Blogs from Southern Nations Region, Ethiopia, Africa

After hours on the narrow two track 4x4 trail, dashing in and out of dry washes, spinning across the flat expanse that is punctuated only by the towering termite mounds, we roll into Murelle, one of three tribal villages of the Karo people. We are high above a massive bend of the Omo River with a view that stretches forever. I gasp at the incredible view, thinking ‘these people know the old saying - location, location, location’. But before I can even let my breath out from that same gasp, the 4x4 is surrounded by the people of the village. Soft, understated voices insistently implore, ‘my photo, 3 Birr’. Again and again. Thats about 20 US cents, one fifth of a US dollar. And there you have the heart of the dilemma that the rich cultural ... read more

THIRSTY IN ETHIOPIA...THE BEERS. I've told you about our "Coffee Tour" of Ethiopia...in the North...in the South...and also in the Centre...served in small cups, black, strong, clean, one sugar...not muddy. "Did you perchance try the amber fluid...of Ethiopia..? you ask. As it turns out, Mike brews his own beer...in Toowoomba, Queensland...so one assumes he is partial to "a cool one...or two." And so it was in Ethiopia. Being a patriotic Aussie...prepared "to take one for the team"...well...I decided to join him. Before Ethiopia...in Mali...we'd be watching T.V. in our hotel in Bamako of the Queensland floods...horrified at the devastation in Mike & Ros' home town. Mike didn't talk about it much then. He said his house should be fine...it being on a hill. He was concerned for his community...as we all were. ... read more

ETHIOPIA...Ensete Culture...THE DORZE T'was quiet a climb up into the Guge Mountains...dirt roads all afternoon then up & up. Then at the top there is a plateau...like its own little region... rolling green hills up here... bamboo... views of Lake Abaya...isolated from the lowlands below. But dangers lurk at every corner...as we zig-zag up... "Watch out ...it's a rump-shaker" someone screams. Hit the brakes... squeeze past..."That was close!" Next corner twice as many... another close call... phew. Welcome to the home of the highland Dorze people... Orthodox Christian... own language... predominately farmers... exponents of the Ensete Culture. And the rump-shakers?...young children...gymnasts all... somersaulting, gyrating, shaking their booty... hands outstretched... demanding benevolence. Was late afternoon so straight to the ma... read more

ETHIOPIA...Jumping with the HAMAR All roads lead to Turmi...but only if you are heading that way...I surmise...but if you travel in another direction...well it may go anywhere...but there. "That's a Desert Rose...I've seen those in Central Australia...but how can they be here...in Southern Ethiopia?" So Mike was given the task of finding out...as we scoured the scrub for others...and then we saw it...a substantial specimen...shapely...well endowed... golden firm trunk...lightly clad in pink flower...let's stop and take a photo? Look left...the Desert Rose...but I can only see the lustrous brown Desert Rose leaning on the stick gate opposite... shapely...well endowed... firm breasted... clad only in a cow skin skirt...a smiling young mother...a child on one leg...another wide eyed and gazing. So Mike & I photograph the pink Desert Rose...then... read more

ETHIOPIA...Stretched Lips & AK47s...THE MURSI 25 January 2011 was an important day in Jinka, capital of the South Omo Zone of the Southern Nations, Nationalities & Peoples Regional State...not because we passed through that day on our way to see the Mursi...but because the President of Ethiopia was in town...for the 13th Annual Pastoralists Day Celebrations... and the news he brought will have far reaching consequences for the exotic tribes of the Lower Omo Valley. The President had cancelled all pre-booked accommodation for Western tourists in Jinka, so we suddenly had nowhere to stay...ended up in Konso, a few hours drive away...so early start that day...breakfast in Key Afar...with Ethiopian coffee...after all we are on a "coffee tour" of Ethiopia...soldiers everywhere...then onto Jinka...possibly my favourite name for a destination. Flags everywhere...there'... read more