It doesn't surprise me that there is an underground scene in Iran. When I was in Syria a few years ago, I met this Syrian man in the Aleppo souq - and we chatted about Australia (where he had visited). Anyway, we were sitting on some wooden stools in a shop and smoking a sheesha, when the following conversation ensued:
Fumbling his sheesha, he suggested: "When you are here, you should try some new experiences." His eyebrows raised at this comment.
I replied with a slight smirk, "You mean, a Syrian woman?"
He sucked on his sheesha, paused as the smoke drifted towards the ceiling as he uttered, "No, a Syrian man..."
I politely declined, saying that the former was far more appealing than the latter. We continued talking and he revealed that his boyfriend was Australian, and that he missed him very much. Still this didn't prevent him from commenting on the fact that he thought I had a nice arse. I replied that he was bold to make such a statement as we had only just met, and he laughed dismissively in return.
It was obvious that this shop was a contact point for homosexuals in Aleppo - and a few travellers came to the store to uncover the whereabouts or news of other like-minded travellers and locals. Though it is obviously illegal, there was still a freedom in the way they spoke and interacted with each other - so I suppose it is like most things in life - if you look hard enough, eventually you shall find.
Remember that men holding hands is not always considered sexual within the Middle East and even parts of the Indian sub-continent. I've seen it in Turkey, Syria, and Bangladesh to name a few. It is a sign of friendship.
When travelling, being covert instead of overt should be initial rule with any display of affection between couples, regardless of the gender. Once you are aware of local tolerances, then one can adjust behaviour accordingly.
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