick up her handbag. So, I shouted for the bus to stop. The bus stopped and backed up. I pointed out where I thought the woman had left her handbag. The conductor got off the bus, found the handbag and handed it back to the woman.

In Inhabane I caught the ferry back to Maxixe, doing the return journey I had done before. But this time there was a considerable swell. The little ferry felt very vulnerable, and we were splashed by water several times. The ferry arrived in Maxixe at 10.30am. I took a second breakfast to kill some time, as the through bus I was trying to catch wasn't due till at least noon. I was catching a bus to Vilankulo, which is Mozambique main tourist destination. Vilankulo, is a small town on the coast that is a good base for visiting the Bazaruto Archipeligo Marine National Park. An area of unspoilt turquoise blue lagoons and carol reefs. After my second breakfast I walked to the Maxixe bus station and waited...

The bus didn't arrive at noon. It eventually rolled up at 1.30pm. The roads were reasonable for most of the way, but there were considerable stretches of dirt track. Mostly, where the road was being re-built.

I arrived in Vilankulo at 5.30pm. As I got down from the bus, I knew I was in tourist land, as I was mobbed by a crowd of kids all wanting to be my guide. I ignored them, picked my backpack up and rushed at them using my bag as a shield in front of me. They parted. It would be dark soon. I needed to find somewhere quickly. I walked down the road from the bus stop. I made my way towards the beach front. I knew that there were some places to stay on the beach front. At the beach front there were signs for a backpackers and a guest house. I chose to go to Joseph and Tina's guest house. The guy who booked me in spoke no English. I don't speak Portuguese, although I can manage a little Spanish. So, I had to resort to pointing to phrases in my Portuguese phrasebook. I paid 400,000Mts for a room with a shared bathroom. The housing blocks were made of reeds.

Once I dumped my bags, I went straight back out. I walked back to the market where the bus had stopped. I wandered around. I found a very nice little bar and cafe just up from the market to have supper.

FRIDAY 2nd

I decided to change my guest house. So, first thing in the morning I walked along the shore looking for possible places to stay. On my walk I also found the office for a company that offers Dhow (boat) tours of the islands of the Bazaruto Archipelago. I walked back towards Joseph and Tina's. Just a short distance from last nights digs I checked out the Palmeira Lodge. It was much more comfortable (and expensive). I decided to take it - it cost me 1,000,000 Mts. I returned to Joseph and Tina's picked up my stuff and moved. After that I took a walk down the shoreline and called in at Sailaway. Sailaway offer Dhow trips to the islands. I asked them what they had available. I didn't expect to book the whole boat for myself. I was hoping that I could get on a boat that was already going out. As it happened, he had a boat going out the next day. It was a 2 day trip. I would be sharing the boat with 14 other people. The trip had been booked out by an overland tour company - Kumuka. So, I would be joining a group of people that had been together for some time.

I spent the rest of the day relaxing .

SATURDAY 3rd

I booked out of my Lodge, leaving my main backpack with them to pick up when the 2 day Dhow trip finished. I was at the office of Sailaway at 8.10am. The owner sorted out a snorkel for me before the others from the overland trip arrived. I was introduced to all 14 of the passengers - I didn't remember half their names! We got on the Dhow. The captain used the motor, as the wind was coming from the wrong direction.

After an hour or so we arrived at the island of Magaruque, where we did our first bit of snorkelling, admiring the fish and the coral. It was hard work swimming as we were swimming against a very strong current. Getting out of the water after about an hour I managed to cut a finger tip on the sharp corals and barnacles. Some other people cut themselves much more extensively. We then sat down to lunch on the beach of fresh crab and salad. Although the local chickens seemed to have other ideas - they kept trying to pinch our food.

At 1pm we got back on the boat and sailed to Benguerra Island. We got to the island at about 2.30pm. We had arrived at our lodge, Gabriels, for the night. We sorted out our rooms - I shared a dormitory with a couple. Someone suggested a walk. I didn't fancy it. It was the middle of the day and boiling hot. I could already feel the effects of the sun, so I thought it would be best to hide from the sun for a couple of hours, otherwise I would burn. The couple I was sharing with went on the walk. No one else did. Most of the people on the trip baked themselves on the beach. I hid in the shade in the bar. Whilst I was there I was joined by 2 other people that were on the trip. The 3 of us in the bar were the oldest people on the tour - everyone else was in their 20's. We chatted away the afternoon.

The supper at 7pm was very good, after which we all sat in the bar for the night till they wanted to turn the lights off at 9.30pm. They wanted to turn the lights off, because they didn't have much diesel for the generator.

SUNDAY 4th

We had breakfast at 8am and then left for 5 mile reef. We arrived at the reef at about 10.30pm. We jumped over the side of the boat and snorkeled. It was a much better reef than the previous day. The coral reef and the fish were amazing. I saw fish all the colours of the rainbow - red, blue , turquoise. Some of the fish were very big, including a Ray.

After the reef we got back into the boat and sailed to Paradise Island. Once there, we climbed a sand dune. From the top we had an amazing view of the lagoons - I didn't know there were so many shades of blue and turquoise! It was a picture postcard view. Unfortunately I didn't have my camera with me. Although, to be honest my camera probably wouldn't have done the view justice. If you imagine what a tropical paradise would look like - that's what I saw. From the top of the sand dune we ran down to the bottom and returned to the Dhow, which returned to Gabriels for lunch.

After lunch, the captain actually put the sail up, and sailed back to Vilankulo. The journey took 3 hours, at times it didn't feel like we were moving very fast. The captain put the sail down just before we moored. It was high tide when we arrived, and the water where we landed was choppy.

All the others on the trip walked back to their campsite. So, I said goodbye to them on the shore next to the Dhow. I helped load the pick up truck, as I had left my passport in the safe in the office of Sailaway. So, the owner of the company drove me to his office to pick my passport up, and then drove me down the road to the Palmeira Lodge. At the lodge, I told them that I would be leaving very early in the morning, so they made me a packed breakfast, and arranged for someone to wake me up in the morning.

MONDAY 5th

There was a knock at 3.15am, I picked up my stuff and walked to the bus stop with the security guard. The security guard knocked on the window of a minibus, waking someone up. It turned out that the bus was not leaving till tomorrow. One possibility was to get a chapa to a town 20kms away and then try to catch a bus from there. But, after a bit of indecision on my part, I decided it was better to wait for the direct bus. So, I walked back to the lodge with the security guard and went back to bed. At breakfast, a member of staff told me it was a good idea to buy a ticket for the bus in advance. So, after breakfast I walked back into town and talked to the driver. He told me to return after 3pm to buy a ticket. So, I relaxed for most of the day, sitting in the shade on the veranda of my room. In the afternoon I returned to the bus, bought my ticket and walked around the village. The staff at the lodge told me that they had arranged for someone to to give me a lift to the bus in the morning.

TUESDAY 6th

I got a lift at 3.30am to the bus stop, where I waited in the dark for the bus to leave. It wasn't a pleasant place to hang around, it smelt of piss. It was a large minibus. They loaded the bus at 4.30am and finally left at 5am. It was a long slow journey to Beira. Beira is the country's second city. The only reason I was stopping in Beira, was to break up the length of the journey north. The road alternated between tarred and cinder road, with frequent road works. The Lonely Planet claimed the journey takes 7 hours, in fact its more like 11 hours. I had very limited leg room, by the end of the journey I felt very tired.

I finally arrived in Beira. I didn't have that much time to find a place to stay before darkness fell. I found an expensive hotel near the bus stop. The Hotel Tivoli, which cost me $US88. It was basically a business hotel. To be honest the way I was feeling I appreciated the comfort. After booking into the Hotel Tivoli, I walked back to the bus stop and bought a ticket for the bus to Quelimane. It would be another very early start. I forced myself to eat, as I hadn't eaten much all day, but to be honest I didn't feel very hungry. I went to bed early, so I could catch the very early bus.

WEDS 7th

I woke up at 4.30am with a very sore throat. That would explain why I didn't feel like eating last night. I forced myself out to catch the bus. Again, I had to wait in the dark for the bus to leave in an area that smelt of piss. We finally left at 6.15am. The driver of the bus was a very elegant middle aged woman. She was also a very assertive woman. I've noticed a number of women in Mozambique doing jobs that would traditionally have been done by men. Women bus drivers and women working on the road crews on the road works. Freelimo seems to have done a lot to try to empower women in Mozambique. For instance one third of the representatives in Mozambique's Parliament are women. That's a higher proportion of women in parliament than Britain has. It was another long journey, but the roads were much better than on the last bus trip. There was though, a delay for an hour whilst we waited for a ferry to cross a river. It was another 11 hour journey.

When I got in to Quelimane, I was very tired and my throat was worse. I had no intention of trying to catch another bus in the morning. I thought it would be a good idea to spend a few days in Quelimane to recover. Walking away from the bus station I asked a street trader the way to the nearest Hotel. He got someone to look after his stall and walked me to the Rosy Hotel. It cost me 600,000 Mts ( 15 pounds sterling). It was an on suite room with TV and air conditioning, but it was in serious need of redecorating. I forced myself to eat some supper, although I really wasn't hungry. I felt like death warmed up, so I was in bed by 7pm.

THURSDAY 8th

I bought some expensive antibiotics over the counter in a chemists. I spent most of the day in bed.

FRIDAY 9th

I moved hotel to a slightly more comfortable place. Again, I did very little all day, I was still suffering from a sore throat.

SATURDAY 10th

Finally I decided to leave Quelimane. I felt a bit better, but not totally recovered. It was another very early start. 4am at the bus stop for a 5am departure. I was on the bus for Nampula. Nampula is the major industrial town of the far north of Mozambique. It's also just a 4 hour bus ride from Ilha de Mocambique. I've been making this long trip north up Mozambique in order to get to Ilha de Mocambique. Ilha is the old Portuguese colonial capital. It was another long journey, and the roads were dirt tracks most of the way. I got into Nampula at 4pm, tired and hungry. I booked into the first hotel I saw, which was expensive. The Hotel Girassol cost $US90. It was though an immaculate, brand new business hotel. The room they gave me was massive - and all the fixtures were brand spanking new.

SUNDAY 11th

I had intended to catch a bus to Ilha de Mocambique. But, I didn't really fancy a 4 or 5 hour journey. I decided I could do with a rest. So, I took it easy all day.

MONDAY 12th

After breakfast I walked to the Chapas (bus). The chapa's leave from outside the train station. I was recruited onto a bus. I thought we were leaving at 10am when the bus pulled away. But, no such luck. The chapa drove around in circles, stopping at various places to recruit more passengers. They kept putting more and more passengers on the bus. I couldn't believe you could get so many people on the thing. We were packed tighter than sardines.

After about 3 hours we finally got off the bus - only to be moved onto a smaller minibus. This minibus then crossed the narrow causeway to the island that is Ilha de Mocambique. I finally arrived in the middle of the town at 3pm. The island is only 2km long by 600 metres wide. I walked around the island looking for accommodation. I found the Casa Branca. It's a guest house with a good seafront view. It cost me 500,000 Mts. It's a beautiful old house, although the owner speaks no English. After dumping my bags, I wandered around town, found a restaurant and had supper at sunset.

TUESDAY 13th

I got up at 6am, in order to have a good look around town before it became too hot. I returned to the Casa Branca at 8am for breakfast. After breakfast, I did the touristy things - visiting the fort, the palace and museums.

WEDS 14th

I again got up early, this time at 5.30am to take a walk around the town early. I returned to the guest house, and checked out at 7am. I walked to the causeway bridge. The bridge is where the buses leave. At the start of the causeway I was recruited onto a pick up truck. It left Ilha at 7.30am. The pick up dropped me at the town of Monapo, at 9am. He delivered me to a bus that was parked at a junction. I was another couple of hours away from my destination. I was returning to Nampula. Nampula is the starting point for the railway line to the border with Malawi.

The bus I changed onto didn't leave straight away. Again he drove around in circles recruiting passengers. In fact, he did the same trick in every town we passed through, whenever he had dropped off a passenger.

I arrived in Nampula at 11.30am and booked into the Hotel Tropica, which cost me 1,300,000Mts. The room though was only available for one night. I tried to get on the internet during the afternoon, but the connection was very slow, and I had great difficulty even getting onto the travelblog site.

THURSDAY 15th

I moved hotel in the morning to the Girasol Hotel. I spent a lot of the day on the internet dealing with this blog, but the connection was very slow. It took me over 3 hours just to get the photos online.

FRIDAY 16th

I moved hotels again this morning, this time to a much cheaper place. The Hotel Lurio cost me 500,000 Mts. It's adequate, it has an en suite bathroom, no TV and no air conditioning. I walked down to the train station and asked a security guard about tickets. He said that the train leaves at 5am, but that I should return at 2pm to buy a ticket.

Again, I had problems with the speed of the internet, but I'm getting there. I've nearly finished this blog!

After lunch I returned to the train station. It wasn't that obvious where I should buy a ticket from. So, I asked a security guard again. He pointed to a window. I waited in a queue. When I got to the front of the queue, a woman indicated that I should go around the back. They were only issuing 3rd class tickets through the window of the shack. She issued me with a first class ticket for 500,000 Mts. I will have to get up very early to catch the train tomorrow, I need to be at the train station before 5am.

I'll be in Mozambique for the next day or two traveling to the border with Malawi. So, my next blog should be from Malawi.

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Photos

Maputo
View from IBIS Hotel

Magaruque Island
Bazaruto Archipeligo Marine National Park

Walking the Archipeligo
Bazaruto Archipeligo

Sunset from Benguerra Island
Bazaruto Archipeligo

Ilha de Mocambique
Museum of Sacred Art