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On the west bank of Luxor, passed the lush fertile flood plain is a range of scorched craggy hills that capture the hottest rays of the sun and bakes the place like an oven. This is the area known as the Valley of the Kings - the world's most famous burial ground. In the neighbouring valleys are the equally barren Valley of the Queens and Valley of the Nobles. For three days I ignored the withering heat and hiked around these valleys and clambered into dusty and humid tombs still wearing the paint that vividly portrays a vanished civilisation.
The Valley of the Kings was particularly enjoyable. Seeing the final resting places of names that are etched in history was just wonderful. I derived great pleasure from deciphering the hieroglyphic cartouches of the Pharaohs, and interpreting the symbolism contained in the tomb paintings.
After visiting this Valley, I visited one last temple - that of Hatshepsut - a sublime masterpiece nestled into the foot of a yawning cliff. I found another hiking buddy (this time an energetic 67 year young grandmother from Holland, Daisja) and together we hiked to the temple across the top of the sun-drenched hills and were greeted by some spectacular views of the countryside and the Temple. The low flat lines of this temple were so different from the others I had seen and it truly was an architectural gem.
As impressive as the tombs in the Valley of the Kings and Nobles were, they paled into insignificance when compared to the mightiest of them all - the Tomb of Nefertari. She was the most favoured wife of Ramses II, and he set out to create a masterpiece to honour her name. However, in order to preserve this tomb, only 150 people are allowed to visit each day - so tickets are at a premium and are greatly prized. To ensure I was first in line for the 6am selling time, I organised a local boat owner to take me across the Nile at 4.45am so that I could arrive at the ticket office before (for some unusual reason) the tourist police established a roadblock that prevented tourists from accessing the ticket office till after 6am.
After slipping past the tourist police at the dock (whose shouted words to me I ignored) the boat quietly made its way to the other side of the darkened Nile; at which time the stillness of the night was again broken by a heated argument I had with the boat driver who unsuccessfully tried to charge me far more than the price we had agreed to the night before. After another heated (very heated) argument on the river bank with the boat driver over the fare, a short taxi ride saw me at the ticket office, and I was overjoyed to find that I was the first person in line - thus guaranteed a ticket to this most special of places. Shortly after arriving, the tourist police set off to attend their stations (including the roadblock) and their cache of automatic and semi-automatic weapons they carried would put any police force in Australia to shame.
At 6am, I excitedly purchased a ticket and five minutes later (as the roadblock was now lifted) hoards of buses and cars arrived, and their occupants burst from every door and window, and the frenzied mass rushed to the ticket office to secure one of the remaining 149 tickets - it was quite a spectacle!
After a leisurely morning, I made my way to Nefertari's tomb. To ensure that I would be in the tomb by myself, I waited till there were no other tourists in the tomb, and that none were in sight wandering down the valley. When all was clear, I entered. Normally, you are only permitted to spend 10 minutes in the tomb, but a few well placed smiles and the generous use of a travellers' best friend (baksheesh) ensured that I was in the tomb alone for 20 minutes.
Every now and then, you see a painting or sculpture that touches your emotions. The Tomb of Nefertari is one of them. Even a power failure that temporarily plunged the whole area into a darkness blacker than a moonless night, failed to diminish its impact upon me. The vibrancy and brilliance of the colours was just astonishing, and the delicate depiction of Nefertari being welcomed into the afterlife by the Gods was so moving. At one stage, while gazing open-mouthed at the Tomb - a wave of emotion washed over me, and I struggled to contain my tears. I explored every centimetre of the rooms and corridors of the Tomb, and the longer I gazed, the greater my admiration grew. It really is very difficult for me to describe what an amazing experience it was.
After leaving the Tomb, I felt numb as I was transformed to an almost dreamlike state, whilst still trying to comprehend what I had just witnessed. Truly, this is an outstanding testament to a Pharaoh and his artisans who wanted the beauty of Nefertari to live forever.
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john brock
non-member comment
Wrong painting description
Whoever did this blog has put the wrong description of that photo of the painting work in the top right. It is most definitely NOT come from the Tomb of Rekhmire (TT100) !?! It most certainly comes from the Tomb of Menna (TT69).