Our 4th day here was a Thursday like no other. Breakfast, as has become our routine, was at 6:30am in the casita of the nuns, Sisters Gloria, Paulita and Mirtala. The nuns are great. They like an occasional beer, will try whisky, add copious amounts of sugar to their coffee and are cheery and mostly full of jokes. They also put salt on their fruit, but apparently that's normal here. At 7:30 we had an appointment with Padre Juan Maria (early 70s, Belgian) down at the church. Instead we met Padre Rogelio (late 70s, Belgian, tall, spindly, wise but unsteady), and Padre Juan Gerardo (40s, Guatemalan, greying, cheeky and lively). They pick up a battered bag each and off we go in the pick-up to a mass they're giving in the hills. At the edge of
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