I'd cycled through the Lofoten islands before, some years back. I KnEw I would encounter 480 hours of continuous daylight in the 20 days I planned to cycle and camp there. Still, I was baffled to watch, as it neared midnight, the sun refuse to set. It would head for the horizon only to boomerang its way back up, as if changing its mind. Though I could only watch this play out on the rare cloudless day... ...the clouds and the rain. The rain and my not!waterproof tent. These were my constant companions, my first three days in Lofoten. A recipe for a disastrous trip. Yet I found myself smiling and laughing as the rain splashed down on my gray helmet, down my yellow raincoat, down my speeding blue bike. Cycling on the bottom edge of
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