Blogs from Southern, Mozambique, Africa


Africa » Mozambique » Southern March 12th 2016

People ask us why we always go back to Mozambique and specifically Ponta Malongane. After all it is quite far to drive (about eight hours from Johannesburg), you have to cross a border (which can sometimes be somewhat of a schlep and then still bounce around for about another half hour on a sand road to get to the campsite. Furthermore we take malaria prophylactics which can also be tiresome. We ask ourselves the same question time and time again while undertaking these journeys but once we are there we sigh with satisfaction as we look out over the sea and say this is why we return. Who can complain about a shady camp, sheltered from the onshore and off shore winds, just a stone's throw from the beach? A couple of steps through the coastal ... read more
Blue bubbles
Great view

Africa » Mozambique » Southern » Maputo January 31st 2016

Geo: -25.9664, 32.5713We sailed into Port Victoria in the Seychelles about 7am on January 27th. This is more like the tropical islands we know. The green hills rose in the centre while around the shores we glimpsed white sand. Port Victoria is the capital and is on the island of Mahe. Rain was forecast and it was very humid. We disembarked the ship about 8-45am and walked into the town. This took about 20 minutes. We stopped along the way to take a picture of a large model of a tortoise outside the Library. Giant tortoises are native to these islands. We also stopped at a square where three white crescents represent the three main peoples of the islands, African, Asian and European. We planned to hire a car so found a Hertz shop in the ... read more
Wind farm island off Mahe
Anchor at the Port
My friend the giant tortoise

Africa » Mozambique » Southern » Inhambane July 25th 2015

Tofo again on Sunday, but just for the day and a whole lot more stress-free transportation-wise. I brought my book with me and just read it the whole way, essentially ignoring the long wait times and such. Mild irritation at being shoved forward and jammed into the bench in front of us as they loaded too many crates of beer into the back of the chapa (and then couldn’t close the door, they tied it mostly-shut instead), but nothing major. I had packed lunch and snacks before I left and once I got to the beach I struck out for the lighthouse and the tidal pools I played in last time. High tide was about 5 pm, so it was pretty low when I got there at 10:20ish. I walked the beach and after a bit ... read more
Towards the Lighthouse
Lunchtime spot
Post-wandering beer

Africa » Mozambique » Southern » Inhambane July 22nd 2015

I want to take a moment to reflect on a few things that have happened over the last few weeks, particularly since a few people have commented on the grumpy and somewhat negative tone of a few of my last couple of posts. Unrelated to travel, Africa, and my personality quirks, but very much related to life in general and social media, is the idea of the personal, private, and uncurated thoughts and emotions that a person goes through on a daily basis versus the public, often perpetually positive, highly-curated projection that is expected of us. This is nothing new – when immigrants to the US went for pictures to send back home to Europe they put on their finest clothes and projected levels of affluence and wealth that many did not possess in the slightest. ... read more

Africa » Mozambique » Southern » Inhambane July 18th 2015

After my Mukambe feha trip I took three chapas back to CoH and was back by noon on Thursday. Friday wasn’t terribly productive, but it wasn’t terribly unproductive either. THEN CAME SATURDAY. I was damned and determined to get out of CoH and go to the beach, so I had called the night before (actually meaning to stay Fri and Sat night) and had my stuff packed. I finished writing the blog that I posted before I left, and then headed for the chapa out that way. Of course, it’s never without some issues… I get to Inhambane to get a chapa to tofo and there is space – by any standards – and I get in and sit down by the door. The cobrador says that the chapa is full and makes me get out ... read more
The Beach!
Dormitory in Fatima's

Africa » Mozambique » Southern » Inhambane July 9th 2015

So, let’s start from the beginning – Sunday. I had to get out of CoH. I was kind of going crazy… ok, more than kind of. I got up, packed what I could that I wasn’t going to use that night, and faffed about on the internet for a bit before heading out for the wait-then-chapa-then-wait-then-boat routine to Inhambane. The weather was decent and I brought a book so I wasn’t moved by any of this. Actually, the first of two transport-related chuckles I had today was on the boat going to Inhmambane. The boat was basically full, it might have held an extra 6 people from the point when I got on (There was no big boat running, so I had to take the small one), so I sat in the middle of the bench ... read more
Inhamabane Alley
wk 8 general04
Cemetery Gates

Africa » Mozambique » Southern » Inhambane July 9th 2015

Recapping quickly, I’ve been in a crappy mood for the last good chunk of time and haven’t wanted to do anything. Despite being more than a bit sketched out by the idea of sleeping in the wilds of Africa in a stick hut without a door or solid walls (not even Baraka construction), I felt it was necessary to get out to Mukambe feha and spend some time with them. It was necessary because otherwise this whole idea of me teaching the process of making the materials and thinking about the situation in a greater context was useless because all I would be doing is the same thing that every other NGO and government department does, come in, provide a temporary good or service, and leave. Now, I’m not totally crazy or naïve and realize that ... read more
On Our Way 1
On Our Way 2
Group Work 1

Africa » Mozambique » Southern » Inhambane July 4th 2015

28 Jun – 4 Jul Sunday, slow day. I spent the day on the computer working and was “forced” to go into town in the afternoon since I had eaten everything consumable in the kitchen as a result of not leaving CoH for a few days. Café food and grocery store accomplished, I headed back to CoH. When we were waiting for the chapa to leave I sat there listening as the cobrador for the chapa next to us as he changed the destination of his chapa and started telling people his was going the same place ours was (Nhamaxaxa, which is further than Chicuque, but on the same route). A few women got into the other chapa, and then as it became evident that the chapa I was in was going where they wanted to ... read more
Chapa stop 2
Train Station
Transportation Logo

Africa » Mozambique » Southern » Inhambane June 27th 2015

Highlights! My Sunday was lazy, mostly because we had no power in Chicuque for most of the day, a hold over from the night before. I got up, turned the computer on briefly and used up all the battery life it had, then put it away and worked on non-tech stuff for a bit, but reluctantly had to put clothes on. I ventured into town and went to Pastelaria Universal, which had power of course, and had food, wrote, and used the cards I made to storyboard some more comics. The best part of all that was when I went to get on my computer a young girl came over and asked to play with the cards that I had put away. When I gave them to her, she took them back to her mom and ... read more
Students and Activists Working
Working Versions

Africa » Mozambique » Southern » Inhambane June 20th 2015

Another week down, ack! Time goes too quickly when you’ve got stuff to do, I swear. Sunday wasn’t very productive. I got a text from Vishal to go to Inhambane with him and his wife, but when we got in the car he said it was a couples’ church thing and that I could wait with his brother Zito. Meh. We drove around for a bit and then went to a café – Bistro Pescador – next to the ferry landing. It was actually really nice and has wifi, so there is a silver lining to this story. We waited for 2 hours, but it was going to be another 2, so I took the boat back to Maxixe to go to Taurus (grocery store) and Pasterlaria Universal for foods. Monday was only mildly more productive ... read more
dhow in morning
Kids'Activities 2
Nhamaxaxa Health Fair11

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