Ezra Erb

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When I travel, I love the great outdoors, modern art, historical sites, good food, classic roadside attractions, and long drives in a convertible. Preferably all at once. The nickname is a tribute to a wise traveller in the Hitch-hikers Guide to the Galaxy by Douglas Adams, who proved that all you really need to cross the galaxy (and beyond) is a towel.

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Travel Blog Posts


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March 28th 2013

How do I summarize a trip of a lifetime in a few minutes? Since I’ve been back, many people I’ve met have wanted to know exactly that. It can’t be done; the range of experience and sights was just too varied. In the end, I wrote up a bunch of lists. The second half is below, with post references where appropriate. See the previous blog for the first half. Most Unexpected Surprises: 1. The incredible diversity of the United States. This country has an unbelievable variety of cultures, people, cities, landscapes, and histories; all of which manage to coexist, however uneasily. 2. How friendly people are in most of the country. Parts of the US have a reputation of being intolerant of people obviously from elsewhere. I found the exact opposite, friendly people willing to engage ... read more



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March 14th 2013

How do I summarize a trip of 35,000 miles in a few minutes? Since I’ve been back, many people I’ve met have wanted exactly that. It can’t be done; the range of experience and sights was just too broad. In the end, I wrote up a bunch of lists. The first half is below, with post references where appropriate. Lessons Learned: 1. I love to explore and discover things. I spent the entire trip doing it. 2. Direct experience provides insight other methods can’t match. Travelling somewhere to be there in person has a much greater impact than reading or seeing a video about it. 3. I’m very good at solving problems. They came up repeatedly (hit in a parking lot, cracked my camera, road I needed was flooded) and I found solutions within a few ... read more



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November 25th 2011

After nine months away, being back feels really strange. Home has an odd duality, so familiar I can navigate with my eyes closed yet also very different to how I remember it. T.S. Eliot once stated that someone really can’t know their home until they go away, and it’s certainly true for me. I finally decided how to handle these feelings, with one last day of exploration. Like most Massachusetts kids, we learned about the start of the Revolution: Paul Revere’s ride, the Battle of Bunker Hill, and so forth. In grade school, we visited most of those sites. I haven’t been back since. One of the ironies of travel is many people seek... read more



Almost Home

Published: March 1st 2013North America » United States » Virginia » Natural Bridge
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November 23rd 2011

Today felt strange, and wonderful. I walked out of my hotel room, and saw something familiar. Not “I’ve lived here for years” familiar, but definitely somewhere I’ve been before. It’s been a long time since I had that impression on this trip. More importantly, that horrible cold front finally moved out, so the sky was clear and warm. In late November, it was warn enough to drop the top, almost certainly for the last time this year. The Shenandoah Valley is beautiful, even with no leaves on the trees. Hills roll away to a long mountain chain in the distance, the Blue Ridge. With the great scenery and weather, I decided to squeeze in one last sight before the long drive ahead. The area’s largest but also most impressive tourist trap was just the place: Natural ... read more



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November 22nd 2011

Today, the rain was still falling, for the third day straight. That mattered less than it would have earlier, because I only want to see the pavement on the way home. I’ve seen the hills of Tennessee before, when they were covered in beautiful green trees. Now they are bare, and brown. Today was a long soggy grind of a drive. On this Interstate, I had to deal with the big negative of driving away from Memphis. I had to deal with it before, or course, but then I was on a voyage of discovery (see April 28th). Now, it’s just one more thing to deal with. Memphis has the remarkable property of being within a two day drive of all but five major cities in the United States (the exceptions? Spokane, Seattle, Portland, Anchorage, and ... read more



Moments in Transition

Published: February 24th 2013North America » United States » Arkansas » Morrilton
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November 21st 2011

I woke up this morning to a world of grey. That cold front from yesterday had decided to hang around, so everything was low overcast clouds and drippy rain. Still, my rest last night has improved my spirits and I want to see things. Arkansas is something of an anomaly. Half the state is covered by mountain ranges, in a part of the country that is otherwise flat plains. The soil here was incredibly tough to farm, so they were settled by the same types of people who flocked to the Appalachians a half century earlier. Like in the Appalachians, they lived self-sufficient, isolated, and often materially poor lives; and their descendents are still here (see May 23rd). The end result is that both the scenery and the c... read more



Native American Art

Published: February 24th 2013North America » United States » Oklahoma » Tulsa
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November 20th 2011

I walked out of my hotel this morning, and got a surprise. I figured that by this point that all I would see was bare trees, and McKittrick Canyon would be my last foliage (see Nov 4th). The brown forests along route 66 yesterday did nothing to dispel those thoughts. Unexpectedly, Tulsa not only had foliage, it was still in color. Wonderful red and yellow trees appeared all over the city. Too bad the sky was grey and overcast, premonition of a huge cold front moving in. Thanks to both its small size and oil wealth, Tulsa feels like a boutique city in many ways, kin to the wealthy suburbs found outside large urban areas. Like wealthy men everywhere, those oil millionaires wanted cultural cache (see April 10th), so Tulsa has an impressive set of museums ... read more



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November 19th 2011

On April 19, 1995, Oklahoma City became the site of the largest domestic terrorist incident in United States history, when anti-government fanatic Timothy McVeigh bombed the Alfred Murah Federal Building downtown. The blast killed 139 people, an eighth of them children at a day care center. Events six and a half years later pushed this one to a footnote in public consciousness, but the hole in the city’s fabric still aches. This morning I went and paid my respects. The memorial is built on top of the actual building site and street. Like most recent memorials, the sculpture is quite minimalist. This type of memorial is often criticized as being too abstract to be ... read more



Home on the Range

Published: February 15th 2013North America » United States » Oklahoma » Oklahoma City
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November 18th 2011

Oklahoma views itself as the epitome of the American pioneer spirit. The state started out as Indian Territory, where tribes forcibly removed from other parts of the US were dumped. These included the Cherokee, at the end of the Trail of Tears (see May 19th). Eventually, white settlers looked on the land as valuable, and pushed the federal government to open it. On April 22, 1889, they did. Any settler could claim 160 acres for free as long as they farmed it. This resulted in the great Oklahoma Land Rush, and major towns like Oklahoma City sprung up overnight. Naturally, some settlers cheated and snuck in earl... read more



Unexpected Art

Published: February 8th 2013North America » United States » Texas » Fort Worth
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November 17th 2011

Texas does not have a high reputation for art museums. Even for western art, the best known public collections are elsewhere. That probably accounts for how few people know that the state has a group of great museums in an unexpected place, Fort Worth. The city holds something called the Cultural District, with has five museums within ten blocks of each other. Three of them are art museums. Remarkably, each one focuses on different subjects, so they have no overlap. Equally remarkably, each one has a building from a notable architect. I saw the Modern Art Museum first. It’s contained in a steel and concrete masterpiece from Tadao Ando, surrounded by a reflecting pool. Interior rooms have the white wall look de rigueur for newer art museums. ... read more






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