cycling where the sun refused to set


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Europe » Norway » Northern Norway » Lofoten Islands
July 14th 2006
Published: August 19th 2006
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moskenes
I'd cycled through the Lofoten islands before, some years back. I KnEw I would encounter 480 hours of continuous daylight in the 20 days I planned to cycle and camp there. Still, I was baffled to watch, as it neared midnight, the sun refuse to set. It would head for the horizon only to boomerang its way back up, as if changing its mind. Though I could only watch this play out on the rare cloudless day...

...the clouds and the rain. The rain and my not!waterproof tent. These were my constant companions, my first three days in Lofoten. A recipe for a disastrous trip. Yet I found myself smiling and laughing as the rain splashed down on my gray helmet, down my yellow raincoat, down my speeding blue bike. Cycling on the bottom edge of mountains that dwarfed me, with only the flat endless sea on the other side, I was as far as I could possibly be from the concrete jungle of my current home, Shanghai. And rain or no rain, I cycled on, with the wind on my back rustling everything, Everything, in its path and around me - all the trees and fallen leaves and stubborn birds. Everything, that is, except me, as I was accomplice to the wind, and we flew, smooth as silk, kilometer after kilometer as if inch after inch.


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leaving henningsvaerleaving henningsvaer
leaving henningsvaer

worth the detour
swimming cloudsswimming clouds
swimming clouds

b/w A and Moskenes
waves and their silent audiencewaves and their silent audience
waves and their silent audience

past ramberg. reminds me of a story about a little wave frolicking under the sun, teasing the fish, surfing, until it looked up and saw the waves before it, all crashing onto the shore. A passing big wave saw the little wave's horror, and asked it what the matter was. You don't understand, the little wave said, we're all soon to crash!, we're all doomed! No, it is you who doesn't understand, the big wave said gently; we're not waves, but part of the ocean.


fredvang
sand and snow sand and snow
sand and snow

nearing fiskebol
parking lotparking lot
parking lot

svolvaer
worth the looong ride uphillworth the looong ride uphill
worth the looong ride uphill

detour approaching leknes
midnight peacemidnight peace
midnight peace

end of the road: A. Looking back, I remember the anxiety that kept me up the night before my flight to Lofoten. It was my first lone cycle tour, and I was scared that I'd lose my way, that I couldn't pull it off, that it would all end in tears. But b/c I was scared and b/c it was a first, I had to do it. And like all the firsts I've done that've initially terrified me, it has strengthened my belief that anything and everything's possible, one step at a time.


22nd August 2006

Wow
What a beautiful area. I have always wanted to go where the sun does not set in the summer.
22nd August 2006

Great photos! Good you are brave to travel alone. Lorenza
11th September 2006

Gorgeous pictures!
What beautiful pictures-- sounds like wonderful time.

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