A guest is a gift from Allah

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Morocco has been the gateway to North Africa for hundreds of years, where tourists come in droves to enjoy it's vibrant and exotic culture. The coastal city of Tangier is the starting point for travellers arriving by boat from Europe, however I arrived by air into Casablanca as the journal continues. The flight from Tunis is a pleasant two and a half hours, and after having my passport stamped I jumped into a grande taxi, for the long drive to my hotel in town for an overnight stay.

But by this time I, dear reader, was tongueing for a beer. So after checking in I was out the door like a shot, to try and find a spot where I could tilt my head back. After a few blocks I suddenly beheld the glorious sign, like a mirage appearing after wandering the Sahara desert for days on end. "Mmmm, Heineken" I breathed in a reverent tone. Alrighty then, I walked inside and the locals were stunned, all gawking at me like. But this bar needed propping up, so I headed straight in to add my weight with the locals. It just so happens 'barfly' is an international language, so as soon as I ordered a beer the whole establishment became my new best friends. I was welcomed profusely as I blew the froth off a few local brewskis, and one fellow in particular was very chatty, even though I nearly choked on the cigarette fumes from his gasper right under my nose. Ah anyways, it's great to be in Morocco!

The Hotel Astrid was excellent, but I was up bright and early for the five hour train ride to Fez. Train journeys in Morocco have not been so much fun thus far, and the carriages end up like furnaces after an hour or two. There were half a dozen desperate commuters trying to get the windows slightly ajar, but to no avail. The trains also make excellent target practice for indigent youths on the train line, and every carriage on the trains I saw had copious dings from the projectiles. However we arrived without incident in Fez, and the next challenge was getting to the Riad within the Medina, which is always a bit of a concern. However, there always seem to be locals around to assist by walking you to your accommodation. I believe their help is worth a bit of baksheesh, cause there's no way you can find your way in the maze of a Medina otherwise. As a guest I received a warm welcome in the gorgeously restored Riad Dar El Mar in the heart of the Medina. My hosts served delicious Moroccan mint teas, and presented me with a chronological history of the renovations in pictures. The Riad is magnificent, and the breakfasts are the best I've had on this trip.

On the first night I went for a stroll in the evening, and discovered there's more of an aggressive edge to the touts here in Fez, compared to other North African countries I've visited. The negative vibe can be quite strong, and I was sexually harassed that evening on my short and not so illustrious stroll. The guys were quite hostile and very crude, so I had to do a u'e and head back up towards the hostel. That experience opened my eyes to what female travellers put up with on a regular basis in this part of the world. In general I tend to stay mute with touts and hustlers and let them bung it on, sometimes in several languages. Finally they'll ask in exasperation if I speak at all, but after a time they inevitably lose interest in the silent traveller who just keeps walking ... and step off.

For the next three days it was time to don the fez hat, metaphorically speaking, and wander the maze like streets and side alleys of the famous Medina. I shared the streets with fully laden donkeys, and thousands of locals and tourists all trying to take in the sensory overload on display in the wonderful souqs. I spent my first full day without a bag, cameras, water, or money. All I had were the keys to the Riad and five bucks or so worth of dirhams. Strolling around the Medina in the slow lane is the way to go, heading randomly in this direction or that based on whatever catches the eye around the next corner. There's so much to see and do it's almost overwhelming, and interested persons could spend a week exploring every nook and cranny within the Medina, which is the largest in Africa.

There are superb views from a hill overlooking the Medina, that has Roman ruins as an added attraction. The half hour walk up the hill is a real treat, with sweeping views that show just how impressive and vast the Medina is. A trip for supplies into the centre of the new town is only ten dirhams in a petit taxi, and I appreciated the drivers using their meters without prompting each and every time. Fez is the spiritual and cultural centre of traditional Morocco, and being a guest within the edgy Medina is to experience a unique part of the world, basically all of you should be here now!

When the end of the world comes I hope I am in Australia as it won't happen here for another twenty years." Brud

As I continue my travels, until next time it's signing off for now

Tom

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Photos

Dar El Ma Riad, Fez
A gorgeous restored Riad, and home for three days.

Vendor in the Medina
Beautifully arranged treats are a work of art.

Seffarine Square
The artisans make exquisite pieces from copper and brass in the square.

Roman ruins, Fez
On the hill overlooking the Medina.