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Published: April 5th 2005
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In travel, as in art, as in life, it is the small details that etch themselves into your heart and mind. The simple things are the ones that create a smile that radiates from inside all the way to my uplifted face that is staring at the sky thanking the heavens for dear sweet life.
That is the feeling of Antigua.
I swear I woke up with a smile on my face this morning, completely fascinated by the warmth of my blanket and the quiet of the dawn. The crisp cool air was a sensation I haven't experienced in a while, and it made me reminisce on falling leaves of various shades of orange and red, of apple orchards, down comforters, Norah Jones tunes, and wearing sweaters. This golden morning just got better and better as I realized how grateful I was for a bathroom with soap and towels in it, for a breakfast of fresh tropical fruits that I would never have at home, for a rooftop terrace where the sun and Guatemalan coffee warmed me simultaneously, and for the majestic view of the volcanoes rising out of the clouds.
As much as I have loved the
rest of Central America and tried to downplay the beauty of Guatemala in my own mind as "overrated" by all the tourists, there is just no denying the magical, mystical qualities of the landscapes and the visual feast created by the colorful fabrics, markets, and handicrafts of the people. Antigua is a photographer's dream come true; every cobblestoned street is filled with picturesque views of a city in a perpetual state of spring, weathered and charming buildings in every shade of the rainbow, and the bright intricate designs of the Mayan textiles that jump out in contrast against the jet black silky hair of their owners. The storefronts provide a cosmopolitan smorgasbord, with Mayan traditional medicine shops, European-style cafes and coffee shops, Indonesian restaurants, expensive jade and turquoise jewelry stores, local mom-and-pop ice cream stands, Irish pubs, Spanish schools, and salsa clubs all content to stand side by side with each other in a sort of orderly chaos.
However, as marvelous as Guatemala and Mexico surely are, I can't help but feel the itch to simply return to Utila. Four weeks and two diving certifications after arriving on this simple island, where I first wondered how anyone could spend
more than a week on, I left in tears on the morning ferry, leaving behind more than just the Caribbean sunshine. The people I met and the memories I made were some of the most fun of my entire life thus far, and I only stayed as long as I did because everyday I planned on leaving someone else would talk me into staying longer. I hope to go back and do the divemaster program before all the staff divemasters and instructors I became friends with leave for more Oriental waters and I have a job waiting for me at the ever musical CocoLoco whenever I do.
I arrived in Antigua last night around 7 pm after a long day of transit that included 4 transfers and an hour wait at the Honduran immigration office, where I batted my teary eyelashes out of a $62 fine for overstaying my 30 day visa. A girl I was in Utila with, Andrea, traveled with me to Copan Ruinas, Honduras on Sunday, where we dined like queens and enjoyed hot showers for the first time in months. Yesterday she ended up at the doorstep of my hotel in Antigua again, so we
went out for dinner and a walk around town last night and have been taking in the simple pleasures of Antigua all day today. With just over two weeks left on my trip, I'm torn as to how to spend them. Having intended to stay in Honduras a maximum of 10 days, I let the charm of diving and island life in Utila lure me into making it my longest stay yet. Having had my shoes stolen at the full moon party on the beach, I decided that going to El Salvador at this point would be a shame, since I don't intend to do the volcano hikes I would like to do in flip flops. So I came up here to Guatemala and now have to decide whether to spend the rest of the time exploring Guatemala and overnight bus up to Mexico City in two weeks, or if I should try to take in some of Mexico while I still can, since this is my third visit to Guatemala and I have seen nothing more of Mexico than Tijuana. Those of you who know me and my indecisive nature will appreciate my plea: Any suggestions are welcome!
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anonymous
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Best Yet!
This is your best entry so far! You have become so poetic! Have fun Jen...and I will keep wondering why I am doing what I am doing. - Manu