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South America » Bolivia » Potosí Department » Uyuni March 30th 2006

In the middle of the Altiplano is the Salar de Uyuni, one of the biggest salt lakes on earth. I spent some days in the town with the same name visit the salt lake and to acclimatize to the high altitude conditions around there and the passes to come. With a group of mostly spanish speaking guys I had a guided tour of the lake. We drove in a run-down jeep across the extensive white, visited a salt producing family (Well, is more packing than producing, since the salt is already there. It just has to be dried and filled into plastik bags.), visited Isla de pescadores, a cactus island, had fun with salt crystals, and in the evening stoped for some pictures at the old train cementery. It was one of the best places I ... read more
Salt Lake Tour
Flamingos
Lamas

South America » Bolivia » La Paz Department » Copacabana March 30th 2006

So yeah when we last left it we were leaving Cuzco the next day... We´ll spare you the details of more sickness but suffice to say it´s happened but we´re ok!... Left Cuzco Saturday 25th. 8 hours to Puno. Hotel. Left Puno Sunday 26th. 3hours down Western coast of Lago Titicaca. Arrived at Bolivian border Sunday a.m. Was a bit of an experience, certainly doesn´t compare to the sour-faced jobsworthies at Heathrow immigration... Tumbled off the bus and stumbled towards a house / hut to get our ´exit´stamps for Peru. No signs, no checks, just a chain across the road. After crossing the border (which crosses the lake with Peru on the West and Bolivia on the East ish) the bus carried on to Copacabana where we stayed for 3 days. Copacabana is just a small ... read more
(In)migration
The border at Kasani
Copacabana


After nearly 6 weeks in Bolivia we were in our final destination before heading to Chile. Bolivia is right up there with Peru in the great experiences department as far as we are concerned, but it had one more up it's sleeve: the huge salt flats of Uyuni. We arrived from Potosi on what could only be described as a cosy bus, no insignificant thing as the journey takes pretty much all day. After hastily checking into our hostel of choice, the vastly overpriced Magia de Uyuni, Em and I literally dumped our bags and headed out of town. The sun was setting on the local train graveyard, and with it was fleeting an opportunity to take some interesting photos.... We made it, although you can be the judge of whether we succeeded! A wander around ... read more
Train graveyard at sundown
Salt collected and on it's way to be processed
The group on the last day, before leaving us at the Chilean border

South America » Bolivia March 28th 2006

Got home yesterday by 9pm, after a 27 hour odyssey of travel. Here’s a collective of what I spent in the first 45 minutes after stepping off the plane: Cab: 35 dollars Subway Sandwich: 4.50 Cat food/Litter: 5.75 Bottle of water: 2:00 Total: $47.25 or 378 Bolivianos. In the entire time I was in Bolivia, I spend in total 1,160 Bolivianos or approximately 4.40 Bvs per hour. I am now spending at a rate of 492 per hour, and I’m eating Subway for dinner! It is literally 100x more expensive in NYC. Bolivia might be one of the cheapest places on Earth. The average full meal costs 1- 2 bucks. Average beer 80 cents. Average cab ride, 70-90 cents. Internet access, 25 cents/hour. Blow Up Kit: 1 buck. Average night in a cheapie hostel, 2 bucks. ... read more


We have been trekking in the cordillera real for 4 days and it was stunning. We travelled in a car for about 4 hours out of La Paz and stopped at a tiny mud house and were told that we would have to camp there, we wouldn't be walking today, we would have to walk longer the 2nd day to make up time. The reason we couldnt start, was that our guide couldn't find any donkeys to rent- the donkeys were needed to carry our tents,all the food and cooking equipment. So we waited for them to arrive, thinking better to wait than struggle on with the stuff. It was just gone lunchtime and there was nothing to do, it was freezing too. Having never waited for donkeys before, we didn't know what to do with ... read more
lake
camp
lo and mie crossing the freezing river

South America » Bolivia » Oruro Department » Oruro March 28th 2006

I survived the 3650m descent, 64km down the world´s most dangerous road! We started on bitumen at 4760m in the freezing cold, and ended up in the tropics at 1100m... A fabulous ride, leaving our arms sore from bumping down the rocky road! We were lucky there were hardly any trucks to contend with, however, as there had been a landslide over part of the road (we made our way over the rocks carrying our bikes..). The day ended with a shower and lunch in a hotel overlooking the gorgeous valley and the hair-raising road we had ridden down... (Actually, it ended with me -who had been chatting to a lovely English girl Ruth the whole way home, exchanging travel stories - suddenly realising I was exhausted, but anyway being talked into going to buy and ... read more
At the top of the WMDR (World's Most Dangerous Road)
Looking back on the WMDR
Women carry their wares on their back in brightly coloured cloths

South America » Bolivia » La Paz Department » La Paz March 27th 2006

After I got back from Lake Titicaca I hung out in La Paz waiting for the approval to come from Santiago for my student visa. For a while. I had already gotten the approval in Bruxelles but skipped out because of maddening Belgian bureaucracy (19 days of waiting then Oh, sorry, no appointments for another 2 weeks. I left the next day from grey belgian 5-hour day winter for Peru. Call me crazy), so I applied for my visa after Izzy left, thinking it would be a fast approval. Nope... The thing about Chile is that they actually do things that first-world countries do except with third-world efficiency. Well. That was my impression from the consulate. After 2 months of being a gringo in south america, I was annoyed when the entire consular system of Chile ... read more

South America » Bolivia » Chuquisaca Department » Sucre March 27th 2006

I woke up on what was to be my last two days in Bolivia so looking forward to returning to La Paz so I could spend an entire day shopping for gifts for family and a charango for my cabin upstate, which has a small collection of unusual instruments. La Paz, in my not so extensive experience, is definitely the place to do your shopping. It was going to be a good day, as we were going by, get this, PLANE to La Paz. Not bus, not train, not car.Oddly, and at the time I thought luckily, today was the first cloudy day we had had. Completely overcast, but not raining. I figured as good a day to travel elsewhere as any. Aero Sur was our choice of airlines for the day, as it was really ... read more


San Pedro de Atacama, Chile We caught a Pullman del Sur bus from Santiago to Calama (20hrs overnight) for $30000p each for Salon Cama, downstairs on the bus, very comfortable. In Calama, we caught a TurBus bus to San Pedro de Atacama (fairly regular, about 1 hr trip, $1300p). The Atacama desert was extremely barren in places along the bus trip, sometimes absolutely nothing resembling life at all. San Pedro (2400m) is a nice little village in an oasis with adobe buildings everywhere. It has all the amenities a tourist could want but that also means the place is crawling with tourist. Still a very nice place to hang out for a few days, particularly if you are acclimitizing before heading up even higher. We did a good tour of the Valley of the Moon and ... read more
Bolivian customs office
Hot springs
Hotel Colorada (4300m)

South America » Bolivia » Beni Department » Rurrenabaque March 26th 2006

After arriving well early in Rurrenabaque ("Rurre" to the locals), we found ourselves a place to sleep and after a hearty breakfast we spent the rest of the morning in bed trying to recover from the journey in that meat grinder we mistook for a bus (see previous blog). In the afternoon we went out looking for an agency to take us on our next adventure. There are plenty of agencies to choose from, and they offer pretty much the same services and charge more or less the same price. The most popular trips entail spending 2 or 3 days either in The Jungle or in Las Pampas (literally The Flatlands). So our first challenge was deciding on which type of tour to go for. Las Pampas was described as a pleasant journey down the river ... read more
Squirrel Monkey - Mono Ardilla o Titi
Piranha fishing / Pescando pirañas
Sunrise in Las Pampas - Amanecer en Las Pampas




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