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Published: December 7th 2009
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Sorry. No photos this time. I just can't read sufficient Arabic to work out how to convince this computer to upload the upload program
We are on the real Nile now. Away from Cairo where the river is spectacular but seems to serve as a rubbish disposal mechanism we get see the Nile as the powerful and important river that its size and length justifies. We hadn't seen a great deal of it until Luxor because we took a great loop out into the Sahara. Now the functions of the Nile are on proper display. Irrigation for agriculture along the valley floor, a transport corridor for feluccas and all manner of small boats and, most importantly, the means of carting masses of tourists in large boats from Luxor to Aswan.
Luxor is dedicated to tourists but well worth the visit. The Karnak Temple dedicated to Amun Ra is special. A massive building feat taken on over many years by successive pharaohs. All aimed at impressing Amun Ra - the Sun god - but they took the time and money to pop up just a few statues of themselves as well.
The refurbishment of Karnak is also an extensive
Boats on Nile
At Luxor. Mobs of people come up on these task. Apparently UNESCO is heavily involved particularly in the provision of funding. All of the houses that used to be between the entrance to Karnak and the river have been removed to give the view of the temple a little more like it used to be in its heyday when boats could pull in to the front. The banks of the Nile have moved about 300 meters in that time and there were, as you would expect, a substantial number of houses and businesses there. These were all bought out although not everyone was happy. We talked to one man who had received 30,000 pounds for an 800 sq meter block with a house that had been in the family for generations and then had to pay over 100,000 pounds for an 80 sq meter apartment. The site is impressive though and tourism is obviously critical to the economy of the country.
The Valleys of the Kings, Queens, Nobles and Workers are all across the river from the main part of Luxor. We visited three of the main mausoleums of kings. Long, deep corridors dug into the side of the hill with burial chambers carved out and a sarcophagus
Luxor Temple
to the Sun God in place. Heiroglyphics adorn every wall. These are either carved into the rock or into the plaster covering. Most retain their original colour. Not a lot of refurbishment here but some are now behind glass coverings - to protect them from the hands of tourists.
We were told that the ancient Egyptians believed in the power of the written word and believed that, in writing down stories they could communicate and influence the gods. I suppose most religions have been trying the same trick ever since. They certainly didn't spare themselves in getting the stories down ensuring that the gods were very much aware of the deeds and goodness of the chappie who filled the sarcophagus.
The Valleys of the Queens and Nobles seemed likely to offer much the same as the Valley of the Kings so we skipped them and visited the Valley of the Workers. There were just 2 chambers open for public view there - the chief architect and the chief steward. Their chambers were not so extensive but very brightly coloured and with different from those in the royal chambers.
The public ferry back across the river was the best value we had
Intricate Writing
On many of the pillars. Putting them together again has been a massive task. here for 1 pound. Not a long way though.
We had a bit of a look at the Luxor Temple but didn't visit the Luxor Museum. That was possibly a mistake with others telling us that it was much better presented than the Egyptian Museum in Cairo.
Hatsheputs Temple is the site of some very impressive restorative work. Archaelogists have taken a large pile of rocks with carvings on them and a few columns and re-constructed a magnificent edifice. They ae still working on it. There are a lot of rocks yet to be fitted into the major jigsaw puzzle.
From Luxor to Aswan we took the road up along the Nile Valley. A trip of about 240 km and a different view from those we had seen before. Agriculture here is practised in a way that has stood the test of time. There are few tractors with donkeys, and to a lesser extent buffaloes, doing the haulage and dragging work. Lots are relatively long and skinny giving access to irrigation for as many as possible. Water is lifted from the Nile both by modern pumps and by the types of pumps that have been in use
Big job
To carve it, transport it and then stand it up. Then people come and steal them. Poms, Italians etc since the time of the Greeks. A lot of irrigation seems to be by flooding of lots. Sugar cane, vegetables - the biggest cauliflowers I have seen for years - fodder crops and some peppers seem to be the main crops at the moment but I am sure this changes with the seasons. The agriculture is, of course, restricted to that relatively narrow strip of land that is the valley floor. Beyond that it immediately becomes desert.
One does wonder how the cycle has been affected by the removal of the incidence of flooding which used to replenish the valley soils. We didn't see much evidence of fertiliser use and did see a number of organic type practices in place. Chemical fertiliser and even the organic stuff would have an effect on the river.
Aswan is another city dedicated to the tourists. The souk sellers are a lot more pushy here but they still normally have a sense of humour and are prepared to have a laugh. Perhaps they don't realise that they would be likely to sell a lot more if they let people browse around without being pushed and harrassed. The aim is to stop you,
get you into the store and then not let you out until they have made the sale. Unfortunately, they generally use the same lines as each other and it all becomes a little wearing over time. The occasional one with a new or different line sparks interest but often not enough to get us into the shop. Most of them now advertise that there is 'No Hassle' but it seems that they have a different view of what that means to the average tourist. None of this has stopped us visiting the souk on a number of occasions.
This is the beginning of Nubian territory and the Nubian Museum here is well worth a look. An impressive building and very well presented material. We were not overwhelmed with things to look at and what was on display was done very well. We did see yet more mummies but, again, these were good specimens, well presented with useful interpretation.
The truck is now on its way to clear customs and other formalities preparatory to our ferry ride up Lake Nasser to Sudan which happens in a couple of days. Our Sudanese visas - the most expensive we have so
far had to obtain - should be available tomorrow and we should be on our way South.
The sites of major significance around here are Abu Simbel with is a 3 hour drive south, the Phillae Temple and the Aswan High Dam among others. Abu Simbel is statues of Ramses and two others set alongside what used to be the Nile to let any incomers know who was in charge here. Janet took the trip leaving at 3.15am to Abu Simbel - and it was apparently worth it. We will pass it on our way up Lake Nasser tomorrow.
Today we spent a little over 4 hours on a felucca sailing gently along. No one singing out, no-one congratulating me on having 2 wives or desperately trying to get us into their shop. Just peace and quiet. Bliss.
Tommorrow it is into Sudan where we will bush camp for 8 or 9 days. The ferry is to take between 16 and 48 hours. Things are getting flexible.
Happy Birthday for yesterday Virginia.
And Happy Christmas to you all if we don't find access to the net for a while.
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