The chapa out of Vilankulos takes an age to fill up, during which a local guy latches onto me. Swigging from a small bottle of gin (which he assures me will soon be replaced by a larger one), he sprays me with spittle while describing why he is different to other Mozambicans, be it in his excellent English from working for a time in South Africa, or his ability to see only a person where others see a white person. He introduces me to a friend who says his name, Fanito, then, after a pause, adds "Dog". This causes much laughter and leg-slapping among the other bystanders, and my gin-loving friend explains that Fanito has awarded himself this honorary surname as a nod to Snoop Doggy Dogg. I'm not the only one who finds this a
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