Like two knights dueling for the hand of a fair maiden, so has Sir Mexico risen to battle for the affection I so recently declared for Guatemala. From the first real encounter with Mexico, at the bus station in Tapachula, I should have realized I had just entered completely different territory, as the terminal was clean, orderly, computerized, efficient, and had toilet paper and soap in the bathrooms. However, after surviving a nail-biting journey to get there .... fights breaking out on the bus to Tecun Uman, warnings about the danger of crossing the border at that hour, missing the last
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