The Pearl of the Kingdom

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The seaside town of Essaouira is hippy central man. So if you're hoping to peace out away from the hustle and bustle of the Medinas in the big smoke, why not mosey on down to this gorgeous little place to chillax, and get some much needed rest and recreation. The pearl of the kingdom is waiting to welcome you, and chances are the only hassle you may face is some rasta brother asking if you wanna get high man! Travel is all about light and shade, where intense experiences are juxtaposed against relaxing ones. They all get thrown into the mix here in Morocco, to make for a memorable travel destination.

So yo, dear reader, peace and love as you get back in the loop. We left off in marvelous Fez, with the Medina pouring out it's energy all day. From there I caught a train south west to Marrakech, where I stayed in a great hostel for three days. Once again I was situated in the Medina, and got to thinking this makes two weeks where I've been living exclusively in Medinas, from Tunis to Fez to Marrakech. It's not an experience I intend to repeat any time soon, as crowds tend to make me a bit stir crazy at the best of times, but nonetheless it's been an unforgettable experience. The immediate difference I noticed in Marrakech is the streets of the Medina are wider, which provides some breathing space, except for the motorbikes that go careering through the centre of the streets day and night. And some of these guys are really motoring too!

The Amour D'Auberge hostel in Marrakech was like an oasis amidst all the chaos of the city, and full of friendly, talkative and considerate travellers and staff. It was a great experience being in such a friendly atmosphere, and only a couple of hundred metres from the fascinating sights on offer in the central square. Djemaa El-Fna is one of the most famous spots in the world now, and it's cultural value has been recognised by UNESCO. And what a trippy experience it is. I saw snake charmers, fortune tellers, wonderful musicians, story tellers, and garden variety nutters all converging on the square around dusk. There are huge food stalls packed with tourists, and the square is intriguing. I was there every night, and I'm sure most travellers who visit Marrakech find it hard to resist it's charms. Overall, however, the desperate quest for a quick buck has become a little tiresome, and I'm almost ashamed to say by the end of my Marrakech visit I was becoming tetchy. You just don't get a moment to yourself without being hassled in the two Medinas at Fez and Marrakech, and sometimes it can be a little unedifying. But it's vitally important to try and keep a sense of perspective when dealing with the touts, and with my patience beginning to wear thin it was definitely time to move on.

I say that anywhere good enough for Jimi Hendrix is good enough for me, and the legendary cat moseyed on down to Essaouira on the Atlantic coast in the late 60's, for a music festival when the town was hippy central. The staff even put me up in the room named after the guitar hero with the mean licks, after I told them I'm a big fan. The town stills hosts the annual Moroccan woodstock in June, and they were already starting to put up massive tents in preparation for the annual influx of music lovers. My hostel was cool, and I've had the best four days I can remember for a long time. The staff are brilliant, and the guests equally so. I've been socialising every night until late, and had a great time of it. There always seems to be a communal meal option, whether at the hostel bar or at a nearby restaurant. There's hammocks, there's a a beach, I think I'm painting a picture that's easy to relate to.

It's all about light and shade here in Morocco, where I've experienced one of the most intense travel destinations in the big cities, and also one of the most relaxed by the Atlantic coast. The cats around Essaouira wouldn't dream of hassling you, it's just not in the DNA of a beach culture. I think they're also proud of the hippy reputation the town is famous for, and go out of their way to give a warm welcome to tourists from around the world. I've hooked up with an American guy from NYC, and we are both booked at the HI Hostel Casablanca for the last nights of our respective Moroccan trips. So we shared the bus ride and a decent hostel room in this famous city. Morocco has been amazing if slightly overwhelming at times and the mail is, basically all of you should be here now!

If our nation can issue a dollar bond, it can issue a dollar bill. Both are promises to pay, but one promise fattens the usurer and the other helps the people." Thomas Edison

As I continue my travels, until next time it's signing off for now

Tom

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Photos

Hotel on Essaouira beach
There are several resort style hotels lining the beach.

Essaouira beach
Another gorgeous resort hotel.

Looking out to sea
This path leads straight to the Atlantic ocean.