An Australian who has been overseas for over 13 years, I've lived in England, Israel, Ireland, France and New York City (I have a hard time thinking of NYC as America when it's so different to the rest of the country). I like to think that I work to live, not live to work and I've always a lengthy list of places I want to visit in my head at all times - which is basically anywhere I haven't been...
update:
After over ten months travelling in Africa, I am back in wintry Europe. I lost all my notes on Ethiopia, Sudan and part of Egypt when I was robbed but thankfully still have my photos and hope to sort and add them in the next few weeks, thus ending the trip of a lifetime. Thanks to all those who wrote or read; it's the first time I've attempted blogging and feedback was definitely the motivation to keep me going.
January 18, 2013
A desk is a dangerous place from which to watch the world ~ John le Carre
Thursday September 27 After two nights in Uganda's capital Kampala, we drove north to Kibale for a night and then onto Kisoro. Lying in bed at Gorilla's Backpackers, it's like the night before Christmas when you're a child. The excitement and anticipation mixed with relief that it's finally here. Except it's not Christmas. It's far, far better than that. I'm going to meet the mountain gorillas tomorrow and I. Can't. Wait. Well I can wait, actually. I've waited a really long time so a few more hours is okay. But at 6am tomorrow we'll drive an hour and a half to the check in point, be split into groups and begin the trek to the family we're going to visit. No bright colours, no flash photography, no standing taller than daddy gorilla and definitely no looking
... read moreSaturday September 29 I took no photos in Kigale. There was so much to digest after the obviously heartbreaking Genocide Memorial and reminders were everywhere in the shape of amputees, some begging. Men on crutches with one leg. A woman with only one finger. Boys whose ages I can match to children I know with only one arm. I felt myself unconsciously cringing at the sight, tears welling in my eyes that I had to rapidly blink away. Our driver, William, tells us as we drive over a bridge that the river below us is where bodies were thrown. I pass boys playing football on a dirt field and wonder how old they are. Who they are and what their childhood was like. I would've been in my mid teens when Rwanda descended into chaos. I
... read moreSaturday September 22 Oh good God, what a day. Too tired to write yesterday, I'm in bed this evening attempting to write before I nod off with my phone in my hands which will then land on me as I lose my grip. Amusingly, I've watched Denise do it with her Kindle (which hurts more). We left Meserani at 8am and stopped in at the Cultural Centre again to see their art gallery. There's some unbelievable pieces in there but sadly most of us seem to have expensive taste and no one was willing to chip in for the $6,000 painting I wanted. Sigh. Suse had the cab tilted when we wandered out, changing a part and waiting for it to be brought from the workshop and we were soon on our way, making it down
... read moreTuesday 18 September The problem with doing so much, being tired and no longer disciplined with my writing means I'm forgetting stuff. Grr. Suse met us after the ferry from Zanzibar and we headed straight towards Arusha, camping en route in a great campsite with a tiny sign. I meant to talk to them 'bout that. We stopped in Arusha, mentally spent money on some fabulous dust collectors at the Cultural Heritage Centre (the guys are great and let us hold ridiculously expensive Tanzanite and explained the different properties. Embarrassing when your nails are so filthy) and then drove to Meserani where we would finally meet the infamous Ma and BJ before seeing the Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater at long last. Meserani Snake Park Ma and BJ built Snake Park from the ground up in 1993
... read moreMonday September 17 I've realised I'm falling back into my old writing style when I write days after the event. If I write on the same day, it seems to read differently. Go figure. Sorry folks! The alarm went off at 5am and even though all I had to do was dress and take my bag from the truck, I was flustered and running late when the tuk tuks arrived to take us to the first of two ferrys. The first is more of a barge that carries us, tuk tuks and all, across to the city. A short ride down the road brings us to the crowded ferry terminal though the noise is minimal. People are still sleepy. Tickets are paid for and handed out, weak black tea and coffee is tasted and discarded and
... read moreWednesday September 12 Yesterday we crossed into Tanzania and with that, the six month mark. Conversations are starting to change their tune and focus more on what we'll be doing after this trip ends (oh, which looks like it'll be in Tunisia. Yay!). Some have jobs waiting for them, others will need to find work and a lucky few will continue to travel. For some time now, indeed since Ghana before Ben and Steph left, we have known that Suse was offered a trip through South America, beginning next September. It incorporates every country on the continent and obviously appealed to us for not only that reason, but because eight of us are interested and Suse would be taking us. I figure I'd find work for six months, go home to Oz for my cousin's wedding
... read moreThursday September 6 All day we chased the sun. Leaving at 06:30 we chased it high into the sky and then all afternoon until it set around 18:00. It's funny how much quicker it seems to rise at dawn and fall as it sets and if you're not ready with the camera, it's a whole 24 hours until your next chance... ---------- Monday September 10 We spent three nights at Kande Beach on the shores of Lake Malawi, followed by two more nights further north at Chitimba. While four worked their butts off in an effort to complete the PADI certification (they stayed at Kande one extra day so as not to spend their stay in Zanzibar doing it there), the rest of us perfected the art of relaxing. Okay so four went out to the
... read moreSaturday September 1 It's the third evening of a five night stay in Livingstone, Zambia and although The Cough is back (thought I was on the mend after Round One but I've seemingly picked it up again in Round Two), it's been surreal so far. Not only have I white water rafted the 'mighty Zambezi', I've survived. Yes, fancy that. That was followed by an unexpected ride in a jet boat, a rather sedate Booze Cruise and a drum lesson! I was so tired by 9pm that I was unable to construct sentences! Then today it was another early start and I spent the morning with lions and this arvo with white rhino in the smallest of Zambia's national parks which I think all that went agreed is the best guided walk we've done on the
... read moreTuesday August 28 We've just spent a most amazing two nights in the Okavango Delta. I loved, loved, loved it and the time spent in the mokoro is some of the most relaxing hours I've ever spent. Mekoro (plural of mokoro) are traditional boats carved out of a single tree. Ours were of the less traditional kind (fibreglass) that are more common these days but I did see a couple of wooden ones, lined with hay. They each came equipped with a 'poler' who has a wooden pole four to five metres long and uses it to propel us through the water by pushing off the river bed and as a rudder to change direction. After a three hour trip that wasn't a race (though we were definitely racing), Denise and I arrived last to find
... read moreAaaaand we're back! Thursday August 23 Hello people! I'm back! Sorry for the silence but I've had a week's break in Cape Town and barely touched my phone or looked at - let alone sorted - my photos. It's weird being back on the truck - and sleeping in a tent after a week of luxury. Heated floors in the bedroom and bathroom? Yes, please! Room overlooking Lion's Head and Table Mountain? Sure, why not! Clothes that don't have holes in them that I've chosen for style rather than comfort and practicality? Don't mind if I do! Cape Town was wonderful and although we didn't get to go shark cage diving due to weather and then availability, we did hire a car and drive to Hermanus (where we saw dolphins in the dismal weather!), make it
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