On one of my first visits to Egypt in 2000, I became wearied by the constant harrassment by touts and pressure to buy souvenirs, tours etc. I longed to go somewhere quiet, with no tourists, no attractions, no hassle.. somewhere I could go to recharge. As I read in my guidebook about the troubles in Middle Egypt, I wondered if that might be the place to go. Not that I was looking for trouble, but that I was looking for a place off the tourist trail. The first thing I noticed in Minya was that hardly anyone speaks English. The second was the restrictions placed on me. There were armed police stationed outside the hotel, and every time I left the hotel I found myself with an armed escort. When I tried to visit local monuments
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