Blogs from El Kelaa des Sraghna, Tadla-Azilal, Morocco, Africa - page 3

“In the beginner’s mind there are many possibilities, but in the expert’s mind there are few.” -Shunryu Suzuki Today is the 10th day of the Islamic New Year and a very special day in the Moroccan calendar. Last night I saw young men and boys gathered around giant bonfires on the edges of town, a common tradition for this holiday. At one they were even jumping over the biggest part of the fire - I have been told this is an important part of the celebration in Iran but that it’s fairly rare here. I was also warned by several people to watch out for kids throwing water at me. I didn’t see any water guns or water throwing, though people assured me that on L’ashura kids are supposed to splash passersby. It wasn’t exactly a ... read more

“I have nothing to say, I am saying it, and that is poetry.” -John Cage My experience in Errachidia was definately different from my life in Kelaa. I got to see the big family all together and learned a lot more about gender roles - Maryam and Hichem aren't always typical in some respects. One of my favorite learning experiences was when I was asked (for the millionth time) if I was married. This particular questioner was an elderly friend of Mama Zineb who appeared at the door wrapped entirely in a sheet with only her giant 80s glasses peering out. She was accompanied by her 23 year old daughter. I wasn't surprised by the question as sometimes I am asked if I am married before they even know my name. Priorities are different here. I ... read more

Opportunities are usually disguised as hard work, so most people don’t recognize them. -Ann Landers If Casablanca is the White City and Marrakech is the Red City, then Kelaa is the Pink City. There is a lot of construction here, so many buildings are still cement gray, but the ones that are finished are all a Santa Fe shade of salmony pink. I generally walk everywhere in town, though the place is big enough to have petit taxis. The Kelaa variety are blue, but they’re still the same little Golfs and Unos that every bigger town has. I usually only take them if I’m carrying something really heavy like a box of books or furniture. It’s 5 dirhams a trip, no matter how far you’re going, except at night when the fare raises to 7. ... read more

Do first what only you can do. -Daisy Hepburn This was a long sabbatical from my blog, and not entirely a voluntary one - though I suppose I could have found a way to make it work if I really had had the motivation to do so. Actually, this past month I have been busy enough establishing myself here in Kelaa and I really haven’t felt pressed to post much since I have so much time here. I figured the more time I spent getting to know the place first the more accurate and in depth the future blogs would be. Of course, that does take away some of the initial excitement, first discoveries and first impressions - but not all. Kelaa is big enough and life and culture here are complicated enough that I ... read more

I got to explore the town a bit and went to see the Dar Shebab with Daniele, the PCV who will be ending her service in Morocco the day after I get back to Kelaâ. I’m only here to visit for a few days now and have to be back in Immouzzer on the 15th for the last bit of training and to swear in as a real Volunteer. I introduced myself to most of the people in town as the “new Daniele” or “Daniele’s replacement”. She is much older than I am, so some people actually called me the younger or little Daniele. She speaks French as her first language, so people were delighted to learn that I also speak French. I still plan on communicating mostly in Darija, but I know the French will ... read more