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Middle East » Iran » South » Shiraz November 8th 2000

Today's assignment is an excursion to Perespolis, the old winter capital. The journey goes on dusty roads through sandy plains with scattered rugged mountains and cliffs along the sides. Most of the traffic consists of trucks and buses. There are plenty of interesting vintage types to observe, like the N40, Mercedes O302, O309 and L808. Any fellow nerds will know what I am talking about, you others are welcome to simply read on... Arriving at Peresepolis we are arriving in front of the remains of the main city gates. Although excited at first I am a bit let down by the general state of things. What remains of the city are battered pillars rising to the sky, flights of stairs and occasional big blocks of stone scattered around and imposing figures of stone looking down on ... read more
The city's new inhabitants
Persepolis city gate
Tomb in the mountainside

Middle East » Iran » South » Shiraz November 7th 2000

The first day in Shiraz, and also the time with a warm sun smiling in the sky. This does not in anyway prevent the fact that I am incredibly tired and have a hard time opening my eyes. As I am drifting in and out of sleep I keep hearing a lot of faint voices in my head, and as I start to come around I realize that this is in fact coming from the real world. There is apparently a school nearby, the song of dozens of children singing is carried in through the window, apparently some kind of morning congreagation is taking place outside. We greet the lovely weather by going for a drive to the green paradise of Eram Park, an oasis perfect for relaxation. I run around with my camera chasing birds ... read more
Plantations at Eram Park
The classic Paykan sedan
Busy streets downtown

Middle East » Iran » North » Tehran November 6th 2000

The last day in Tehran for a while, we will be transferring by plane to Shiraz in the afternoon. The morning is spent visiting one of the Shah's excessively decorated palaces in the hills. Big airy halls with some rather decadent furniture and very large Persian carpets in the rooms. We are joined by crowds of school children out on tour, and the young children either look at you shyly or, if they are more courageous take the opportunity shouting "I love you!" from a safe distance. The next destination is the complete opposite and immensely to my liking. We drive into a neighbourhood with smaller houses and narrow streets to visit the house of Ruhollah Khomeini, the humble place where he used to live and see his guests, as well as the nearby building where ... read more
Another grey day on town
Windwalker?
With Iman at Mehrabad Int'l

Middle East » Iran » North » Tehran November 5th 2000

Today's weather is cloudy and a bit dull. We spend all day sightseeing various cultural and even more cultural sights of Tehran. We've been around a couple of museums with exhibitions of pottery, historical utensils, statues or parts of statues, all in various stages of decay. It's not my cup of tea really, although I found the exquisite and decorative Qurans to be quite beautiful. After having successfully learnt to say "good morning" I realize that any further development in Farsi will be requiring some dedication on my part. Farzaneh explains the mysteries of the language; it seems that in order to simplify things for the curious westerner, the written language completely omits vowels, instead fusing characters together into syllabels that link into each other and modify to tie together to form different words. Did I ... read more
Ancient VCR programming manual?
A day in the park
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Middle East » Iran » North » Tehran November 4th 2000

It is with great anticipation that I raise from the couch on which I have been sleeping restlessly for a few hours. Fortunately it is still such an early hour that my mind is rather numb, and I don't have to get all worked up about it all just yet. I pack up my belongings and leave the small flat I have been borrowing in Stockholm before moving on to Arlanda airport. When entering the departure hall and locating the proper counters the first thing I notice is that there is a long and winding queue in front of the Iran Air check in desks. The second thing I notice is the impressive amount of luggage carried by my fellow passengers; there is an obscene amount of trolleys stacked with heavy plastic suitcases, cardboard boxes, improvised ... read more
My room at the Laleh Hotel
Practice your farsi when you least expect it

Middle East » Israel September 1st 2000

Geo: 31.9194, 35.462EilatRamat Gan, Jersalem, Eilat (Negrew desert, Jordan border, Egypt border)... read more

Middle East » Israel » West Bank » Bethlehem July 2nd 2000

Hello my fellow travelers! This is the second and final post I'll do about my trip to Israel and Palestine in July 2000. The last post covered my time in Israel while this post covers my time in Palestine. We didn't (as far as I remember) venture into the Gaza Strip but we did go to the West Bank to visit Bethlehem and Wadi Qelt. Ownership of this area is complicated to say the least, as it is for the whole region. Nominally the West Bank is under control of the Palestinian Authorities but it's still occupied by Israel for safety reasons. There is much that can be said for both parties but I personally do understand Israel's concern. After all, when they released control completely of the Gaza strip in 1995 all they really got ... read more
Minaret
Protest
Beautiful View

Middle East » Israel » Jerusalem District » Jerusalem July 1st 2000

Hello my fellow travelers! This is the first of two posts I'll make about a trip to Israel and Palestine in July 2000 that I did together with my high school as a part of our sociology class. This post covers my time in Israel. The tension was very tangible back then and just the following month after our visit, on September 28 the Al-Aqsa Intifada was proclaimed by Yassir Arrafat and violence erupted once more and lasted until March 8th 2005. I remember watching on the news as rockets hit Tel Aviv where we had live just months before. It all started as Ariel Sharon made a visit to the Temple Mount, a disputed place. That's how little was needed to set the violence of again with 4.000 dead as a result. For us it ... read more
Courtyard
Covered in Mud
Nancy's Relatives and Me

Middle East » United Arab Emirates » Dubai April 24th 2000

My last two days in Dubai were spent on friendly conversation, good meals, and walks on the local streets. On Monday, to my surprise, we went to watch John play hockey. Dubai had an indoor winter arena with rinks and a facility with a short ski hill! Perhaps this could be considered the the hot-climate equivalent of heated swimming pools in cold climates. On Tuesday we visited the Bastakiya , the old town where historically merchants lived. The fine towers and houses were being carefully restored as an outdoor museum, encouraging visitors to use their imaginations. Not far away, we went to the Dubai Museum , which I had visited earlier by mistake. The walls and turrets from the original fort spoke to the security historically necessary to ... read more
Mosque in Deira
Bur Dubai from Abra station in Deira
Abra station

Middle East » United Arab Emirates » Sharjah April 23rd 2000

Today was close to perfect! I got up early enough to get a ride with Peggy and John to Sharjah to see the Central Souk . This was a huge conglomeration of covered-shops, i.e., totally indoors but not a coordinated mall. Its design respected the old-style souk, if you consider that a souk consists of shops with a covering built over the street. The Central Souk was like a set of strip mall shops that shared common parking, and a covered central walkway – two storeys high. Two long buildings were joined by second storey walkways. The whole was decorated in an Iranian-style, blue-painted tile design. But I didn’t go there directly. After dropping Peggy at DWC (Dubai Women’s College), John drove into Sharjah. We conducted a mumbling debate about which coffee sh... read more
Vessels in Creek
Sharjah Fish Market
Central Blue Souk, Sharjah




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