Raf made sure I was set for my next stop at Tangkoko Nature Reserve. I was reluctant to leave the warmth of great conversation and laughter at Cha Cha Resort (), but there always arrives a time to leave when you suffer the incurable pull of wanderlust. Raf and Reiko joined me in some comedic camera poses (I've kept my promise not to post them online), and soon I was waving goodbye from the boat. When the very kind driver picked me up, we talked about how my parents could handle me traveling as an only child and solo female traveler. He had an only daughter of his own whom he was obviously proud of and couldn't imagine letting her do such things. I explained that this was one subject where my parents, though probably worried ... read more

Part I Against many online reviews complaining of litter and plastic fish in this part of the Celebes Sea, I chose to go to Bunaken because of a trusted diver's recommendation. I've always found word-of-mouth or recommendations from good bloggers to be genuine and accurate guides even if different people draw diffierent conclusions about a place. Along those lines, I read through various Bunaken blogs to figure out my accommodation on the island, and chose Cha Cha Nature Resort based on laetitiaaroundtheworld's Bunaken blog. After this visit, I returned again. The following two or three blogs will be a combination of those visits. Reaching Cha Cha Nature Resort After contacting Raf and Reiko, the owners... read more

The sun is muted by the water into gradients of baby blue while darker sapphire obscures the ocean’s depths. I might be looking out for miles without exaggeration. Big turtles and white-tip sharks, one to two meters long, swim behind a hazy blue curtain, giving perspective on distance and visibility. I equalize my ears and sink lower, unable to take in every detail that vies for attention on the coral wall. Kaleidoscopes of fish flicker every which way. I'm in an otherworld on par with Dr. Seuss’s imagination. This is Sipadan, for the Big Stuff. If poetry takes physical form, surely, the ocean provides one of the most prosaic experiences. Sharp, crackling sounds travel through the water (4x the speed of sound in air). Every diver turns a different direction while trying to pinpoint the sound’s ... read more

After an unremarkable day exploring the city of Kinabalu in Borneo and its immorally gigantic rats, I open the door to my dorm and this random girl asks, as if discussing the weather, “Want to go river rafting tomorrow?” Padas River: Mud Rafting Annabelle, my new friend from the UK, and I are picked up by the Riverbug crew early next morning. After an hour or two, we transfer to a train. This rusty contraption has been running since the 19th century, and, following our guides, we roast our skin on the cargo platform. If you prefer, you can grab a seat in the car, but you'll lose the adventure. The rail tracks follow the river at a vertical angle giving us a view of a semi-truck’s skeletal remains in the muddied water. We toss jokes ... read more

The plane flies over islands outlined in turquoise rings and coasts over rolling, dark green hills into Medan City. Purchasing the $25 visa and clearing immigration takes longer than the hour-long flight. I try learning basic Bahasa Indonesia without success. It's a little intimidating walking around the small, dingy airport without a clue of the local language. There are no obvious tourists besides myself, and hungry looking taxi drivers everywhere. One approaches and asks, “Where are you going?” “Lake Toba,” I say. He rips me off at 200,000 rupiah, but I also didn't feel like bargaining, arguing, or searching for another ride. On my return trip, I’m charged 65,000rp in a nice air-conditioned taxi with no bargaining involved. Going rate seems to be 65-75,000rp. The Lizard King and Drinking Water: How to Reach Lake Toba I’m ... read more