My first time in the Middle East was in the clear, dry light of Amman. I stayed in a small hotel in "downtown" Amman. The noise was constant, muezzins in the middle of the night, when sleep is deep. And then the desert all around, starting with Amman itself, all bright buildings on the hills, all made of yellow stones. And then the hills descending towards the Dead Sea. And then the flat desert plain towards the East. Desert people are straight. As if life could be reduced to a few absolute values, even they can lead you to your perdition. For me, all the Middle East is there. Time, fidelity (or rather, honesty), welcome, honour. These are values of the desert. Go back to the sea and you find another world. One returns to agitation.
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