So, we've spent the best part of four days over Christmas in the Mozambican capital, Maputo. Maputo comes closer than anywhere else we've visited to the lazy Western stereotype of the African city: dusty, litter-strewn, pot-holed streets choked with black clouds of pollution from cars that should have been consigned to the scrapheap years ago; the better, older buildings quietly decaying while the newer ones, where most of the people live, are mostly ramshackle single storey affairs that look like they wouldn't survive a sharp gust of wind. As Mozambique, unlike everywhere else we've visited, is not a former British colony but rather was occupied by the Portuguese, Portuguese is very much the dominant language, and English is generally limited. We set off to see the sights of the city at 10am one morning. Once we
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