Aswan

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The train ride to Aswan from Luxor was lovely and very comfortable on first class. After a quick three hour trip, Shane and I arrived in Aswan. We went around looking for a place to stay and were sorely disappointed by the hotels on the corniche with a view of the Nile. They were grim and dark for the price. Shane and I finally decided on a hotel a few blocks from the corniche, called Keylany Hotel. Even then, it was not as nice as the other hotels we have stayed in for the same price (55 LE). However, it was clean.

Today was our "rest day." Sigh! Even when Shane and I rest, we still manage to pack in quite a bit of sightseeing. Our travels are very much like our lives - busy and chaotic and we try to commit to too much! Anyways, other than the lack of nice hotels for a decent price, the atmosphere in Aswan is much more laid back than Luxor. Yes, they are touts but once you say no, they leave you alone. This probably has to partially do with the Nubian influence, who seem to be laid back and very friendly. Nubians are darker-skinned and have more African features than Egptians. I believe Nubia used to be a part of Sudan.

We started out day with a ferry trip over to Elephantine Island which is a stone's throw away from Aswan (population 150,000). Elephantine Island has been inhabited since about 3000 BC and there are presently two Nubian villages on it - Siou and Koti. They are separated by a garden - that's it. It is very peaceful and charming here. The Nubians are a very friendly bunch! We visited the Nubian House were we had some refreshments and enjoyed the view. We also got invited into a real Nubian House as we were walking from Siou to Koti. His name was Ahmed and he used to work in the tourist industry in Dahab as security (he was a big guy). He invited us to see his home, which he was building and getting furnished as he was getting married in three months. The whole family was very enthusiatic to have us as visitors and offered us lunch. We kindly declined. Ahmed had a very lovely and large home, which he very obviously very proud of. He must have done well in the tourist industry. He tells us that a house of this calibre would cost 100,000 LE ($20,000 - $25,000 CAN).

We then headed towards the Aswan Museum which was in Koti. Shane wanted to see the Nilometer (yes, it measures the height of the Nile), which was very underwhelming. There was also the Temple of Khnum there, but we were templed out. We did go inside the museum which was pretty forgettable except for some mummies which the caretaker encouraged us to take pictures of for baksheesh. How could we resist such an opportunity?

Next was a ferry from Elephantine Island to Kitchener's Island. The entire island is a botanical garden and lovely to walk in. It was also, of course, ridiculously expensive. We then rounded off our evening by enjoying the sunset on a felucca. Talking to the crew on the felucca, it was very interesting to get to know their perceptions of tourists. They make many assumptions based on the tourists they see just as we make many assumptions from the tourist touts that we meet! They were surprised that we didn't smoke and told us that many Canadians smoke and most of them like to smoke marijuana. As well, they seem to think that many of us just meet up on our travels for a couple of days, have casual intercourse, then go our separate ways. They did not seem to understand that Shane and I are married. Funny how perceptions are coloured!

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Photos

Train to Aswan
Shane and I took the train first class from Luxor to Aswan (3 hours) - what luxury! Look at the leg space!

Nubian House
The famous Nubian House from the outside, located in the village of Siou.

Nubian House
Inside the famous Nubian House on Elephantine Island. The fellow who owns it is Nubian and very friendly.

Nubian House
Shane with the owner of the Nubian House and a crocodile in his hand. This one was 1 month old (they start biting after 3 months).

Elephantine Island
A picture from the Nubian village of Siou.

Elephantine Island
One of the streets in Siou.

Elephantine Island
Ahmed, a Nubian, who invited us into his house for some hospitality. He was just fixing up his new home and was getting married in 3 months.

Elephantine Island
A lady and a baby in the Nubian village of Koti. Of course, we took this picture for baksheesh!

Old Cataract
A view of the Old Cataract Hotel from Elephantine Island. What a gorgeous place!

Aswan Museum
A picture of Aswan Museum on Elephantine Island.

Aswan Museum
The caretaker of the museum let us take a picture of a wrapped mummy for baksheesh (if you look closely, you can see the feet sticking out). We couldn't let the opportunity pass!

Kitchener's Island
A view of Kitchener's Island from Elephantine Island.

Kitchener's Island
Tree huggers.

Felucca on the Nile
Okay, you can't go to Egypt and not go on a felucca.

Felucca Ride
Us and our felucca crew.

Felucca Ride
There is nothing quite like enjoying the sunset on a felucca on the Nile.